How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

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How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

Postby BillParker » Fri May 06, 2011 9:03 am

How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

By Mr. David Duckett
(How To uploaded for Mr. Duckett by bp)

This will illustrate how I paint with Liquitex acrylic paint. Using other brands will produce other results but the basic principles are the same.

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White is used more than any other color so I buy it in large tubes as it's cheaper that way. When adding a color to white start by adding a very small amount and see what happens before adding more. I want a light grey color so only a small amount of black is needed. I mix in plastic cups with a brush big enough and strong enough to do it. It is absolutely essential that the paint be mixed as thoroughly and smoothly as possible. It is if you buy those little jars of it. I mix paint the way Italians cook pasta, al dente, and when it feels right I paint. For this I decided to do it by weight just for grins and to explain the idea.

The plastic cup weighs 2 grams and I added 53 grams of paint plus 46 grams of water to achieve the consistency which will allow it to be painted evenly. The idea is for it to flow and not leave mountains and ridges in the wake. The first test is if it will flow down the edge of the cup and when it does you're doing it right. Paint has a feel to it and you can feel when you've obtained the ratio of paint to water that makes it feel good when you paint and not a horror from the black lagoon. You must absolutely use the very finest brushes you can afford when painting outer coats and you should have damn good ones for the primer coats, as well. Brushes with soft bristles work best because they allow more control over the paint. Use brushes with stiff bristles if you want to paint like Van Gogh. You don't need lots of brushes of different sizes. I have 5 or 6 usually and replace as needed. A good small brush costs about $7.

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The Dumas F-105 has been covered with heavy grade silkspan, nose cone left uncovered, and the entire structure has been given two coats of Sig nitrate dope. The plastic air scoops were also painted with dope as that seems to make the acrylics adhere better. A light sanding will also work on the plastic pieces.

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The entire plane has had one coat applied. The objective is to get the paint on as smoothly as you can, checking it constantly to insure that it's all drying smoothly. What it actually looks like is not important. When it's thoroughly dry lightly sand and check for any places where the paint might have dried thicker than it should.

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After two full coats you can still see some of the surface underneath but you can also see that the color is beginning to be more homogenous and what that effect does to the overall appearance.
William H. Parker Jr. (Bill Parker)
President, Parker Information Resources
http://www.parkerinfo.com/ap.htm bparker@parkerinfo.com
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How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

Postby BillParker » Fri May 06, 2011 9:04 am

How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

By Mr. David Duckett
(How To uploaded for Mr. Duckett by bp)

Image

The entire structure has 5 coats of the light grey at about 9 grams per coat. I put some of the mixture in a separate cup and added white for the bottom color which is now just slightly off white and applied 3 coats of that to the bottom areas.

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I painted on the black now cause it's easier than trying to paint this in reverse. I mixed white and burnt umber for the brown and when it looks close paint on the first coat. Acrylics dry darker than when wet so wait until it's dry before making any decisions. This color will serve as the "underpainting" and the precise color will be determined when all the other colors are on.

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This shows the first and second coat of the brown. Once again, smooth is more important than looks and you can see what the second coat does to the purity.

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After three coats the brown is complete. Underpainting refers to painting on a color and then adding another on top and in painting laying in the lights and darks determines where and what to add. So the brown will serve as both an underpainting for the other colors and is lighter than they will be so it will be easier to cover. The most extreme example of lights and darks is a checkerboard but in fact everything is lights and darks. Probably the easiest example of what underpainting does is the color known as candy apple red. The principle is the same as the Renaissance painters learned from the Dutch and why those paintings seem to glow when you're standing in front of one of them. In more modern times, the work of Maxfield Parrish demonstrates the same technique.

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This shows the idea of lights and darks as they apply to this plane. The beauty of acrylic paint is that if you make a mistake, wait a couple of minutes until it dries and paint over it. This will serve as the base for what's to come but it's not a holy relic. Yet.
William H. Parker Jr. (Bill Parker)
President, Parker Information Resources
http://www.parkerinfo.com/ap.htm bparker@parkerinfo.com
BillParker
 
Posts: 1031
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Location: Houston, Texas

How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

Postby BillParker » Fri May 06, 2011 9:05 am

How To: David Duckett and Liquitex Acrylic Paint

By Mr. David Duckett
(How To uploaded for Mr. Duckett by bp)

Image

The green is based on Chromium Oxide Green lightened with white and yellow and then adjusted with bits of this and that until it looks right. I outlined the area to be green with a pencil and painted on two coats. It's important to paint it all green and not just the lighter areas because it keeps the surface consistently smooth and serves as the underpainting for the darker green.

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This is the first coat of dark green on top of the lighter green and you can see how well it covers.

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The darker areas are all defined and have had two coats applied. After the first coat it's not necessary to paint each additional coat right up to the very edge of the color separation, close works surprisingly well and will allow any additional coats you choose to apply to be much easier. After three coats these colors will not get any more pure but additional coats will make them shinier.

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Make any corrections necessary and store leftover paint in sealed containers until every last single thing has been painted and the plane is finished. It's hard to mix a color to match later unless it's black or white. Little containers of various colors of paint can be quite handy for other planes, too.

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Painting on the wheel wells finishes the basic painting. Many plans show them painted black but that's just not right so I paint them in a fairly neutral grey. I advise letting the completed plane sit for at least a couple of days before drawing any panel lines on or doing any additional painting which will require masking.

And that's the truth!

--David Duckett
William H. Parker Jr. (Bill Parker)
President, Parker Information Resources
http://www.parkerinfo.com/ap.htm bparker@parkerinfo.com
BillParker
 
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Location: Houston, Texas

Postby Seeker » Sat May 07, 2011 10:56 am

Thx!
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Postby Xanadu » Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:40 pm

Great tutorial........excellent idea. :D
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Postby sawingman » Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:55 pm

As others have already said, this is a great tutorial. Thanks for posting. In one of your previous posts I thought I remember you stating that you used 1/64 inch tape for your panel lines. Did you use tape on this plane? It looks terrific!
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Postby sawingman » Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:19 am

Mr. Duckett, thanks for that explanation. Now I understand. I appreciate you mentioning your sources. I have a Michael's store close to me so I will check their selection of pens and tape.
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What color

Postby Szyp » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:10 am

Me again, looking to learn. I am going to liquitex my 403lc Spitfire and the recommended colors are pale blue, sandy brown and green haze. Any suggestions on what liquitex colors, other than a lot of white, would be the best choice- either as is out of the tube or mixed. I'm learning, and hope to return the favors and kindness soon. :?:
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WOW!!

Postby Szyp » Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:24 pm

Thank you so very much. You have been so very helpful and kind that I am at a loss for words to express my appreciation!!! :P
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Postby Szyp » Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:40 pm

Thank you. The airliners.net is some site. We never had resources like this when I was a kid 50 years ago building models....... :!:
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Postby cliffm » Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:56 am

No, we sure did'nt have a lot of the resources and surely communication like the internet, that did'nt keep our resourcefulness at bay though, if you need some very thin masking tape, take your roll of tape to a meat slicer, dial in your thickness and rotate your roll of tape on the cutting wheel for a cut all the way around the roll of tape. Don't try and slice it like meat but slowly rotate the tape roll. You won't be able to slice thru the whole roll but after you run out you can go back and slice a little more into the roll. Just us country boys gettin by, WATCH THE FINGERS!!!!!
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Postby Szyp » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:12 am

I have a trick to share- if your masking tape adhesive is old and doesn't want to stick, put it in the microwave for 15-20 seconds, and like new. Also, Pep Boys level (inexpensive) pin-striping can also be used as a guide because it will conform to odd shapes- just use a few carefully aligned layers- is any adhesive remains, which is unlikely, either slight heat or mineral spirits will take it off- just use a q tip for gentleness. Works for me.... :idea:
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Postby Szyp » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:51 am

Amen to the choir!! :lol:
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