painting on tissue

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painting on tissue

Postby icepick » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:39 am

I am trying to paing camo pattern on tissue with acrylic thinned w/ water, it's not working, the tissue gets wet and the 2nd clor runs under the masking, now my plane has to be re-covered. :x
Any tips on how to do this and make it look realistic?
Thanks
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Postby John G. Jedinak » Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:02 am

I am wondering if you SEALED the tissue prior to painting??? Dope or 50/50 water and white glue are the 2 sealers used. Painting with acrylics will cause the tissue to sag but, once it dries it should shrink back again.

Hope this helps......Luck, JGJ
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Aha!

Postby icepick » Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:20 pm

Yes I sealed it with 50/50 whiteglue/water, I think my problem is to heavy of paint application, :oops: I will fix the damage, and since it is a display model, I'll use rattle can, and go from there, if all else fails, I'll re-cover with different clolored tissue.
The next model is a P-51, I plan to fly it (rubber band) and I'm going to see if "SilkSpan" will work.
Thanks
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Postby SteveM » Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:00 am

A coat or two of a light gray primer might also help seal the tissue and provide an opaque background for your colors. I used Liquitex brand acrylic on my last plane and had no bleeding problems on top of tissue primed with dope then gray acrylic.
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Postby kittyfritters » Fri Nov 30, 2007 3:52 pm

I have never tried to seal tissue with white glue and water. It seems that it would be a little heavy for a small flying model. I use Krylon Crystal Clear fixitive (1303, matte or 1305, glossy) This is a clear acrylic artist's fixative. Two misted coats at a range of about 14 inches should do it.

I am not using masking tape on my models. I use either friskit (clear plastic masking for airbrush work) or tissue. I spray the tissue with Krylon and let it dry. Then I cut it to the shape of the mask that I want and use repositionable glue stick to put it on the model (Post-it Note glue). This works very well as an airbrush masking since it conforms to the tissue underneath very tightly. Since I use Japanese tissue on my models, this is a good use for the domestic tissue that comes in the kit.

I thin my acrylics with rubbing alcohol and spray with an inexpensive Testor's airbrush. This works very well on small stick and tissue models.
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Postby Geoffrito » Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:16 pm

I've had success with enamels for plastic models.. I thin them with dope thinner and airbrush it on.. works for me :)
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Postby moostang51 » Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:39 pm

Always thinned acrylics with isopropyl alcohol. Dries extremely quick though. Best parts, inexpensive, mix consistency is much better than water, and thoroughly cleans the airbrush straight out of the container much better than water.
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