Try to fly 904 Skyraider

[hellcat]

I messed up former e so rather than cutting the former out and cut a new one I ran the stringers straight across going to cover it And not run the canopy. Its going to be a flight trainer
Im guessing you dont glue the rear motor mount? Do I glue the thrust Bearing?
What else do I need to know to fly it

[Wildpig]

You should not glue the motor mount. You will have to occasionally remove it to change the rubber motor.
Do not glue the thrust bearing, either.
I'll post a link that explains what is needed to fly the model.

If you are using the rubber that came with the kit, green or blue, don't wind it past 100 turns. AND it will snap after 3 or 4 flights. You could buy some gray rubber from Guillow or your local hobby shop. Best solution: order some TAN II rubber from any online hobby source.

[Wildpig]

Here is some information about flying from another thread. These are my trimming instructions.

It's called Trimming.
You did right with a few test glides.
*Get the model balanced properly according to the plans.
Next, you will probably need to add a trim tab on the elevator. Check out Mitch's thread with his 400 series P-51 and other WWII models. Search the forum for: trim tab
You want the model to have a shallow, slow glide. No pitching up and down and no rolling to the left or right, either. This may require a trim tab on the rudder or on a wing.
*Keep making test glides, preferably over tall grass,adjusting the trim tabs until it has a nice steady glide.

Once you have a glide set up, lets just say that it glides at 4 mph. When you wind that rubber motor and let the model go, it will want to fly at 4 mph. But,the rubber motor tries to propel the model at say...20 mph. The only way it will stay at 4 mph is in a climb. With a balsa model that is usually a very steep climb and sometimes will even do a loop. The 4 mph is known as it's trim speed. An airplane will always try to fly at it's trim speed. This principle is true for any conventional airplane, regardless of size.

The bad part is that this steep climb leads to a stall and usually the model plummets straight into the ground and then you have a very discouraged balsa modeler.
To counter this effect, just add a downthrust shim under the thrust button. Search the forum for: downthrust shim.
You kind of have to guess with the amount of downthrust but, a 1/16" strip of balsa will probably be plenty. Might have to shave it a little thinner.
Questions.... comments???

Wildpig

Posts: 231
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 10:41 am

[Wildpig]

By the way, the shim under the thrust bearing is a crude but, effective way of getting the model trimmed.
Take a look around the forum for: adjustable nose block. Definitely, a better way of doing things.

Also, I recommend that you glue a piece of balsa between the gap of the bottom spars and Former F. This joins the spars to the fuselage and helps the wings stay attached when a wingtip hits the ground. The balsa insert is just a piece of leftover from your sheet stock; cut it the same width as the fuselage and about 1/2 inch tall.

[hellcat]

thanks Wildpig let me do some reading

[Wildpig]

look in the upper, left- hand corner of your Skyraider building plan, there is a drawing of how to install the thrust shim.

I'm sure you noticed the ADJUSTING AND FLYING MODEL instructions on your Skyraider plans. I say forget about steaming the control surfaces, I recommend the trim tabs, instead.

[hellcat]

Thanks everybody still to windy to try