I need help on my very frist build

[Wildpig]

Hey, Jason,
On another thread, I think it was the "Recommendations, please" , forum member John Jedinak said he had extra copies of Guillow's "How to build" booklet. He said he would give a copy to anyone who needs it. The booklet has very good, easy to follow, information. See if you can round up a copy. The Don Ross book is really informative, goes into much detail about flying the models, too.

The green rubber in the kits is not good for anything, as far as I'm concerned. I got 3 flights from it, wound to only 75 turns.
Tan rubber is just fine. There are several sources online. Google: free flight model supplies that will get you started.
How much and what size? There are varying opinions about this. You could wait and read Don Ross' book, it's in there.

I think I mentioned this before but, I'll say it again..... get your model balanced according to the plans and get it to glide properly. First.

[Mitch]

Jason,

Let me say... take your time, enjoy you build, learn, and make your next plane better. I am no expert, and I came to this site like you to get advice from other modelers. I started in this hobby long ago and have been off and on. I really like these Gullows kits because of there scale appearance. In some ways it is easier to build larger kits so I give you alot of credit in your endevours.

Everyone tells me I shoud build bigger or with power, but I think it is a very special thing if I can build a scale model that will fly with just a rubberband. My best flyer I built was a printed kit (You Cut the Parts Out!) It was a peanut scale (12-14in ws) My lesson learned was build light!

I am of the feeling if you build your plane well, it will be a better flyer than my 400 series... finish your model, see how it flys and build another, that's my advice.

I will be here with you!

Mitch

[Jason K]

Sorry guy's I have been very busy this week.I plan on starting too work on the wing this saturday for awhile.I got alot of things going on here in the next month so it only leaves a few hours on saturday's to work on it.

Anyways thanks wildpig and Mitch.I did get the book today in the mail.I plan on reading it this weekend when I get time too.Mitch and wildpig I thank you guy's alot for helping me with my frist build.I did order another one just like what I am building my son wants one so and he wants to learn how too build.I told him let me frist learn how to build then I will show him.

Oh where in the heck does a person put the modeling clay when it is covered ??? I am just wondering..


Thank
Jason

[Wildpig]

Oh where in the heck does a person put the modeling clay when it is covered ??? I am just wondering..
Thank
Jason

I have cut a hole in the cowling where an air inlet would be and stuffed clay in there. I've poured Elmer's glue in the hole where the propeller goes in the cowling and then dropped lead weights into the glue. Not the most elegant solution. I guess the answer is: anywhere , any way you can.

[joecrouse]

I cut a hole in the nose block and drop either led weights or BBs from my BB rifle. (I think, perhaps the BBs are a better bet while they are definitely lighter being steel and not led they are more conducive to pouring via a funnel)

[scigs30]

FIrst airplane? The 500 series is probably not the best choice but I understand. The Piper and Cessna 600 series is the best but if you like WWII than the 900 series is pretty easy. For building, the little how to book that came with the kit is great and will get you through the building process. For notches, the 1/16 wide strip of wood and 1/16 strip of sandpaper works great. For me I have been using a dremel with a 1/16 wide cut off wheel, makes fast and perfect notches. For tissuing, just follow the directions on covering in small sections. Attatch the tissue with a Glue stick or 50/50 water/Elmers glue mixture. After the tissue is dry, lightly spray with water to shrink the tissue. Then brush on 2 coats of 50/50 thinner/dope. I am glad you want to fly this, but they are real difficult to fly. First the FW190 is a large bird and the prop is too small, you need at least a 6 inch prop. Also for the size, these kits are heavy. The 500 series Hellcat flies great but the FW190 takes some series trimming. Also it will use about 2 loops of 1/8 rubber to keep this in the air, I order mine from Peck Polymers. The 500 series is my favorite from Guillows and I cannot wait until they all become laser cut some day. Here is my Build
viewtopic.php?t=1307

[Ace423]

I can't find dope anymore so I started using Guillows advice with white glue mixed
50/50 with water. Works perfect - much cheaper and no dangerous fumes and
cleans up easy with water. You can use it to seal wood, attach tissue and seal
tissue.

[BillParker]

Here's where I buy my dope...

BUTYRATE (fuel proof)

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV6.html?L+Sig+lysv8932+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02a46PaintSigSuperCDpe_01Search_02Index_01Menu_02CatProd_01Thumb_02Dope_01

NITRATE (the other kind)

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV6.html?L+Sig+lysv8932+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02a46PaintSigNitrateDp_01Search_02Index_01Menu_02CatProd_01Thumb_02Dope_01

Oh, and it ain't "dangerous" if you try not to breath it...


bp

[Jason K]

Sorry everyone I been so busy with my son and farming have not got any time to build until today.I finished up the fuse today.It weights in at 10 grams on the nose.Is that to heavy,light or just wright.I thank everyone that has got back too me on this qustions I have and tips that you all gave me.Well I am going to use a UHU glue stick too put on the tissue and use dope too cover the rest. How many times should I go over it with dope so I can paint it? I would llike too know any tips on keeping it light as posbile.I will keep everyone posted as I go here .But keep the tips comming.Yes this is the very frist time building a airplane .I find it relaxing in its own way.I know that sounds funny but I am under alot of stress day to day with the farming..And my crops are all shot no rain since early too mid june.But anyways Thanks too eveyone that has help me with tip and the build..Please keep them comming it is helping me alot so far.


Thanks
Jason

[Wildpig]

Farming has got to be a tough life at times. My wife's grandpa, had some corn planted just for fun. It got so hot down here in the South, and no rain, that it turned into popcorn on the stalk. O.k. you know I'm joking. But, it did all wilt and turn brown.
Not sure if 10 grams for the fuselage is good or bad. Sounds a little heavy. I think someone on this forum built the same model and had a 6 gram fuse. Too keep it light, I spray one coat of clear dope or Krylon clear acrylic. If you want to paint it, try one coat of colored dope.

One trick that is commonly used to lighten the airplane is to move the motor peg forward. Let's say that the motor peg location on the plans is at Former B7, you can relocate it to Former B6. What this does is reduce the amount of weight you have in the tail area, therefore less ballast weight in the nose. The inch and a half you lose on the rubber motor length really doesn't affect performance much.

[Jason K]

What me could a person do too lighter on the fuse and others.I will do that wild pig but more could I do??? I ordered one more of the same kit I am building. I would like too build that one light as possible.



Thanks
Jason

[Wildpig]

What me could a person do too lighter on the fuse and others.I will do that wild pig but more could I do??? I ordered one more of the same kit I am building. I would like too build that one light as possible.

Thanks
Jason

If I don't say it, someone else will...cut out your own formers from Contest Grade balsa.
But, if you want to keep your Guillow's model all Guillow's, there are other things:

Open up the hole inside the formers. Remove enough balsa to reduce the width of the former to about half it's original dimension. In other words, the opening in the formers where the rubber band passes through----make it larger. You can do this when the former is still in the die cut sheet. Just draw a line with a pencil on the face of the former and slice it out. Typically, you will have a width of about 3/16" all the way around.

[BillParker]

1.. scalloped formers on the fuse:



2.. Sand the ink off the balsa before you start punching out the parts...

3.. use only every other wing former... F1 F3 F5 F7 etc...

4.. loose the landing gear (warbirds)

5.. pre shrink your tissue, as the reduced structure may crater when shrinking...

[Mitch]

Jason,

I think after you build a few models you will decide what you like to do and may not do everything.

In my 800 series Stearman, it was the first time I read on the plans, "For a rubber Free Flight Model, sand all the part to half thickness" I may just use the ribs as templetes and cut new ones in 1/32 sheet balsa. (Kit not built yet)

I do not scallop the Fuselage Ribs but I do remove excess from inside as Bill said.

Some people make new Rudder and Stabilizers. Use Plan, lay out thin lammenated strips to get the shape you what. I have NOT done this. I build as per plan, then sand to half thickness. Also the C and D parts are very large, they can be reduced. In this picture of a FW 190 tail I was able to reduce the weight from 2g to 1g. (400 series)



I read in Don Ross' Book. Balance every stringer, you will find there is a heavy side... Fuselage use heavy in front, light towards back. Wing use heavy towards CL, light toward wingtip. I have not done this before, but plan to in my next build. It may seem silly, but all these things do add up...

Good Luck, Mitch

[Jason K]

Sorry eveyone I have been busy with my farm it is unreal I am tell you. Anyways I was wondering what is washout on the wings and how do you do it. I am going to be doing the wing here shortly so I would prefer any help with this matter.Like I said I need all the help I can get on this. Hopefully I am going too get time here shortly.. Just depends on the weather.I have alot of crops to get out in a short amont of time.

I was wondering in the guillows 900 kits what would be a good one to order a few to get me going better at this. I really in joy building these kits.It is all new too me and I would like some more easy too build.I am looking at the bird dog and the chipy to build.Oh where does a person get a good balsa cutter too.


Thanks for your time
Jason