Question about building using low-odor supplies

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Question about building using low-odor supplies

Postby rjdelisi » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:40 pm

Greetings,
I've been building static Guillows kits for several years, always using dope to seal the wood, attach and seal tissue. Recently moved to an apartment where the dope odor has become an issue. I've tried using white glue to seal the wood and attach the tissue, and I'm satisfied with that. After shrinking the tissue, do I understand that some of you folks seal the tissue with Krylon Acrylic spray? Also, I've tried to locate UHU purple glue stick, but can't find it anywhere. Is there another type/brand that will work acceptably well? I'd also like to learn about any other odor-free tricks or techniques the builders on this site might share.

Thanx!

Richie D
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Re: Question about building using low-odor supplies

Postby kittyfritters » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:33 pm

The 3M or Elmer's permanent glue sticks work as well. Since they go on white it is just not as easy to see where you have put them when applying glue to a frame. Note: I bought a new Uhu glue stick a couple of days ago and now all the Uhu glue sticks say "washable" on the label. I suppose that there have been complaints from mothers of children using them in schools. Use a permanent glue stick for tissue on models if you apply the tissue wet.

I have been experimenting with a product called Armstrong Shine Keeper in place of dope or Krylon fixative to fix the tissue. It is an acrylic emulsion used to restore shine to "no wax" flooring. So far, I have had excellent results with it. It has lower odor than the Krylon and there is no apparent problem with using it indoors. A 1/2 gallon bottle of it costs $15.00 at Home Depot or Lowe's...a lot cheaper than dope or Krylon fixative. I have used it on Esaki, domestic tissue and silkspan. It can be applied by brush or air brush and seems to require fewer coats to fill the tissue than Krylon, and especially on silkspan. One coat seems adequate on Esaki. It has a load of water in it and the tissue will sag alarmingly when the first coat is applied but it will come back drumhead tight when dry. Since all my projects, lately, have had all colored tissue markings, lines, and insignia, I have not yet tried to air brush over Shine Keeper with acrylic paints or inks so I cannot speak to how well it takes paint.

Building models in an apartment can be a problem. I hope this helps.

Howard
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