Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

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Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

Postby guitardude » Sat Feb 18, 2012 3:11 pm

Hello everyone,

I'm new to this forum but definitely NOT new to Guillow's kits and building. I probably built my first Guillow's kit 30 to 40 years ago, and two of them are still hanging in my parents basement. I naturally progressed into control -line and most recently RC model aircraft. Anyway I've purchased a Guillow's kit #95, Piper Cub and am kicking around the idea of making it an RC aircraft. I'm currently working on a small High Wing "Herr Engineering" Starlite and have been covering the aircraft with Solarfilm So-lite Covering. Its gone on fairly well, but is some what a challenge to work with as it will shrink enough to bend some of the framework of the tail pieces. I have had to re-cover a couple of pieces to keep them from warping.

So I'm wondering if anyone knows of an EXTREMELY Light and low temperature covering that could be applied to Guillows and other like kits.

Any information is GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!
Men never grow up, our toys just get more exspensive... :^)
guitardude
 
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Re: Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

Postby Xanadu » Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:12 pm

I hear some have good results with coverlite. But it requires to brush on balsarite onto the wood surfaces first. The coverite does not have an adhesive on it, so the balsarite is the adhesive. Brush it on just like dope before covering, then use a low temp iron upon covering. The heat activates the balsarite adhesive and bonds the covering to the structure.
http://www.coverite.com/covering/covq1800.html
http://www.coverite.com/accys/covr2500.html (balsarite)
Xanadu
 
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Re: Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

Postby Bill Gaylord » Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:14 pm

Xanadu wrote:I hear some have good results with coverlite. But it requires to brush on balsarite onto the wood surfaces first. The coverite does not have an adhesive on it, so the balsarite is the adhesive. Brush it on just like dope before covering, then use a low temp iron upon covering. The heat activates the balsarite adhesive and bonds the covering to the structure.
http://www.coverite.com/covering/covq1800.html
http://www.coverite.com/accys/covr2500.html (balsarite)

I have several colors of it, and will have to try it one of these days. I imagine the iron will shrink it, like the film coverings. I've been lazy, using their microlite film with adhesive, which is also really light. Although they recommend against it, the stuff actually paints and reshinks well. Pretty much my covering of choice for Guillows planes. The standard weight iron-on coverings will make tanks out of the Guillows planes, along with tail heavyness issues. I started having much better success with the planes, using the Coverite covering. Microlite can warp surfaces, but not if you're careful to not overshrink it. You can generally shrink with the iron while twisting a bit, to remove most warps. The key is like any other iron-on, where it needs to be applied nearly perfectly, so that little shrink is required. I see some jobs where people just wrap a fuse as if it were a pound of ground beef, and rely on the incredible shrink properties to pull out all the loose wrinkles. By the time they're done, they've shrunk it so hard that all the curved stringers have lost their shape, and are bowing inward.

As for the Piper Cub, I actually got it flying as an rc plane, after recovering the tail and wings with yellow microlite. It was one of my earlier builds, and was quite heavy. At a lighter weight it would be an excellent flyer, like the Guillows C150.
Bill Gaylord
 
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Re: Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

Postby Xanadu » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:19 pm

Actually I not sure if it shrinks much, seems like it acts more like an iron on tissue instead of shrink covering. Might shrink a tad, but nothing like other covering.
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Re: Iron on Covering for Guillows and other kits

Postby SteveM » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:48 pm

I've used the Solite film with great success on several models, including a 400 series P-51. Granted, my rudder and ailerons were solid, but warping wasn't an issue for me anywhere.
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