I need help on my very frist build

[Jason K]

I am building a #502 Focke Wulf FW-190.I have never attempted to build a model airplane before until now. How do you cut out the little 1/16 notchs with out ripping the balsa wood.I worked alittle on it to today.I ended up ripping out some wood on the notchs on the cut out with my x-acto knife. I would like to know some tips too prevent it from happing or ripping little as possible.I am looking for a sooother cut some how or something. I am sure I will be asking more as I go on this project.I am plan on getting more after I finish this one.

Thanks
Jason

[Wildpig]

HI Jason,
The problem you are experiencing is very common. I will try to upload a picture of a "notcher". There are several variations of this tool. The one I like is simply a 1/16" square stringer stick about 2 inches long. Glue a strip of 320 grit sandpaper to one side of the stick. The sandpaper of course is trimmed to be exactly the same width as the stringer. Just rub the stick back and forth where the notch is supposed to be. After about 10 or 12 strokes, the sandpaper will have "eaten" down a 1/16 inch. And there you have it: a notch.

Try as you might, there will still be the occasion where the former rips. Just glue it back together and set it aside to cure.

[Wildpig]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2250&p=13752&hilit=notcher#p13752

The link above is to a discussion about a notcher used by David Duckett. He used a rectangular piece of wood. That's his notcher sitting on top of the coffee cup. You can see the sandpaper on the narrow edge. I like using a piece of stringer stock because it's easier to determine when you sanded down far enough. i.e. the top of your notcher will be flush with the edge of the former.

[joecrouse]

I suggest taking a bit of sandpaper and super gluing it to a medium size piece of Scrap 1/6th from the kit on a nice flat edge. Then Trim the sand paper to be a nice 1/6th inch wide use that as your Notch Cutter

[Jason K]

Thanks for the replies everyone.I am going ahead and make one.It looks like a good idea.

Thanks
Jason

[Jason K]

I know I am getting head of my here.I was wondering what is the best way too put tissue on guillows 500's models.Do you put it on like the it says? Or do you put in on in bigger sizes?I saw on youtube work from the bottom up in bigger size tissue. Covering is going too be the confusing part of this project. Please let me know..

Thanks
Jason

[Wildpig]

There are several methods to covering. Just experiment and find what suits you best. You can always follow the instructions, that method will work.
I like to take UHU stick glue and rub it on a section of the model, then place a piece of tissue on it that is slightly bigger than the area you just glued. Let it dry, then shave off the excess tissue with a new Xacto blade.

Search this forum for tissue covering. There is much discussion about it. And someone did a build thread with the Guillow Cessna 180, very informative.

[Jason K]

I forgot too say. I bought dope and thinner from Dare Hobby. I got the nitrate dope and thinner.I am maybe thing of trying a glue stick.But frist I am going use dope.I thought I would tell everyone. I will do a search on the subject.I the mean time please let me know on tips and etc..

Thanks
Jason

[Wildpig]

Doping the fabric is the good ol' fashioned way of doing it. Which is just fine. You read precautions, such as: use in a well ventilated area-- no kidding, dude. Out in the garage, with a fan blowing.

[Mitch]

Jason,

Here's my 2 cents on covering. I have found that covering the edge with glue stick is easy and clean. For a first timer I would cover with dry paper, check the grain. I try to cover with as big a piece as possible. With dry paper the paper has enough strengh for you to pull it gently and get it smooth, trim and continue, until the component is covered. Anywhere where there is a compond curve, you will need to go with smaller pieces.

To apply paper wet is more difficult, and the paper will tear very easily.

My dislike of applying dope to glue the paper on is that you may use too much dope, and get it on the paper in general. I want the paper covering my model, with no dope, then wet so the paper shrinks evenly. Any spots that are too saggy can be wet down again or replaced.

When I am satisfied that the skin looks good enough for me, then I apply dope over the completed strucure.

Mitch

[Jason K]

I would use a glue stick but I am going to use dope for everything being that I bought it already.I like doing things the old school way it seems too be more interesting and fun.I have been a person that like too do thing the old school way.I thank everyone that replied to my post so far but I need info on how too use dope on everything.I do have a good area to use dope.My basement has a big fan that moves the air outside.That is where my workbench is for everything.Heck I rebuilt chainsaws down there and run them with out any troubles from wife about the smell..lol.. So it is no big deal. Any info or tips on using dope for applying dope to put on the covering and applying to my covering I would like that.

Thanks for everyones time

Jason K

[Mitch]

Jason,

Dope should be fine. As I recall when I was a kid... some 2 score of years ago and more... I used a balsa sealer also. I have not seen that in the hobby shops anymore. I would use full strength dope as the sealer.

So I would start with the tail pieces they are flat and should be easy. Using a small brush, dope the wood around the edges of the tail. The wood will really soak this up. Let dry and lightly sand. You may need a second coat... I would say have the paper cut and ready to go, if the dope is staying wet the second time you could apply the paper then. You only need to dope around the edge, not at every stringer, longron or brace. You want the edge of the paper to be firmly glued to the work.

When dry sand the edge of paper to remove excess. Then paper other side the same way. When all dry and excess paper removed, I lightly spray with a water bottle. When dry, then paint the entire piece with a larger brush with your dope. (Dope should be thinned... I think anywhere between 50/50 to 2/3 dope 1/3 thinner)

Let dry, the paper will really soak up the dope also and it will take 2 or 3 coats to seal the paper well, and the paper will get a nice shine to it.

I also lightly...LIGHTLY... sand the paper... I like to do this as is smooths out the finish and gives the model a weathered look.

Hope this Helps, Mitch

[Jason K]

Mitch,
Thanks for the help on the dope with my plane.One thing what way do you you run the grain of the tissue for the wing,tail
and body of the plane.I am going to be using enamel paint (model master).

Oh I was wondering what kinda rubber.It has that green rubber with it.Is there better one that holds up longer.I get my supplies from dare hobby.They carry tan rubber.Olso what size of rubber for the 500s kits with and etc.I would like too get most of it for fight time and most life out it as pobbible.Also I have seen talk about rubber rubber lube for the rubber.What do you ppl..Use that is the best for the rubber.Any tips,tricks,how do you use it, and where do you get it..Would be much apperciated..

Thanks for you time
Jason K

More tips on using dope I would like that too..I need as much info on everything. Like I said I never built or any thing like this before.This is the frist time working with wood like this and small.The only thing I made with wood is a self in high school..lol...My trade is working with metals and engines.That is where I shine the best.To eveyone that reads this and helped me so far I am haveing alot of building this model plane.I am hooked..But I need help to learn..Thanks Again

[Mitch]

Jason

I am glad you are hooked... for me... I build plastic, paint model soldiers, but these wood airplanes are the "Cat's Meow"
I do not believe I am the best resource for help but as no one else chimes in I will continue to tell you what I know...

If you are following my other threads you will see that I am trying to fly these models also... (400) This will be my best effort to date, as a kid they were hopelessly overwieght and I new nothing about better rubber. I plan to be repairing the 109 soon and I can document how I remove and replace the skin and make repairs to the tail.

The instuctions should show the direction of paper, if you tear the paper and it tears straight that is the grain. Basically grain from wingtip to wingtip. Nose to tail. I would suggest you aquire Don Ross' book "Flying Rubber Powered Model Airplanes" For the 500 series I would gues 1/4" tan rubber. You will cut this to the length you want, you would want to "break in the rubber" For Lube... someone said here Armor-All car spray works. You might find specific rubber lube at your hobby shop.

You can follow along in my threads as I will be balancing and installing rubber and flight testing soon. For me I built these to fly, and after my flight test I plan to build the winner with more weight saving tips I have picked up... I am not getting my hopes to high for spectacular flights because I know my results in the past...

For me I plan to use the rubber in the kit for now, I have 3/16 rubber and might use 6 strands for my "Top Gun", as I will continue to make improvements.

Mitch

[Jason K]

So where is a good place to get the best rubber? Is tan the best? and what do I use for lube for the rubber.I plan on flying. Mine will not be wall hangers.I would just like too get the most life out of them(rubber).

I wish other ppl would chime in too.I guess they must be busy with someone else.

Well I ordered that book you said from amazon.I hope it is good.I just don't want to build my planes as lead sleds..lol.

Thanks for getting back to me Mitch.

If anyone else wants to chime in more then welcome too.