900 Series Skyraider Build

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900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby kittyfritters » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:29 pm

I am doing a 900 Series Skyraider for the "G" Challenge this year. The Skyraider has been on my small building board for some months but has been sidetracked by more pressing projects. Since there are only 14 days left in this year's "G" Challenge I figured that I had better get to it. Of course I know someone who builds his contest models the night before the contest, but that is another story.

The wood in this kit is quite light but a tad on the brittle side. I had to sand the back sides of the sheets to get the parts out.

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And, even then I still had to do some cutting.

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Fortunately, the sheets containing the fuselage sides were approximately the same density and grain structure, so the fuselage went together straight without any trouble.

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The noses of the 900 series kits tend to be a little weak so I do a little fill in to make them easier to handle on the ground.

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Sanded down, the filled area makes a better looking cowl anyway.

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More pictures as it comes together.
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby Bill Gaylord » Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:47 pm

Looks good. I did something similar with the cowl area also, as it really enhances the scale looks of the plane. I've been thinking about building another that may have a chance of flying, as mine is far too heavy with standard iron-on covering built some years ago.
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby WIDDOG » Fri Nov 09, 2012 6:44 am

Wow really looks good. I like the front end.
Last edited by WIDDOG on Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby kittyfritters » Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:54 pm

I did get a little farther along with the Skyraider. The nose block is finished with it's key. The flat plate nose block is a sandwich of 1/64" plywood, balsa and 1/64" plywood. The front of former 'A' is also faced with 1/64" plywood. Most people say this is unnecessary, but I have been flying my Typhoon, with a similar setup, for 8 years now.

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I'm flying it "gear up" but wanted landing gear for display. I made some detachable "wheel wells" that are held on with rare earth magnets to a couple of small pieces of steel (cat food can lid) glued to the ribs under the covering. There is also a small piece of steel on the rear former to hold on the tailwheel and tailhook. The struts are wire wrapped with paper. They are not glued on to the "wheel wells" in the photo, but will be glued in after the back of the front strut covers and the struts have been painted. The square loops in the wires go around the magnets when they are glued in. Another piece of steel is under the middle of the fuselage for an intended Mk XIII torpedo.

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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby kittyfritters » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:58 pm

Well, this is embarrassing. This turned out to be the worst effort I have made at model building since I returned to the hobby. It was rushed, there were dumb mistakes made, the tissue I chose for color turned out to be C$%%, and things generally went wrong where I would usually have started over. This is a prime example of what can happen if you have too many projects on the bench at once. I would not have shown it to you except that I wanted you to see how the magnetic wheel well feature for detachable landing gear worked out. Oh yes, despite the rough appearance, it does fly.

On the gear.

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Gear off.

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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby dhkelly » Thu Dec 13, 2012 9:02 am

I'm building my first balsa and tissue model, the same 900 series Skyraider, and I hoped you would take a minute to explain the nose block. The kit instructions say nothing about a nose block. What is the advantage or purpose of the keyway and the 1/64" plywood nose block? I was going to glue the plastic cowl to former A, with the enclosed part AA "wood bearing", per the kit instructions.
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby kittyfritters » Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:52 am

The removable nose block serves two purposes. One is to make thrust line adjustments easier when trimming the model to fly. Without some kind of adjustable nose block you have to try to put tiny wedges of wood or paper behind the edge of the thrust button to adjust the thrust line...not easy to do. The second is to provide better access to the fuselage when loading and winding a motor.

The thrust line must be adjusted to get flying stability under power. After you get the model to glide properly, you need to adjust the thrust line, up, down, right, or left, so that the torque of the motor does not spin the model into the ground and so that it is not pulled into the ground or made to climb too fast and stall. You do this by putting wedges between the nose block and the first former to tilt the nose block in the desired direction. Torque, with a usual right-handed propeller (turns clockwise when viewed from the rear), tends to pull the model to the left. This is more noticeable with a low winged model like the Skyraider. Since the model will tend to turn to the left and climb too fast with the burst of power that you get from a rubber motor when first released, a good place to start with thrust line adjustments is 2 degrees right thrust and 2 degrees down thrust. Start with a low number of winds on the motor and test fly, working up to the number of winds necessary for long flights as you adjust. Low winged models, flown outdoors, tend to fly left under power and glide right. High winged models usually fly right, right.

It is important when making an adjustable nose block to have some kind of key that fits snuggly into the first former and only fits in one direction. A loose nose block will cause bad flights. Often modelers use tiny rare earth magnets, (Like I used for the landing gear.) facing each other or a thin piece of steel, to hold the nose block in place. The trapezoidal box key, that you see in the picture above, works well although there are many other ways to do it. In the case of the Skyraider, I filled the plastic cowl with a balsa former that has the 1/64" plywood on the back face and the key built into the back of it. An identical piece of plywood is glued to the front of the first former in the fuselage. The plywood is just there to give some additional durability since the balsa is soft. All these parts were carefully laid out before the fuselage was assembled so that they would line up.

Here is an example of a trapezoidal key built into the nose of another model.

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I hope this is not too confusing and helps you.

Howard
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby twospruces » Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:01 pm

Great info, thanks.
Can you explain how this nose block gets adjusted? What does a shim look like and how does it get held in place? thanks
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby ADW 123 » Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:07 pm

a shim can be a small bit of balsa. a small drop of glue will hold it on. nothing fancy
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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby Mitch » Tue Dec 25, 2012 10:41 am

I think your model looks great! Although I have read about nose blocks, and thurst direction before, I appreiciate to read it again. I myself am trying to get these models to fly and feel I am at the verge of getting better flights and flight time. My next WW2 model will include nose block and removalbe gear.

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Re: 900 Series Skyraider Build

Postby Scott » Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:51 pm

Your Skyraider looks great to me.
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