dope and fabric

[robert zorie]

Hello ! I am looking at some of the varieties of covering discussed , and I must say , I am quite impressed at the different ways people approach the topic. I work on aircraft to pass the time , and make a buck , and the (very ) old use of DOPE AND THINNER just seems to work , almost always . Please , don't take offense here , but you can get the stuff by the gallon , if you want , down at the local airfield . I realise that we do not have hobby shops like we used to , thanks to mailorder ( internet ) we should all spend more time and money at the mom and pop shops , if you have one. Please do not throw flaming pitchforks at me , rather go down to the aerodrome , talk to the folks there , and ,while there , maybe get a flying lesson ?There is no seperation between the Space Shuttle , A Boeing 747 , a beech Staggerwing , a J-3 cub , or a 13" wingspan "peanut" . They are all flying machines ,and the forces and effects do not change . I probably should stop here . Over .

[SteveM]

Somewhere around here there was a discussion about dope and someone mentioned that you could still buy it in large quantities for use on full scale planes. I was not aware of that, and I thought it was pretty nifty, but what would I do with a gallon if it takes me years to go through a quart of SIG nitrate dope?

Maybe you and David Duckett can actually use up a gallon of dope in a reasonable amount of time.

My last few builds used a UHU purple glue stick and I rather liked the results. I have used dope and thinners in the pasts, but if I tried to use it now that I'm married the boss would surely banish me outside.

[cliffm]

I will have to decline in agreeing with your viewpoints in your post. There are some huge differences. Money for one! For $10 I can have enough elmers and craft store acrylics to do 4 models of medium size. Another point is the fact It's really hard to use the old butyrates and nitrates in a household environment. These materials need to be used with adequate ventilation and a regard to safety around children and pets. Undeniably they do give the best results for covering a model used for flight,but for static display and indoor use my preference has to go along with the green building materials.

[rayd]

As a kid, I made many planes and flew lots of U Control in city parks. No problems back then re supplies, legal ordinances, etc. Basically fun days then for flying model. Late dad worked in auto body shop. I'd hang around, help some, and also do model plane work, doping/painting, engine break-in. Used "hot fuel proof" supplies with strong odors, Pactra paints, thinner, Ambroid glue, K&B fuel. I'm talkin' late 50s, early 60s. At home, my clothes smelled of toxic substances even after being washed!

Strong odors were no concern then...they blended with auto body shop lacquers, etc. Times change, career, girls, family, etc. Am now returning to hobby which now seems a lost art in many ways! Glues, paints, stores, places to fly, laws, ..so different. Also, no way would wife allow strong odors/flammable substances around. So, must use Elmers, and glue sticks, acrylics. If I had space and ok, would love to use old fashioned stuff. Ain't gonna happen for me, but thanks for advice...perhaps some members can use. Many of us are older...must be careful with strong stuff...fumes, flammabilty issues, also if kids, pets around. I liked the old supplies..The newer ones require trial & error, and don't always work that well....but, we're a resourceful bunch, we'll get through ok.

[BillParker]

Steve, I used a quart on 4 rgular sized planes day before yesterday. It takes a half gallon to do one of my big ones...

[dpurcell]

I'm just getting into balsa and free flight. (I never did as a kid...plastic models only for some reason!) I'm going with nitrate dope, my wife doesn't know that there are alternatives and I'm not telling her

[ADW 123]

Probably a good way to go dpurcell