Kit 403 LC Spitfire Build

[Supercubber95]

HATS OFF TO MISTER DAVID DUCKETT FOR THIS KIT!!! Highly appreciated Mr. Duckett! I have just started on it, got all the peices punched out. Laser cut is fantastic! Most just fell out as soon as I picked up the sheet, and the last sheet was like it was made out of oak. Hard time getting those out but I did it! We'll see how she goes!!!

[Supercubber95]

Oh, I tried the tissue only camo on the Ritzy Spit scratch built; looks fine I think.

[Supercubber95]

Wrong pic! Sorry.

[Supercubber95]

Okay.... Progress: In the fuselage jig:

[Supercubber95]

In the last pic I had the camera tipped;it isn't twisted like it looks!

[Supercubber95]

Well, the fuselage is about done. This laser cut kit goes together like a puzzle. Everything just pops in place! The fuse is huge to me... Never even built one half this size! Can't wait for that elliptical wing!

[jensheydel]

Got me some popcorn and looking forward to the build Supercubber ... looks good keep it up

Cheers, Jens

[Supercubber95]

Thank you Jens. Nice to have some encouragement! I got a question-should I cover the entire fuselage frame in 50/50 white glue/water mix to seal the wood? What advanteges does it give me? I know others do it. I am just going to cover with a gluestick.

[jensheydel]

Supercubber, covering the entire frame with a 50/50 mix of white glue ( I am guessing Elmers or something like that right?) is not really needed. The only surfaces that should have it are the surfaces that actually get the silkspan paper attached to them. Putting it anywhere else is really just adding dead weight to the model. I would not do it all if you intend to use a glue stick.

Glue sticks (UHU or Elmers) do require a bit of practice and I strongly urge you to spend time making certain the framework is sanded to a fine finish. I use very fine paper to finish sanding the frame prior to using a glue stick. My personal experience is that the frame should be left bare when I use a glue stick. The reason is the glue stick simply sticks better to a smooth bare wood surface. This also provides you with a nice smooth finish afterwards. After the glue has dried out (at least ovenight) then you can go ahead and shrink the paper using a very fine mist of water to moisten the paper covering. Important is that you do not soak it as glue sticks are not waterproof and will if wet enough let go of the paper. I generally use steam appllied very lightly (do not burn your fingers please).

Best practice is to practice, take some scrap balsa and build a few simple structures and cover them with paper using a glue stick. After the paper has tightened then use a thin coating of dope to seal the whole thing up. Dope will initially loosen the paper a bit but after it dries it will tighten back up, and by the way it continues to tighten the paper over time. Use caution with dope .. the stuff does not just have a strong smell these vapors are also dangerous. So always use dope in a well ventilated room.

Cheers, Jens

[Supercubber95]

Thanks Jens! I read a tip somewhere... Don't know where now but it said to use your gluestick, then take a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol on it and put it on the tissue right over the glue, and that would soak through to the glue and bond it very solid. I used gluestick on the Ritzy Spit to see how the tissue only camo looked and the gluestick held fine.

[BillParker]

That bad boy is big is it?








Have fun!


bp

[Supercubber95]

Yow, Mr. Parker! No quite.... I will! Thanks!

[Supercubber95]

So far I got this: I loves it!

[BillParker]

I will say that those lazer cut parts are purty!

[Supercubber95]

Ain't they though? They is the cats meowr!