Dumas kit # 406 GeeBee Z

[heywooood]

So I have already decided to continue with the Golden Era race planes -


the Dumas kit #401 Laird Super Solution
I have received the Wasp engine kit from Williams Bro's and have already built the crankcase...I have to wait for the kit to see exactly what diameter the cowling is so I can cut the cylinders down
to fit (if needs be)



After this one I have a Century Series USAF jet to work on - a real Hunny...

[Chris A.]

Although not quite as large as the Gee Bee R1, the 1931 Supermarine S6B will build out to make a stunning Golden Age model. I have the Cleveland part template/plan and look forward to building it. So that I have a feel for how it will end up and how it needs to be painted, I'll build the 1/48th scale Testor plastic kit first. As the actual aircraft still exists, a lot of internet sourced detail can be added in.

I do have a question as to when the builders started using streamlined brace and strut wires.

[heywooood]

The Supermarine racers are all very elegant machines..and I also like to have either a plastic scale model or a fine 3D computer model or both to use for reference when building a balsa version of the same aircraft.
You do have to remember though that some model mfgs do not always do the best research. Always good to locate some good print material at the library or on the internet.

as to the heaver bracing wires - I am not certain where or when it originated. It kind of looks like bar stock though. I know the GeeBee Z had it but finding a suitable item for use on a scale model was not expedient.
I opted for the nylon cord that I always use. I have a Herr Eng. Pitts Special that I built years ago and used the very same cord - from the same spool even- and the rigging is still tight as it was when I made it.

If I can find a suitable replication of the heavier bar stock style bracing I would want to test it before I use it on a model - you can't just undo rigging very well.
That said - I would probably want to use the most accurate representation of the bracing as I could find..true of any model component - you want the model to look real after all I suppose

[heywooood]

on the home stretch now...

[Chris A.]

Very realistic model with all your fill in work. That time and effort really pays off when the model is finished. Nice work.

[heywooood]

Thanks Chris, I appreciate that very much.

Here are the final images..

[heywooood]

ok - that's it - Dumas kit #401 Super Solution

[heywooood]

It took a lot of extra work to cut the doors free and make a workable sliding track for the canopy but it's done.
After reading a bit on Matty Laird and Jimmy Doolittle I felt I owed it to their memory to do the best I could.
One of the many signature features of this airplane is the clamshell cockpit door arrangement. The others are the engine and the giant wheel spats.
On those key features I took extra time. Once the doors were off I had to make the cockpit look right as I could within my limitations - so the panel was the key.
I took extra time making the panel look right and then furnishing the typical cockpit controls. Is it exactly to the mfg spec.? no - but it is as good as I could make it at this point in my experience.

[Balsa Pilot]

For what its worth, those are beautiful aircraft. I am just becoming enamoured of the "Golden Age" racers myself.

With that in mind, if you don't mind I have a question or two? When you had say, the fuselage sanded to where you wanted it did you seal it(with what and how?), and did you cover it with anything? Tissue, silkspan, microlite, or did you just paint over the (sealed) balsa? I've just taught myself how to in-fill, and having got the result to where I like it, I am faced with something unknown to me. IF you covered it, HOW did you do it? It's pretty obvious you know what you are doing, so please share the knowledge?

Again, your workmanship and models are really nice - congratulations on such a skill level!

[heywooood]

once the fuselage is sanded and filled - I am using Sherwin Williams shrink free spackling for the filler - then I begin the sealing process. I was using Pactra sealer before but it has become impossible to find due to its Hazmat classification. no one seems to be shipping it into California anymore. If your state or province has less stringent EPA laws you should use that product. I would.
But now I am using Pro-Pine, a water based filler used by the pine car derby crowd. It works well enough but with caveats. First - you must apply it with a wide but fine brush so it will flatten. I would not add water to it to thin it however because that creates other problems. Once you have a nice even layer you MUST let it dry for a day. Then you sand it almost completely off. Then apply another coat and wait a day, then sand that coat down.
I use 320grit tri-mite paper for this process. You will end up with three to five coats depending on the wood and other variables. Then I spray a paint primer coat of either white or light grey so I can see where we are. If the surface is acceptable I brush on a last coat of the sealer wait a day and then sand that almost completely off with the 320 grit - then sand again with a 400 grit paper. Wait another day before painting please. One of the issues with the water based sealers is the water. If you do not let the item you are treating dry thoroughly, then pockets of moisture will lay under the painted surface and when you go to mask it with tape - you will paint a beautiful, smooth layer of color on your model only to see a piece of it lift off with the tape and take every layer of paint primer and sealer with it, down to the bone. THAT is a pisser. So - this product works but I am taking pains to tell you you MUST let it dry between coats and before you paint that final coat. If you can find the Pactra sealer - use that instead - same process without all the waiting.

[heywooood]

I should add that I am painting directly onto the treated wood - no covering. Just in case that wasn't clear.
Be prepared to spend time on this process and know what you will and will not tolerate. Otherwise it could make you lose your damn mind...not me though *twitch* I'm fine

[heywooood]

And I should never forget to say thank you - in all sincerity - Thank You for your kind appraisal of my work. I am grateful to the modelers who have shared their work on these boards and especially to David Duckett for his in depth demonstrations and descriptions on building with this method. If you want to see some amazing work - look for his models at Virtual Aerodrome...This is a wonderful hobby and I hope to inspire others as I was inspired.
Feel free to ask any questions at all - I will answer as best I can

[Balsa Pilot]

Absolutely thank you for your time, its really appreciated. Just knowing that its possible to attain that quality level of paint it, is like the proverbial carrot!

Thanks again and keep up the great work!

[heywooood]

no worries. if you're inspired, I'm happy..if you have a question about any aspect of the model making I have posted, I will answer them when I can.

[heywooood]

most recent project - the Dave Diels Engineering kit : F100 Super Saber








pictured with Today's Hobbies F16