My FW 190

[Coryphodon]

Hello guys,
I am pleased to let you know that I just received my FW 190 kit.
I ordered the kit over 2 months ago…



Needless to say, it seems that here in France the distribution
network for these (Guillows) products is certainly not the fastest.
Anyways, I hope to prevail upon your talents while
I work on my model.
Thanks in advance

[Mitch]

That's GREAT... is it the 400 series or 500 series? Mitch

[Coryphodon]

Hi Mitch,
It's the 406, 1/16th scale.
Anyways I presume this project will take me
several months (yes, I'm a real klutz)


thanks for your interest

[Mitch]

Hi Cory,

After I finish my 1/16 scale P-39 Airacobra, I plan to build a ALL NEW 1/16 scale FW. I will use a Guillows kit but make improvements for rubber power! The 1/16 scale is my favorite size. It has a nice scale look and when they fly! It will make you smile!

Are you building for static display, motorized or rubber power? Mitch

[Coryphodon]

I have chosen the 400 series because
it uses a 1/16th scale which incidentally is the same
scale used by companies such as
Heng Long or Tamiya for their Radio-controlled tank models.

As noted in a previous post, I think rubber-band power is the best choice
for my modest requirements, i.e., strafing runs against my tank models
lasting approximately half a minute.
I am not planning to motorize the FW 190.

Good luck with your projects.

Regards

[Coryphodon]

Hello again,
OK, I scanned the plans for my airplane model and I will proceed to
print out a copy and pin it to a carboard board.
According to the instructions, one should begin with the keel of the fuselage frame.
I think I will use Elmer's white glue
unless someone could recommend a better choice...
thanks in advance

[David Lewis]

Aliphatic resin (Elmer's Carpenter's, Franklin Titebond, etc.) I think is easier to sand, stronger and more flexible. I thin the glue with water to help it absorb better. If you can afford it, DeLuxe Materials SuperPhatic is the best. There is also the technique of double gluing where you allow the first coat to soak in and then after a few minutes add a second thin coat immediately prior to assembly.

[Coryphodon]

Thanks, Dave.

By the way, if any user of this forum is interested in my scans for the FW 190 model, just
contact me via the message box.

[Bill Gaylord]

Hi Mitch,
It's the 406, 1/16th scale.
Anyways I presume this project will take me
several months (yes, I'm a real klutz)


thanks for your interest

They go faster as you keep building more Guillows FW190s.
This is my favorite Guillows plane. Had to build 2 of each size, and could still build a few more 400 series FW190s.

[Coryphodon]

Absolutely, Bill, as they say "practice makes perfect"

[Coryphodon]

Hello guys,
I have assembled one half of the fuselage and
I was wondering if it would be easier to assemble the other half
(keels included) and then cement both
halves together ; or should I follow the kit’s instructions
and glue former by former (beginning with the central ones)
and then paste the keels on the other side.

I am posting this question before proceeding because I am afraid
that the formers could fail coming in contact one with another, while attempting
to glue them together, especially the central ones.


In any case, thanks for your help

[Mitch]

This is the trickiest part of the build for me. And I never seem to get the frames perfectly square and straight, although I am getting better and one does not notice small imperfections in the final build.

My answer is do as they say. After the side keel is in, remove and add the other halves of frames. I use claips and sticks to keep things together at that point.

Mitch

[BillParker]

See if this is helpful:



Starting at the rear, attach your fuse formers using a square to keep them at 90 degrees to your work surface...



Put your side keel in place and cement. Then carefully remove the fuse half from the work surface, flip it over and begin attaching your fromers on the new side. Using small clamps, hold scrap sticks in place to help keep the new side formers perpendicular to the structure.



when finished, add your side keel. Now, you can add the stringers, (longerons) alternating sides until you have em all done...

[Coryphodon]

Thanks guys for your help
Now, I can start stringing the fuselage.
By the way, I wonder what should be the maximum total weight
for the airplane. I imagine it will not be able to fly
if it weighs over 220 grams.
Also, should former BB be installed at a slant or at a right angle, i.e., 90° ?

[Mitch]

I don't think 220 grams is too heavy, if that includes a .049 gas engine to power the model. For rubber flight that is way too heavy, sorry.
My FW getting test glides is weighing in at 75 grams. That is w/o rubber and prop, so my final AUW will be closer to 90 grams.
I expect that you should be able to have a model at not much more than 100 grams, following Guillow's instructions.

BB is at an angle, refer to side plan picture of the plane. It would not look right at 90 degrees. I did not use L4's as my fit was not perfect. I tried and they did not fit correctly. I substituted with larger pieces of scrap balsa, got the angle correct, installed, then trimmed them down. They need to be in there otherwise you will have a gap between the canopy and the fuselage.

Mitch