Another dopey question

[larryc]

Hello
I'm sure this has been covered but here is my dilemma. I recently ordered some colored dope from Brodak. I guess I never learned to read. I was wanting to order nitrate dope but instead wound up ordering butryate. My tissue has been sealed with krylon clear spray. My question is can I go ahead and use what I have to finish the model with or do I need to use an acrylic paint instead? Again I apologize if this has been posed before. I love the forum and have gotten back into model building which I do enjoy. Anyway thanks for the help and have a wonderful day.

[Mitch]

Good Morning...

I will answer the best I can. The only reason to use Butrate Dope is because it is "hot fuel proof" for those little gas engines we used to use.
Nitrate is suppose to have better shrinking properties, but I seem to get all the paper shrinking from water.
In recent times people use watered down white glue or Krylon spray as you did.
The purpose I believe you dope the paper is to seal the paper and make it stronger. It seems you did that with your Krylon spray.

I see no reason to use the dope you have for this project. I think it would be easier to paint the model with acrylic paints...

Hope that helps, Mitch

[larryc]

I had that in the back of my mind that would be the answer. Thank you for your input.

[squirlye]

If you have sealed your plane with krylon,you cannot use any type of dope over it. I know this from experience. But I think acrylic will work.

[larryc]

Thank you sir. I kind of figured that but I like other opinions. Sometimes I don't think straight. Computers and fat fingers do not mix. Again thank you.

[kittyfritters]

There is a chart on page 115 of the Don Ross book, "Flying Models that explains the compatibility of finishing materials quite well. Krylon, in the 1300 series, comes under the heading of acrylic lacquer. Butyrate dope is NOT compatible over acrylics, Nitrate dope IS. Acrylics are ARE compatible over Butyrate dope, and Nitrate dope. They are not compatible over Aerogloss dope (if you still have some). I know this from experience. I have been airbrushing my models with opaque acrylic artist's inks. They come in a wide range of colors and are lighter than the acrylic paints. They are a little more costly, but come in larger bottles and are do not require any thinning for airbrush work. If I am doing a WWII German airplane I use Testor's Acryl brand acrylics since they have a complete line of "official" RLM colors.

I have been using Krylon #1303 (Gloss) and #1311 (Matt) successfully since 2004. Some of the models I made that year are still flyable with the original tissue. Lately, I have been using #1305 (Gloss) because it is UV resistant. The only reason I have been using nitrate dope since 2004 is when I need a model to be absolutely waterproof, i.e. a seaplane.

I have been experimenting with Armstrong Shine Keeper, an industrial strength acrylic emulsion used to restore shine to severely worn 'no wax' floors. I have been mixing it 50/50 with 70% rubbing alcohol and brushing or airbrushing it in place of Krylon or dope to fill and fix tissue. So far it has worked well on both tissue and silkspan. You can paint over it with acrylics, but I have not tried colored nitrate dope over it. The chief advantages of Shine Keeper are low odor, water cleanup (if you are fast) and a price of $14.50 a half gallon at Home Depot or Lowe's.

[larryc]

I want to thank everyone for taking their time to answer my dopey question. I have gathered a ton of information and I really enjoy this forum. It's user friendly and there are some really good people here with a ton of knowledge. I enjoy this and I really do appreciate the help.