Tora! Tora! Tora! My 400 Zero

[Mitch]

Hi Guys and Gals,

Back home for 22 hours and getting my supplies for next trip... Plan to re-build my 400 series Zero... Then build 2 new ones... Then build the Zero Killer... The 1000 series Hellcat.

Here is the starting point:


The model as you see it weighs in at just over 100 grams. My last model in the 400 series (Miss Scarlet-P-51) weighed in at about 70 grams and flew at Denver but had engine thrust line problems.

This plane flew at WestFAC IV in the "Battle of Midway" (Mass Launch) and was shoot down in the first round. The plane is built from a diecut kit and built to Guillow Plans. The plane flew low to the ground and almost pulled out for a longer flight. At this point in my "flying career" I was still learning how to adjust models for flight and get the proper power set up. My thrust line was very questionable. But my new FAC friends were helpful and enjoyed my enthusiasm! The model flew with tan rubber and a 9 inch Peck prop. The model has potential to fly better as is, but I plan to chop off the wing and build a totally new wing. It will be lighter and have more dihedral. I also plan to remove the tail and build a lighter and larger tail.

If you want anymore pictures of this model ask now as it is going to the bandsaw tomorrow to cut off the wing.

Here is the size of the SAME scale Zero Killer:


...and here is the wing:


I think if I can build the Hellcat light enough it will be an FAC contender!

Mitch

PS: My plans for the new wing will use half the ribs and diehedral to FAC rules... wingtips to the bottom of the canopy.. I plan to build a bent balsa tail. I will also move the motor reg peg forward 2 bays. My new Zero's will be built using kit parts I ordered from Guillow's and my own stock of contest balsa. I use domestic light tissue. I will also have a totally new front end for thrust adjustment!

[Mitch]

Morning Report:

I decided NOT to cut off the wing. I will keep this plane the way it is. It may just hang in my garage. I think this plane earned its place in my flying history and learning curve... Since it flew in competition the way it is, that is the way it will stay! For you folks that want to build a 400 model, if you follow the plans the model will fly. I will make some changes that you may include or not. I will take advice if anyone wishes to give. I am still learning and I am trying to get maximum flight times from these models.

On my next generation Zero's I plan to lighten up the fuselage and tail. Moving the peg forward almost 3 bays that would require a lot of work on this model, so I will leave this "As Is". This model weighs 100 grams. I am hoping to approach 60 grams for a competition model (without rubber).

Now I am off to the Post Office to pick up my package from Guillow's!

Mitch

UPDATE: Just got back from the P.O. Here is what I have to start:


2 cowl and canopy, 2 each of A, B, C, and 1 of D and E. I plan to use the ribs as templates and cut my own. I will not use the wing brace. I will use the fuselage frames from Guillow's. I will use the plans to make templates of the tail on Styrofoam and make bent balsa tails. I will be on my ship for 9 days and expect to have 2 skeletons finished by then.

These new Zeros should be light and fragile... Just like the real thing... And hopefully fly at contest level times!

PM UPDATE: Went to my model shop and picked up a 1/16 scale Pilot:

I plan to do some detailing on my "retired" Zero and install a Guillow's Stearman Pilot in the cockpit. This pilot can stand beside his plane for a photo shoot.

Plan to cover the next Zero in Light Grey overall. I was told that would be better than White.

[Wildpig]

Morning Report:

I decided NOT to cut off the wing. I will keep this plane the way it is. It may just hang in my garage. I think this plane earned its place in my flying history and learning curve... Since it flew in competition the way it is, that is the way it will stay! ......

Cool.

[davidchoate]

The Zero wing is strong. Have you ever thought of maybe keeping the original amount of ribs and stringers, but using 1/20, or even 1/32 wood to build it. And how much did you have to add to balance it?

[Mitch]

Hi Guys and Gals...

Before I left home I checked my inventory in the garage and discovered I have ANOTHER Zero so I took that kit also. My next Zero will be built with ALL Guillow parts and some modifications I have learned that ANYONE can do. You can build your plane as per plans or try some of my innovations!

Progress Report: 3 days of fine weather on my ship to Alaska...

1. Fuselage is nearly finished, just installed the L1's last night, need to install 4 more stringers on bottom. Added lightening holes and will move rear peg forward.
2. Tail parts are build with Guillow D and C parts. I will scallop away some material.
3. Wing is nearly finished. I used the kit parts but only half the ribs, and on those I drilled and cut lightening holes. I will not be using the wing brace and I will set the dihedral higher.
4. Plastic parts. I cut out the center section of the cowl. I will be building up the front end and make a removable, adjustable nose block.
5. The Tamiya pilot went together in the first hour. The kit is only 12 parts. I will prime that model with a black spray enamel. I have my Vallejo paints and wash to paint that figure.

You will have to wait until I get home for the pictures... that will be in on Friday.

As for the ribs. I made my Me-109 with 1/32 ribs but do not like attaching paper to such a small surface. I was told I do not need all those ribs. My Mustang was built with 1/16 ribs but half as many and I like that. This Zero has half the ribs AND those have lightening holes. I read in Don Ross' book you will get a lighter rib with lightening hole than if you used 1/32.

As for the ballast in my Green Zero... I will get back to that. I did not take notes when I built it 2 years ago.

Mitch

UPDATE: Regarding strong wings and ballast. All the 400 series have very strong wings as built per Guillow's. So strong they have no flex and when I tried to add washout after the wing was built I was unable to. My new wing will be light and delicate, but should be strong enough for rubber power. I will add washout before skinning and the skin will also be an important part of the structure.

As far as ballast in the Zero goes... The CG of the plane is very far forward and with a short nose I am sure I had to add a lot of ballast for my first Zero. The plane weighs 100 grams and that is very heavy for my 400 series. Only the Spitfire was heavier. I hope with lightening the rear fuselage, tail, and moving the rear peg, I will need less ballast. Stay tuned...

Mitch... back to the Mitsubishi Heavy Industries... tonight the wing gets assembled...

[davidchoate]

Cant wait to see how you manage with the balance. I had alot of trouble.

[Mitch]

Well I put the last remaining stringers in the fuselage today. So after only 4 days work and maybe 10 hours I have the skeleton finished and all the plastic parts cut out. I will do a photo shoot of the skeleton mocked up tomorrow. Since I have the laser kit I will use all the plastic parts and the kit decals. I need to get some grey paper and a few other supplies from home.

Home in 3 days... I will also pick up my cable for my camera so I can download pictures here on my ship!

Mitch

PS: Note to David... my flight of my 3rd place Me 109 was 38 seconds not 90 seconds. Still that was a beautiful 38 seconds and more than other planes!

[Mitch]

Okay... I am home, and here are a few pictures of the Zero:



I know my pilot looks like Darth Vader but one needs to prime the models before the water colors go on...

I have a lot of construction photos... Let me know if anyone wants to see anything in particular. I plan to cover the model this week. Right now the model balances about 1 inch aft of the balance point, and I have not yet made my nose block.

Here is a close up of the fuselage section:



Here is the tail. I used all Guillow parts and did some lightening:

So... I did a modest amount of lightening. I used ALL Guillow's balsa. I omitted some parts. I will make a adjustable nose block out of scrap balsa and some 1/16 plywood and a few small screws... I will show you what I do. The cowling is now just decorative and will not support the nose block. The model will be powered with a large amount of tan rubber and a 9 inch Peck prop. I will make a 3 blade prop from two 7 inch Guillow props for display and photoshoots.

IF... This model does not fly to my expectations I will get radical and build it again with more dramatic measures. I think anyone who is cofident can use some or all of my improvements... I welcome your comments, questions and criticisms...

Mitch... Keep Building, Keep Flying, Keep Learning

[davidchoate]

Looks good Mitch. I have started using Lightening holes, and scalloping on some planes. I am no expert at it yet, but have to get My planes lighter,and am learning how..

[Steve Blanchard]

Great job Mitch! Good choice to leave out the extra ribs on the wings. I'm really curious to hear about the all-up weight when it's done. The Zero is one of my absolute favorite planes and I have made a couple in different sizes. It's one of only 2 planes I have ever built more than once out of the more than one hundred builds I've done. It's amazing there are so many aircraft to build without ever repeating one. I have the 400 series Laser kit and have not yet built it because I really do like all of my builds to be competition worthy. They don't all end up that way but it is one of my goals when building. Anyway, I hope it turns out the way you expect or even better.

Steve

[Mitch]

Thanks Guys,

I was only home for an hour, but I had my list and I picked up what I needed. Plan to cover the plane this week. I have my camera cable so I will try to download pictures when I can.

The model as you see it weighs in at just 46 grams. I hope to have a finished model under 70, and maybe closer to 60!

I have a question... How much rubber should I put in. I have been going by length, but I know the top flyers put in a percentage of weight. If my model weighs 60, do I put in 30, 40 or 50 % ? I do not have the "book" with me.

Mitch

UPDATE: Just added Hobby Lite Filler to the nose. Thought I would weigh just the balsa parts and not the plastic and tape. 4 main components weigh 35 grams. Fuselage is 18g, wing is 13g, and the tail parts are 2g's each.

[Steve Blanchard]

Hey Mitch,

As far as the rubber is concerned the best approach I have found is to use a rubber to prop combination that you feel best suits the wingspan of the model. If this is a 28" WS model then I would put a 9" prop on it and power it with 2 loops (4 strands) of 3/16" Super Sport rubber. I would then make the length a minimum of 1.5 times the hook to peg length. This way you are starting with power and prop combination that should work. As far as using weight as a means to figure out how much rubber in a model, it doesn't always correlate well. If the model is built heavy for instance, you will only be adding to the problem by weighting it down with more unnecessary motor than will be useful. The power phase of the motor run is what will get the model to climb to optimal height. During cruise as the motor winds down you can still get some climb but only if you are light enough to take advantage of that lower power. When you get to the glide of course weight is key. What you want to end up with is an all up weight including rubber of no more than .5 grams per square inch of wing area. If you are at .4 before the motor goes in then you will only be able to add 25% of that in rubber to stay at .5. Now 25% is not a bad size motor for a large-ish airplane like 28" wing span. If you go to a smaller area/ WS plane then the grams per square inch should get lower as well.
This is all general information but you can see where it is best to properly match the Prop to the plane then the power to the prop. I have needed to switch between 15% motors (flown at our local FAC contests) and unlimited for FAC NATS. Both have worked well but they both needed tweaking for trimming.

I hope this helps,

Steve

[Mitch]

Thanks Steve, that's not an easy answer but it will help. I will still be experimenting with the amount of rubber. My Hook to Peg is only 9 inches so I will go with what I use as a standard amount for starters... So that will be about 2X that length. I plan to weigh that amount and make adjustments from that.

Here is a picture of the model covered but not sealed. I was hoping to spray it today but it is very damp in Anchorage today and I will wait for another day.


What you see weighs 52 grams, but I need to dope, and add decals and nose block. It looks like it would need about 20 grams to balance the model aas she is. I hope the finished model will still be under 75 grams... My best so far... My P-51, Miss Scarlett. (She needs a new tail and work on her nose block)

I like the grey paper, and I am working on landing gear and a 3 blade prop for a photo shoot. No gear and a 9 inch Peck Prop for flying.

I will add more pictures when I get home.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Okay, I'm in Kodiak and the weather is a bit better.
Built up some structure under the cowl, and that added 10 grams. Still not done there... so now model is 62 grams.
2 light coats of Luster Kote and 1 heavier coat as per instructions, and that added another 6 grams... so now I am at 68 grams and the model is not balancing at cg yet. I hope with the completed nose block I get in at 75 grams. I was hoping for less than 70 but that is not going to happen.

Here she is with her "photo" 3 blade propeller:


And the building continues...

[Mitch]

Hey All... I'm home for a day!

...and the Zero is nearly finished:

Here she is 'flying' in my room...

...and now packed up to go home:


I got her home safely and now you will have to wait for flight tests later. I will have a few hours at home and we sail again tonight...

Mitch

The decals went on nicely on the wings and when dried are fairly tight. On the fuselage they are a bit wrinkled. Next time I put on decals I will add some Micro-Sol and Micro-Set.

I am hopeful she will be a good flyer, we will have to wait and see...