Tissue gripe

[Brenda]

So I ordered a bundle (10 of every color) from Easy Built. The problem is that when dope hits the tissue some of the color bleeds. I had the same problem with the Guillow's white tissue. Yes white is not bleached but some sort of paint that as soon as thinned dope hits it the white runs. I did order one bundle of Jap paper to use on Guillow B-17 and now I think I should have only bought that, or maybe silk span than I can't find. Back in the 1970's I got deep blue tissue that only needed enough dope to hold it down. That stuff was light and didn't have running colors, and I wish I could think of who made it. Does anyone know of good COLOR tissue that can handle clear dope?

[tail spin]

Brenda, Sorry to hear of your troubles, I was about to order the same as you have mentioned. Hope it all works out for you.
Best regards,

[zoomie]

Brenda, fire off an email to Easy Built with a rundown of the problem. I forget the name of the owner but I do know he's a FAC member in good standing and I'll bet a dollar he'll bend over backwards to make things right with you. From what you describe, I'm sure he'd like to know about it.

Sounds like you got some defective tissue that just happened to slip thru the QC process.

Let us know how things work out for you .


zoomie

[Mitch]

Brenda,

I am so sorry to hear about the color problem. I have used almost every military color they have, and have never seen that problem. Was there one color in specific that ran? What type of dope are you using?

I use SIG Nitrate Dope. That's the stuff that is NOT hot fuel proof. Lately I have been using Top Flite brand's 'LusterKote' Spray, crystal clear. This stuff IS hot fuel proof, but I use it for the ease of application.

I will be curious to find out what you learn, if you contact EasyBuiltModels. Let us know what they say.

The only problem I have had with colors running is when I make my own markings on my printer. I notice I can lay on a little dope, but if I brush it too much, it starts to break down the color on the paper quickly.

Mitch

[Brenda]

I didn't want to contact easy built right away as all the balsa I got from them was broken in 1/2 by UPS. I was useing Aerogloss by Midwest. Clear flat. Same exact thing happened useing Guillows white. Soon as dope or thinner hits paper the colors run.

[Mitch]

I think that is the dope I used when I was a kid. They come in little jars? The hobby shops used to have racks of them and they came in clear or colors. I used the colored dope back then and laid it on over the silkspan. Is it Nitrate or Butrate?

Anyway I am also disappointed to hear about the broken balsa, but that seems like an UPS problem. I hope you can still use it, I know there stuff comes in long lengths.

As for the bleeding, I would call EasyBuilt, and hopeful someone has a knowladable answer for you.

Here is a pic of my FW with 4 different colors:

The only color that smearmed was the fuselage cross that is a paper photocopy of the decal.

This model had an earlier wing that was 2 tone grey, also my Spitfire is 3 colors with no bleeding of any colors. I also made a few German WW1 with multiple colors and no problems.

Good Luck, Mitch

[zoomie]

Brenda, I now can't help but wonder if the thinner you're using isn't the problem. You've experienced tissue color bleeding with both Easy Built and Guillows brands, and I assume your dope/thinner mix has been the same with both brands?

Also wondering if you put some non-standard special additive in your dope or thinner, such as a plasticizer or other?

What did Guillows say about their white tissue bleeding? Their fault, or some other reason?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn what the heck is going on here .


zoomie

[Brenda]

Midwest aerogloss is Butrate. I mix 70/30 with midwest thinner. The only tissue that did not run was the jap tissue. I also tried Sig with same results. Nitrate dope prob will never run. The good thing about Sig is they have tons of colors so I can just repaint it with that.

[BillParker]

Brenda, shoot some photos.... And share them with us.

I use Aircraft Spruce Butyrate, thinned with pure acetone, and have never seen tissue colors run. Paint, maybe, but not tissue...

This is an interesting thread!

bp

[Mitch]

Brenda,

The entire reason I use colored paper and clear dope is for weight saving. If you are planning to fly I would not use colored dope. If I was building for show, I would use Guillow's Silkspan paper, several coats of clear dope and airbrush with acrylics. I don't want you to give up on colored paper. I hope the issue can be determined what is wrong and solve the problem.

Mitch

[BillParker]

RE the Guillows forum.

I don’t use colored tissue but I do have some from both Guillows and some from Easy Built. Later today, when it drops below 100*, I’ll do some experimenting with dope and the colored stuff to see if I can replicate the colors bleeding as Brenda mentions. While I can see the possibility of colored tissue bleeding, I can not see how the white stuff from Guillows could possibly bleed. It’s white! As 99% of my models are covered with silkspan I can assure you not once have I ever seen any bleeding, using either butyrate or nitrate dope. I use SIG dope and their thinner for it. In fact, silkspan painted with dope is practically transparent on the wood it covers.

The reason she can’t find silkspan is that it is no longer being made since at least 2013. Needless to say, that completely messes up my building technique! SIG does carry the light and medium weights at this time but I haven’t seen any heavier grade at all. The problem is that they want about $4 per sheet and they are the only source I have seen.

Cheers,

David

I buy silkspan directly from Guillow's...

see:

http://www.guillow.com/whitesilkspancovering.aspx

bp

[David Lewis]

Japanese Esaki Lite-Flite tissue (12.5 g/m^2) has the most acetone-proof dye. Domestic tissue, which is heavier and weaker, might use cheaper dye. I use Elmer's white glue thinned with water to attach the tissue and it seems to work.

[Brenda]

I put a drop of thinner on the white paper and pointed screwdriver at it. As you can see white is paint and it ran. The paper is not bleached white it is dyed white. Natural paper is more brown.

[davidchoate]

I have tried every type of tissue pretty much, and never had bleach, or bleed of color with any. It must be that paticular brand, and you just may have got a bad batch, If it persists, you can always spray with clearcoat laquer, or acrylic. When I want to save weight, thays whwat i seal with.

[Steve Blanchard]

Hi Brenda,

You may have already explored this option but I use Krylon Crystal Clear as my finish for all of my models. It is extremely light and I have never had any colors run with it. I still use Nitrate Dope for my balsa finish whether it be for nose blocks or carved props, etc. I am very surprised at the Easy built colors running. I have used them successfully on many models without any issues. It is actually very good for domestic tissue. I do believe however that Japanese tissue is the best out there and it is what I use on 99% of my builds.

Steve