New member question about rubber powered P38

[juanwing]

Hey everyone, new member here. I'm 40 years old (disabled missing a arm and leg) I built plastic models when I was younger and raced rc cars about 5 years ago, my main hobby is golf but the summers have been really bad here in Louisiana I've been staying inside most of the summer reading Unbroken, Pappy Boyington's book Baa Baa Black Sheep and watching all of history channels DOGFIGHTS now I have planes on the brain lol. I tried doing plastic models again but it's just not doing it for me. I built a couple of Guillow's kits in the late 90's really enjoyed building them but never covered them, a P40, Bf-109 and unbuilt Corsair kit unfortunately don't have them anymore uggh. In the early 80's my dad bought my brother and I a P38 Guillow's kit that we never built, there is one at my local hobby shop and have been thinking about building it as a YIPPIE version, I don't know what year this kit was made it may be 8-10 ten years old.

Has anyone built a rubber powered Guillow's P-38 Kit #2001 that flew ok? I there enough room in the booms for rubber bands? Could a stripped down version do ok? Would taking off the plastic turbo cover and rear air scoops help with weight? From what I understand this model is pretty heavy.I have seen the youtube video of a Dumas P38, and some video of the rc conversion of the Guillow's kit. I just got hit in the leg yesterday with a rc plane so slow free flight seems a little more my speed for now. I am thinking of starting out with some of the newer laser kits first before tackling this P38.

Thanks,
Lane

[Wildpig]

Hi Lane,
I think we all have planes on the brain, here. I"ve not built the Guillow P-38. But, from what I do know about it, there is enough room in the booms for rubber bands. What it would take to make it fly, that's hard to say. There is a lot of balsa structure and plastic parts in that model. If you look at Mitch's thread about building a 400 series for $20, he has done quite a bit of alteration in basic structure to save a few grams of weight. I would think that P-38 would require extensive and intensive rework for rubber flight.
A laser cut 400 series, I think would be a good idea. Those laser kits go together very well and I think the larger models, as opposed to say the 5oo or 900 series, are easier to assemble. Those little fiddly bits in the smaller models can get frustrating.
For flying tips, again, check out Mitch's threads. He is making his to fly. The 109,P-51, and FW190.

[Mitch]

Hi Lane
Welcome...Mitch here... I am no expert, but maybe some others here would disagree.
There is room in the booms for rubber. I am planning on building the kit for rubber. We could do that together, but I would say START with a 400 series first. I have discovered a few things these past few months and I believe I could help you be successful, if you follow my advice.

1 LEAVE the P-38 on the self for now.
2 CHOISE a 400 series for your first build
3 DONT think about the 1000 series yet either.

Okay... that being said... Pick any of the 6, 400 series I built all of them in the past year... I have all the plans and can answer just about any question on them. I MAKE MISTAKES on every build I do, but my end product gets better every time.

GOOD LUCK< Mitch

[juanwing]

Thanks guys! I think I will pick up one of the new #402lc P-51 laser cut kits tomorrow. Is there a thread on here that covers what kind of supplies I need to get? I'm a little confused on what type of glue, I have a brand new bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement, I think I would prefer a wood glue the smell kind of gets to me a little bit. Mitch great job on that bf-109 that color scheme was what I was wanting mine years ago to look like.

[Wildpig]

You can use the Search... window at the top of the page and type in: glue. That will likely get you bunches of threads. Don't know one in particular. I like Ambroid glue. Most folks here, I think use Elmer's white glue.

[Mitch]

Okay then... Thank you for taking my advice, we can build the P-38 together on a later date...

On with the P-51... the Mustang is a good flyer... check out my "Fight for Germany" post... for pictures in flight. That model was built straight from the kit... The only after market part I used was LITE Tissue. But I would recommend you start with the SILKSPAN in the kit.

The glue I use for 99% of my work on these models is ELMER'S Glue-All. It's white, it's water soluable, safe, and non-toxic... You can even eat it!
Some people say the yellow wood glue sands better, but for these (small) models I do not notice a problem with WHITE GLUE.
I do use CA super glue sometimes, and 2 part epoxy but that comes later.

I will let you look though the threads, but basically you should have at least...

1. Building Board, you can use a 2x4 ceiling tile or cork board. I use Guillows Balsa Board and Magna Board with Magnets.
2. 'T' Pins. I have 2 different sizes, but my first model (when I was 10) my Mom gave let me use her pins for sewing.
3. WAX paper, to cover the plans
4. Sand paper. I have a couple of sanders, but again for my first model, my Dad gave me a block of wood and a small piece of sand paper.
5. Clamps... if you do not have them do not worry. Again in the beginning if a piece does not stay where you want it... Pin it!

That's about it... When you get your model, you can start a build thread on that... or if you like I could start a build thread... I was planning a kitbash of the P-51 into the razorback... building the aft fuselage like the P-40 Warhawk, and the Warhawk canopy... Everything else will be the same!

Your building buddy, Mitch

UPDATE... 6. X-Acto knife # 11 blade

PS Have to thow this in...

This is the best shot I have so far... about 2 weeks ago. This a a Guillows LAZER cut P-51... the ONLY after market parts used is the TISSUE... this is flying with the rubber supplied in the kit and the 7 inch propeller!

[Pauli72]

Welcome to the forum juanwing.

If you're just getting started, I would recommend that you check out the Cessna 180 group build thread on this forum. It has lots of great info & photos that will help any balsa model builder. Click on the link below.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2215

Mitch gave you some sound advice. Down the road, after some experience with a few 400 series rubber power builds, the P-38 Lightning as a rubber free flight model would make an awsome project.

Best of luck & have fun with your P-51 Mustang. If you get stuck on something, there's always someone here to help out.
Pauli

[juanwing]

Thanks for all the great replies guys, I had to run a bunch of errands this morning and my 14 year old german shepherd is having trouble walking. I'm getting ready to head out the door to pick up the kit, they have it at Hobby Lobby, I tried some of the other hobby shops in town but they just had the 900 series.

[juanwing]

Uggh, I totally forgot the 40% off coupon, I guess I was rushing to get out of here to beat the traffic.I guess it could have been worse, I'm just glad I was aware enough to avoid getting run off the road by a school bus .Bogey three o'clock!

Great pic Mitch!
That's great news on the glue, I may have both yellow and Elmers. I also have some two part epoxy that I use to put golf clubs together it's got lap shear strength of 4,500psi
I have foam board and some wax paper.
I just got rid of a great hobby table but there is anther desk in the other room I can use, I also have piece of smooth marble I can cut parts on. That magna board looks great!

Thanks Wildpig I totally forgot about the search window, sure beats going back page by page.

Thanks for the link Pauli72. Yeah I agree, I think I will hold off on tackling that P38.


Do the 500 and 900 kits achieve better flight times compared to the 400 kits? I remember having a hard time just cutting out the pieces from my 500 series 109.

[Mitch]

What 40 % off coupon?... Is it still good?... Next time you are at the shop get a FW or Me to go up against that 51.

I was impressed myself with that flight... The soccer kids even stopped and looked up... It was pretty cool...

Don't expect long flights... Mine have only lasted a few seconds... But they REALLY CAN FLY!!!

I have thought the same question about the 500/900 and I do NOT KNOW, but my suspecion is they would do better inside... with my new 109F even shaving off a few grams I see that the breeze upsets her flight!

My idea is I like the scale look of the Guillow kits and they are at there best in the larger 400/1000/2000 series. the 500/900 are what I call box scale... they are slightly off but all built to the same ws or box size.

I was even reluctant to increase the ws on my second 109... But C'est la Vie...

I am still learning about tan rubber and need to build a proper stooge... but you just need to take your time and enjoy the build... Mine did not fly this well the first time around, but I will share my knowledge...

Mitch

[Pauli72]

I just got rid of a great hobby table but there is anther desk in the other room I can use, I also have piece of smooth marble I can cut parts on.

Hi Juanwing,
Just a heads up on cutting balsa (or anything else) on a marble surface. The edge on your cutting tool, whether it's a kitchen knife or X-Acto blade, will get very dull, very quickly. If you can, use a cutting mat from the hobby store, or a ceiling tile works great too.

@ Mitch. Hobby Lobby has a weekly coupon special you can download. http://www.hobbylobby.com/weekly/coupon.cfm
It's always 40% off any 1 item on your next visit.

[Mitch]

I think you will like the 400 series kits... With lazer cut parts they will go together easier and straighter with less effort.

I did not want to overwhelm you with tools... But I agree DO NOT CUT on the marble table, I would just back it up with a piece of cardboard and when that wears out, replace it. But a Cutting Mat and Steel Ruler would be nice, but not necessary.

I just now see in Guillow new catalog 10-11 on page 20 they have a list of basic tools. Steel ruler and cutting mat are amoung them... Also tweezers. Reverse pinching action type... and actually I just bought a pair like that the last time I was at my Hobby Shop. My tool supply increases with each build.

So when you have some questions... I hope to see you on a NEW THREAD for P-51 Build!
I have the plans right in front of me as that is what I am using for my Me 262.

Mitch

PS No HOBBY LOBBY near me



PS If you want a Magna-Board they are available from easybuiltmodels.com, comes in 2 sizes with magnets, also that is were I get my paper they have LITE tissue in 28 colors... It would take 2 sheets of paper to cover a 400 series kit!

[juanwing]

I think I was more concerned with messing up the smooth topped white desk in the other room, its built into the wall with some shelves kinda don't want to mess that up. I have a plastic folding table outside in storage that I'm going to use, it has more space. Got some glue today and glue today just need a few more things and I'm ready to start.

Great looking Mustang! I was looking at pics last night for some color schemes, How did you do the black part on the top of the nose is that paint or tissue.

[Mitch]

J

The only paint on the 'stang is on the Cowling, painted yellow, then applied little sqaures of red electrical tape. Canopy frame, masked and sprayed silver. And inside cockpit, again masked and sprayed light green only where one will see when you look into the cockpit.

I would suggest spend some time looking over the plans and assemble your tools and get your work area ready.

I prefer to sand all parts, while in sheet so I do not break them. I do not paint my models so any marks on the wood will show thow the skin. Some parts I can wait and sand after assemble as in the E and C and D parts. I just lay all the E parts down. When I sand the bottom of the wing. I sand until I remove the marks.

This model is covered all over with LITE silver paper, except the top of the fwd fuselage covered in Black LITE paper.

M

PS painted the exhaust pipes and underwing air scoop also.