400 series group shot

[Mitch]

Hi Guys,

I have been busy at work and getting computer problems worked out.

Here is a pic of all 6 400 series. Need to be balanced, and test flown. I am reading Don Ross' book, but did not read it before the builds. I am not too optimistic for good flights but will take the best plane and rebuild with new information.



For example... I had an extra FW 190 tail. Built stock, weighed at 2 grams, then did some work with my dremel and got it down to 1 gram... That computes to a savings of 4 grams because of counter wt to balance.

I built these kits pretty much stock from the box.



If you guys fly do you use stock propeller assembly or a better bushing? I plan to use stock prop, try to get it ballanced, but wonder if you use a glass bead or something for smoother spin?

Mitch

[Wildpig]

Man, that is a nice looking air armada you got there. I especially like how you did the multi-color on the Spitfire.

I typically use the stock propeller, although, I don't know what kind of prop comes with the 400 series. I think some of the props supplied with the kits are a tad small. The thrust button, typically, is not that good. It's open at the back end and allows the prop shaft to wiggle too much. I make my own thrust button out of Delrin. Turn them down a lathe. No washers or glass beads, for me. I have seen glass beads used. Not sure what effect they have. I read somewhere that some Free Flight competitions do not allow glass beads.Maybe they give an unfair advantage????

I like what you did with the -190 tail. There are some people that would argue that saving 1 gram of weight doesn't matter. But, as you aptly pointed out, that reduces the amount of ballast needed. 4 grams is a decent reduction.

[Mitch]

Hi Guys,

Just a few thoughts and observations from my flights of these 400 series.

1. If they are built carefully they will FLY.
2. The 7" propeller is adequate for flight. I tried a larger propeller and it seemed not to work as well.
3. The grey Guillows rubber supplied with the kit is adequate, but will wear out, after a dozen or so flights.
4. Although I am still tweeking the trim on these models I got them all to fly, although some just for a test glide.
5. My heaviest plane the Spitfire, flew fairly well, the larger wing area offset the extra weight.
6. All models need trim tab to offset power torque to ease left turn. Each model needs its own trimming and some more than others.
7. Even without streach winding, when the grey rubber is wound until double knots, that should be enough for a powered flight.
8. I eventually had an access hole under the peg in all my models. Made installing the rubber motor very easy.
9. Although some of my models the tail looked like a potato chip, this did not seem to affect the flight too bad.
10. My building gets better with each model and I am sure yours will too!

My real passion is for WW1 planes and I will be starting a Herr Kit 24" ws Fokker D-7 that I believe will fit in nicely with my Guillows Fokker Dr1 and Kitbashed Fokker D-8. I am taking a break from my Me 262 build and just want to build a kit from the box! In the future I plan to Kitbash another Dr1 into a Fokker D-6! The D-6 is basically a longer Dr1 body with a shortened D-7 wings. So I will make the shorter D7 wing from the Herr Kit Plans and put that on a lengthened Dr1 body. Presto I'll have a Fokker D-6!

I don't know if I should post my progress of the Herr Kit on this site?
I could build them side by side, and call it the Guillows Kitbash?

Mitch

[paul]

Hi.....I was thinking of putting coloured tissue over the white before doping (as a newbie, this new craft is all I seem to think about)
Then to my surprise I found some coloured tissue in my local modellers shop. Then saw your pictures. Is this how you got the effect on the spitfire?

[Mitch]

Short Answer...Yes

Expanded Answer... You can use the white paper from the kit and dope it and once the paper is sealed, paint that. I have seen pictures of models that are painted fly. I believe that will end up with a heavier model and it was my desire to keep them as light as possible. I also like the look of the paper on the model without paint. So... what I do is for my models that have camo. The Spitfire and the Focke-Wulf, I applied the light color first, Tan or Lt Grey. Then I precut to shape the pieces I want to over lay on that, Green or Dk Grey.

Steps:

1. Cover entire model with paper, (model is not assembled)
2. I covered undersides first, then topsides in one color. (In some cases an extra stringer was added to follow the color line)
3. Wet paper to shrink
4. Apply one coat of dope
5. Cut out camo sections that will lay over, (start with tail as it is small and flat)
6. Lighty wet pieces of overlay with spray bottle and lay on towel to remove excess water
7. Brush dope over area to be covered and lay down wet paper on that, Apply dope and get paper sealed down
8. I made the overlays as small as possible to handle, but large enough to do the job.
9. The larger patches are two pieces (You can see the seam)
10. Assemble model
11. Put another coat of dope to get everthing sealed in well
12. Apply decals

After all that is done, I really don't know if it would be any heavier if I just painted the model?

I came up with this process as I saw Questions about this and the Answers where saying... "it can't be done"... I don't believe in "it can't be done". But it might be difficult and tricky and the results are a heavier model... but it's whatever you want to do!

I did these six models before I was posting so I do not have build pictures... I also plan to avoid camo jobs as much as possible, but when I do it again I will have a post.

My suggestion... If this is your FIRST build... DO NOT attempt this. Use the white paper in the kit, 2 coats of dope to seal the paper and then lightly spray with airbrush or use those little "rattle" cans.

GOOD LUCK!


Spitfire... 3 colors Lt Grey on bottom with Tan and Green topsides


Focke-Wulf... 4 colors Lt Blue on botom with Dk Grey over Lt Grey on top, also Black Marking on sides are overlay

Mitch

[paul]

Hi ....Thankyou for the reply. Very informative and appreciated.
I am at the stage of applying tissue to the model. I am going to practice your advice on my first attempt to which my granddaughter took a shine too and broke the front. I kept the rear 2/3rds of the plane for purposes such as this.
Coming from static plastic, it only has to look nice, I think its to early a stage for me to make one that flies.
Got to learn a lot more. And from this forum, I will succeed.
Thanks again

[Mitch]

Good to know I helped...just curious which model are you building, what series? My purpose was weight saving, but people who see my models, specifically the Spitfire like the colored paper look. It definately has a special appeal! Good to know you are okay with handling failure... I still have as many things go wrong as go right... That's the way it is with these models, especially if you try to fly them... Mitch

[paul]

Hi Mitch...It is the Spitfire Mk1 series 500. Kit 504
I was thinking out aloud when I last posted about using tissue for colouring. I just wanted to make sure this can be done.
Painting plastic and it goes wrong, get some model strip, remove the paint to the bare bone, and try again. Somehow I feel this cant be done with this craft. Once painted there's no going back
Looking at your pictures and others, you can see the workmanship that has taken place.
Time and effort I think is more expensive than the model itself. As long as I have enjoyed making whatever I build, doesn't matter if its a failure or success.