300 Series Piper Cub Build

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300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby kittyfritters » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:45 pm

Despite all the other commitments I have, I am determined to get my own entry for this year's "G" Challenge in on time. I chose the Piper Cub simply because it was a model in this series I had not built. I barely have time to post this since the entry has to be in by Midnight on Monday, and I have to report for jury duty on Monday, but I have the build pics, so...

It is almost a straight out-of-the-box build. The only changes I made were the removable cowl, incidence locating pins for the wings (like on the new kits), moving the motor peg forward one bay, a lighter tail wheel, and an all colored tissue covering job. There will be no paint on the model.

I put a former at the front of the cowl with some blocking around the thrust button hole between the former and the front of the cowl. There are four braces extending back to a former at the rear of the cowl. A box key locates the cowl.
The cowl former and the front of former B1 are covered with 1/64" plywood and the cowl is retained by a couple of 1/8" diameter rare earth magnets.

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Checking to make sure that everything lines up before covering provided a chance to do the almost obligatory "bones" shot.

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The frame is covered, wet, with Esaki tissue. I have quite a supply of yellow and blue tissue because I like to do models of 1930's Army Air Corps planes. The color scheme is right off the box cover. The bottom of the fuselage is covered with blue tissue. The blue side flashes will be applied dry as trim after the fuselage has it's first coat of Krylon because if applied wet, it will turn green with the yellow tissue under it. Then the fuselage will get another Krylon misting. Yes, the struts are not painted but covered with tissue.

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Here is the plastic cowl being covered with a single piece of wet Esaki tissue pulled and stretched around it. The excess is trimmed after it dries.

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Anyway, back to work. I'll post the finished pictures before I fly it on Sunday morning.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby krob » Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:02 am

Any tips for covering the cowling like that? How do you get it so tight on such a curved surface? I'd like to do that because painting the plastic never quite gives the same color as the tissue.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby ADW 123 » Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:35 pm

thats a pretty plane. nice work.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby kittyfritters » Mon Oct 31, 2011 12:43 pm

Here are a couple of it finished enough to test.

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There is no paint on it at all. It is completely colored Esaki tissue except for the decal on the cowl and the ChartPak tape for the control surface and door outlines. (Yes, forgot to put a piece of white tissue where the decal goes.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby wingnut » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:16 pm

If I may ask, what method do you use to glue tissue details on top of tissue?
not your average nut.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby ADW 123 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:34 pm

is the prop not the one that comes in the kit?
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby kittyfritters » Mon Oct 31, 2011 7:29 pm

No, this is not the prop that came with this old stock, die cut kit. It is the seven inch prop that comes in the 200 series and the new 300 series kits.
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby scigs30 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:56 am

Howard, Looks great, what glue did you use for the tissue glued to the plastic cowl?
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Re: 300 Series Piper Cub Build

Postby kittyfritters » Tue Nov 01, 2011 12:57 pm

All the tissue was attached with Uhu purple glue stick. That is all I use to attach tissue. My wife is so allergic to dope that I can't even use it out in the garage.

The Beaver and Porter prototypes in the "preview" post are all tissue jobs done with Uhu gluestick also.

http://balsamodels.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1856&p=8643&hilit=300+Series+Preview#p8643
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