Building/Flying Kit 904 Skyraider

[WIDDOG]

Thanks John. I agree with you following all the advice I received from members of this Forum really makes a top notch model. Once again I thank everyone for the great advice. I will post, on my next post, a list of all the advice/materials I used. This is a great hobby. I love writing, reading and building/flying Guillow's airplanes.

[duk774]

That was a l-o-n-g flight WIDDOG! Nice video...although there for a few I thought you'd go into the trees
Great job...Great looking aircraft!

Keep flying,
Bill

[WIDDOG]

http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/ is where I ordered my supplies.

Balsa sticks 11 3/4 x 1/20 sq 12 per pack. Order code BA101-M
" Sticks 11 3/4 x 1/16 x 1/8
" Sheets 1/20 x 3 x 36 A/B Grain 5 lbs Peck Contest Balsa PCB050AB5 I used 1 and 1/4 sheets per model.
Basswood 1/16 x 3 x 36 sheet.
Propeller 6 inch Peck Polymer.
Rubber Peck Polymer Super Sport 1/8 inch and 3/16 inch.
900 Series Kit.

Wal Mart.

White Glue
Wood Glue
Rubber Cement
Super Glue Loctite.
Domestic Tissue white
Pledge (Future) Floor Shine
Craft Acrylic Paint
Paint Brushes
Cutting Mat, Pins , Sandpaper

Samurai Shark knife sharpener. I use this a lot to sharpen my hobby knife blades

Michael's

Modeling Clay
They have wood there as well

[WIDDOG]

Thanks David that means a lot to me coming from a builder like yourself!

Anyway I think the answer here to a lot of the questions is to use CBW (Contest Balsa Wood). The CBW is not only lighter than the kit wood it is stronger as well. Also it doesn't warp as easily as the kit wood.

My method of covering.
1. I have my Guillow's How To Build and Fly A Balsa Model Airplane Booklet handy.
2. 50/50 White Glue and Water to attach the Tissue.
3. Spray bottle to shrink tissue without getting "Stress Wrinkles"
4. Two coats of Undiluted Acrylic Pledge Future Floor Shine to seal the tissue.
5. I make a color photo copy of the decal sheet on my printer. I than tape a layer of tissue paper on the print out and reprint.
6. I cut out the tissue decals and position on the model. I very carefully brush on a coat of Floor Shine and seal/attach the decal.

[WIDDOG]

Trimming not that I'm really any good at this art. However, This build is about how a Intermediate Skill Level pilot does it so here goes nothing.

To start with I put my fingers on the wings as close as I can to the balance point and lift the plane up by those points. I try to get a "Feel" for the model. See how the wings act and stuff. I add clay if needed to get her close to balance. My Skyraider required no balancing clay at this point.

Next I take the "Recommended" rubber motor (36" of 3/32" two loops) and load that motor into the model. I let the model hang from the propeller unit and hand wind in some turns. This braids the motor and shortens it up. Than hand wind in 100 turns and launch in my backyard. I try to watch the flight and balance and trim it out some. When I get it to do a smooth glide on 100 winds I take to the park. At the park I will stretch wind in 300 turns and see what happens. Than 500 turns and so on. The Skyraider "Torque rolled on 300 winds. I tried (24" of 3/32 one loop) not enough power. I than tried 24" of 1/8" one loop) I started to get some decent glides. I increased the length to x 1.50 and got about 3 circle flights out of the model. I than tried x 2 length motor. Nothing not enough power at x 2 length. I than tried x 2 length of 3/16" thick rubber and wow. Somehow I ended up with a small piece of balancing clay on the right wing. Trim tabs are probably better but whatever. Clay seemed to work.

[WIDDOG]

Here is a video of a super good modeler stretch winding. Also even the best modeler has to trim flight.

http://youtu.be/KqkX96anx-Q

Also a picture of my winding stooge. As you can see I made my stooge out of a tool box. I use a good 10:1 winder that I use a combination of counting and feel to get max winds.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[WIDDOG]

There are still some people out there wondering should I spend the money on ordering Rubber Motor Winder, Rubber and Propellers. Answer YES.

Some people are wondering if they will get the use/money out of the gear. I feel that this hobby actually saves me money. I mean yes there is start up costs and yes the rubber needs to be replenished. However, Honestly this hobby is inexpensive especially if you look at hobbies like Model Railroading.

For rubber I would recommend 1/4 lbs. box of 3/32, 1/8 and 3/16 inch thick rubber. Note I keep mine in the refrigerator.
for winders I recommend a 10:1 ratio UK made winder.
for propellers since I recommend the 900 Series kits I guess I would recommend Peck Polymer 6 inch. Note propellers are not very expensive so I recommend you get all the sizes of propellers that you can get your hands on. I would get maybe 2 or 3 of each size. they sometimes break.

While talking propellers Yes they need to be balanced. Basically hang the propeller on the shaft so it can spin. One end or the other usually is a little heaver and will point downward. Stick some tape, so it lays flat on the blade, on the other end till it balances out.


http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/ProductDetailNP.asp?Cguid={B724B001-7A6B-4BF6-8D8D-737E6B6BD04F}&ProductID=512&Category=ModelTools:RubberWinders




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[Phugoid]

While talking propellers Yes they need to be balanced. Basically hang the propeller on the shaft so it can spin. One end or the other usually is a little heaver and will point downward. Stick some tape, so it lays flat on the blade, on the other end till it balances out.

The other way is to use a sharp blade and scrape (with the sharp edge trailing) the surface of the heaviest blade to remove tiny shavings of plastic. Unless the prop is very very bad (peck props aren't the best for initial balance BTW) then you don't need to take too much off, it's a 5 minute job normally.

I'm not a huge fan of Peck props, the good thing is that they are available in wide range of sizes, but they are a bit rough and weak I find. If you are looking at 6" props see if you can find the Czech made IGRA props, they are like the old Tern Aero ones which have sqaure ends and have a really big blade area for their diameter. I have had a lot of success with them. To be fair the 6" Guillows prop isn't that bad either it's just a bit heavy, which often isn't a problem as normally you are adding noseweight anyhow.

I agree on the winder completely, those KP aero winders you showed are very good and pretty inexpensive.

Andrew

[WIDDOG]

Thanks good Points Phugoid. I don't have one yet but I have heard good things about the Czech propellers.

I know I have been talking about all the items needed to fly and the list is kind of long. I just wanted to say that it's worth it. This is the best hobby there is. Once you have the items needed they last a long time and will get a lot of use.


http://youtu.be/CNGdBjQntbM

Keith

[Mitch]

Hey Guys,

That all sounds good. And I have a winder like the yellow one pictured, but found out that is for INDOOR models. It will work fine with small models like the 500 series, but when you get into bigger models, with bigger motors, like the 400 series you will need a stronger winder.

Here is the winder I use (with counter) another option is a torque meter.


I carry several Peck Props with me in 7,8,and 9-1/2 inch


Here is my tan rubber motor, braided:


And I use Dow Corning 33 Bearing Grease for lube:


Hope this helps and you can get the winder from "the Gizmo Geezer" at http://www.gizmogeezer.com

Mitch

[WIDDOG]

Your correct again Mitch. Thanks for posting. I'm a Intermediate Skill Level modeler. I know some stuff and still learning a lot of stuff. Anyway you cut it I really love this great hobby. Like all my posts I would wait till the other members commented on my posts before I bet the farm on any advice I give.

Anyway I'm 100% sure this is a cool video. BTW it's not my video, it's not me and not my model.

http://youtu.be/x9SKGJxKfdo