Anything To Do With 500 Series Kits.

[WIDDOG]

Thanks for the advice. It was easy enough to do and I think it will definitely help the looks of my model.

[Mitch]

YES! VERY NICE! That's the way to go! Mitch

[WIDDOG]

This is an image of an ole green Cox Stuka Dive Bomber. If I remember correctly they used to sell them at Kmart. Anyway I always wanted one but never had one. I am going to make my Stuka’s underside green like the Cox Stuka. I knew I remembered an all green Stuka from somewhere.

[Grabber]

WIDDOG,

Looks like you are making nice progress, The yellow tail will look good.

Grabber

[WIDDOG]

I use Acrylic floor shine instead of Dope to cover my models. Ok nothing new here. However, I recently read that if Acrylic paint is going to be used to paint the windshield? Than painting on a coat of floor shine helps the paint to stick better to the windshield. I’m testing this tip out. I coated the windshield with the floor shine. Since it is clear it looks no different. I will now start to paint and let you know.

[WIDDOG]

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Ok Wow putting a coat of Floor Shine on the windshield before painting it ? It is Powerful Medicine. I highly recommend it!

[kittyfritters]

I use Acrylic floor shine instead of Dope to cover my models. Ok nothing new here. However, I recently read that if Acrylic paint is going to be used to paint the windshield? Than painting on a coat of floor shine helps the paint to stick better to the windshield. I’m testing this tip out. I coated the windshield with the floor shine. Since it is clear it looks no different. I will now start to paint and let you know.

Try the ultimate acrylic floor emulsion, Armstrong Shine Keeper. It's about $14.50 a half gallon at Home Depot or Lowe's. I've been both brushing and airbrushing it on tissue mixed 50/50 with rubbing alcohol. Fills silkspan and takes acrylic paint or ink well. So far, seems to be almost as waterproof as dope.

[WIDDOG]

Well while I am waiting for parts to dry I snapped off a pic of my Stuka's lower wing. BTW I am making “Air Brakes” and will add them on here when the glue dries. I remember packing this unfinished Stuka kit up at the end of last summer. I thought I was done with Rubber Power FF for ever. Now I have a total renewed interest in it.

[Mitch]

Found this in my closet yesterday... I made this a while ago and... never finished, all the pieces were in the box... tucked away for a rainy day.


Bf109 500 series

Since I have been working with 400's lately, I was surprised how heavy the frame is. The major pieces add up to 18g. I think that is very heavy for a model of this size... I removed the peg retainer "L" pieces... Thought when I finish it off I would cover with silkspan paper a then try airbrushing, then catapult launch as a glider!

But first I have a lot of other jobs to finish... Mitch

[WIDDOG]

I am working on a Noseblock design. Well new to me at least.

[WIDDOG]

I am getting to that sage of my present build where it is time to start thinking about my next 500 Series kit. I consider myself to be at a intermediate skill level at both building and flying. I will post photo of my next 500 Series kit build with the prospective of a Intermediate level builder. Hopefully I will get some building tips from the readers. As I hope to someday advance to the next skill level of building and flying.

BTW I have a ole set of Comet plans for an 20 inch wing span Corsair. Although technically this is not a Guillow’s 500 Series kit... The plans have been reduced to give the kit a 16 ½ inch wing span.

[atesus]

I am working on a Noseblock design. Well new to me at least.

Hi Widdog, great work on the Stuka.

I couldn't exactly see your nose block arrangement on the picture. In any event, I suggest that you design the nose block so that the button rests on a structure attached to the rest of the fuselage structure and not on the plastic cowling. The cowling material usually flexes under the tension of the rubber and may cause the thrust line to change during the course of motor run. Maybe the 500 series cowlings are more rigid than 400 series (they are smaller with the same material thickness) so this is not a big problem but better to be on the safe side.

Best,

--Ates

[WIDDOG]

Hello Atesus!

I just wanted to say I got a chance to see the video of your work with the 400 Series kits! I am very impressed with your work. It is definitely nice know that model builders like yourself are out there and so willing to give good advice.

I truly appreciate and understand your advice about the cowling. I don’t really know how well the cowling will hold up. In the past I never trusted the plastic cowling, they always seemed to stretch out where they meet the fuselage. So on my experimental 500 series kit 507 I used a built up Balsa Wood cowling.

Instead of the fuselage being “Sanded Down” to fit “Inside” the cowling, I butted it against the fuselage with a “Tongue and Grove” style Noseblock. I will “Bench Test” it and report the results.

[WIDDOG]

What we got here is a set of Guillow’s plans copyrighted in 1954. What I did was downloaded them, reduced them 82.5% and printed them out with my printer. I had to cut, fit and past them together as well. This will give me a 16.5 “ inch wing span Corsair that should fit in with my 500 series kits. I am going to post the build here because I’m sure I will have several questions.

I decided to start with the wing. I don’t have what Guillow’s called “ The Angle Block” I will have to set the angled wing ribs by “Eye”.

[WIDDOG]

I was able to finish the Stuka today. When I was looking for the Corsair plans I saw plans for a Guillow’s version of a Stuka “No Cal” model.( Sorry about the poor quality of the picture. I couldn’t attach it as a file so I took a picture of the screen.) Anyway the plans say it was Copyrighted in 1954. I would really love it if Guillow’s brought those kits back.