covering

[Bill Gaylord]

thanks Bill. Thats what I do, but on rubber powered theres no servo , etc, and that clay is horrible. ...

I thought you were discussing electric rc flight and not rubber:

i am planning on powered flight, Im using an ares 4:1 gearer motor, and a 3 in 1 ESC, and 2 servo combo receiver. I want to use elevator, and ailerons. should I sheet it all, or just the parts that need to be stronger. also; why are all these Guillows kits so tail heavy, and is there an approved method to reduce tail weigh. I did a rubber powered cub kit 303 24", and had to add 1oz. to the nose, but it flies good.

Thats what I do
Cool, you also build the "all gear forward" Guillows planes!
Can you post photos of this work? Love to see it. We don't see much rc conversion work here.

I imagine something like this:

[davidchoate]

that photo helped alot. i love the firewall mounted servos. What was the final weight, and what motor did u use. thanks. a picture is worth a million words!!

[Phugoid]

I read somewhere theyre tail heavy cause of the need to strengthen the fuselage due to the rubber motor forces.

....erm no, whoever wrote that knew nothing about rubber powered free flight.

As was said previously in the real aircraft there's a bloody great big lump of metal in the front, so the proportions are to balance that out, and thus for rubber power you end up with noseweight, another reason for going for a nice high winger with a little engine as the basis of your first model.

As for strength, Some of the models I have built up to 22" span have four longerons each 1/16" and that's it. those, the tissue and the uprights act as shear panels and resist the torque.

Andrew

[shawn32671]

Bill Gaylord...whats your problem and why do you feel the need to continue bashing me here?

[David Lewis]

For a small flying model, you can use 2 micrometre (um) thick mylar, which is stronger and lighter than Esaki Jap tissue, as well as waterproof. It does have to be painted, however, because it's clear plastic, or you can use 2 um aluminized mylar when modelling polished aluminum aircraft. I covered my Cessna 170 (kit #302) with it. Another option is Risteen MicroLite pre-painted heat-activated adhesive mylar. Here is a table of weights:

2 um clear mylar - 2.2 g/m^2 (grams per square metre)
2 um aluminized myalr - 2.6 g/m^2
Risteen MicroLite - 10 to 12 g/m^2
Esaki Jap tissue - 12.5 g/m^2
Esaki Jap tissue doped - 17 g/m^2 approx

[DenisCullinan]

QUOTE: Postby davidchoate » Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:39 am
i know my 109 only has a16and1/2" wing, buy
t is it better to sheet it with 1/32 balsa, or use silk span? i think that tisssue paper they give in the small kits is just too weak. also I found out they dont make colored dope any more. what should I use instead?

Dare Hobby has a great selection of colored dope. Go to http://www.darehobby.com/accessories/dope-colored.htm