Anything To Do With 500 Series Kits.

[WIDDOG]

Sorry about the misquote. I was just trying to give credit to where credit was deserved. I really appreciate tips people give. Thanks for posting the information I think it is very useful. I am definitely going to try it out on my next kit 507 build.

[Mitch]

Hey Guys... Just got home and have 24 hours off! I forgot my camera so you will have to wait 12 days for updated pics. Got a box from AC Supply! Got my 500 series Lutwaffe and 3 other NEW kits... the Beaver, Porter and Edge!

Plan to build up some 500 series and experiment with lighter wood. I also have a Diel's Engineering Ta-152 kit! It's not exactly the 500 series size but if it I get her to fly I will blow up the plans to 400 series size!

I think I have enough to keep me busy for the next 2 weeks, Then 2 weeks home before the next FLYING EVENT!

Keep Building... Keep Flying... Keep having FUN! Mitch

PS The plans for the Ta-152 show LARGER stabilizer and NORMAL size rudder!!!

[WIDDOG]

I'm not sure if Guillow's owns the rights to these ole Sterling Model kits. I do know for sure that they do not have a 500 Series Corsair. Anyway I am building a Sterling Peanut Scale Model Corsair. Sterling claimed it's as a fine flyer if instructions are followed closely. Anyway it is designed for rubber power and I will see for myself if it flies or not. If it does fly well maybe Guillow's will think about reproducing it. I am at what I think is a critical part of the build gluing the wings to the fuselage. I think if the dihedral is off it won't fly. Oh well gotta keep on build schedule.

[Bill Gaylord]

I'm not sure if Guillow's owns the rights to these ole Sterling Model kits. I do know for sure that they do not have a 500 Series Corsair. Anyway I am building a Sterling Peanut Scale Model Corsair. Sterling claimed it's as a fine flyer if instructions are followed closely. Anyway it is designed for rubber power and I will see for myself if it flies or not. If it does fly well maybe Guillow's will think about reproducing it. I am at what I think is a critical part of the build gluing the wings to the fuselage. I think if the dihedral is off it won't fly. Oh well gotta keep on build schedule.

The wingspan being slightly larger than the 500 series kits makes them interesting, especially for what I do with the little models. I've thought about picking up a few of these small warbirds on Ebay, especially the Corsair since I've never built one. The Herr Corsair is a good bit larger, but looks like an attractive light design for larger scale rubber power.

The gull wings definitely are a bit testy, if you want perfect alignment. Worth the effort though, as I spent considerable time with the 500 Stuka, and ended up with a pleasantly much better than expected flyer. It's probably the most roll stable micro I've flown, being very self-correcting. Hopefully this one will work out well for you.

[WIDDOG]

FYI this is the Sterling Models Peanut Series Corsair Kit P 4. I made a copy of everything and cut out the parts from my own wood. This way I have the complete kit to work with if I want to build it again. This is of course because they don't make the kits anymore. I would love to see this kit come back in Laser Cut form.
As far as flying goes I haven't really picked the best flyers in the past. Mostly I go for a model I like and than try and fly it. Although I'm not very good at flying I am getting better. I think your correct about the Gull wing going to make this one a tough to fly model to add to my list. Anyway thanks for wishing me luck.

"We Who Are About To FF Salute You."

[WIDDOG]

I decided to order a Lancer kit and post my build on it. Till it arrives by mail I decided to revisit a model I had packed up a year ago. It has been awhile but i'm going to try and finish it and fly it this time.

[DenisCullinan]

[quote="WIDDOG"][img]http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/124/noseblock002.jpg[/img]

I am working on a Noseblock design. Well new to me at least.[/quote]

Hello Widdog,
Just love that Stuka!
Did you paint the nose yellow yourself? I'm looking for advice on painting those vacformed cowls, etc., that you get in the kits. Will ordinary Testor's enamel paint cover the plastic adequately? (Can I use ordinary hardware store mineral spirits to clean my brushes after using Testor's?)
Keep up the great work.
Thanks,................Denis Cullinan

[WIDDOG]

Hi Denis,

Thanks much for the encouraging words.

Quick note my Stuka made the Guillow's Model Builders photos page on the website a couple of months ago.

Anyway the way I did the Stuka's plastic parts was to spray primer them with Krylon primer and than paint brush painted it with Acrylic paint. I have recently started to brush paint/primer the plastic parts with Pledge Future Floor Shine and than brush paint them with Acrylic paint. All the items I use are available at Wal Mart.
The good thing about the Acrylic floor shine and paint is that they clean up with water. Also they can be thinned out with water. BTW I buy my paint brushes at Wal Mart as well. I get very good Artist brushes. Like I said they clean up good as new with water. What I recommend is you try the Acrylic floor shine method and Acrylic paint method. Another thing is I use the Acrylic floor shine vs. Dope to "Seal/Finish" the tissue on the model. This may sound kind of strange but it does have it's good points.

[Mitch]

Not a 500 but close in scale...

My "walnut" sized P-17 low wing Military Trainer:


So if you need a trainer...
I plan to cover in blue/yellow and enter in "Low Wing Military Trainer", and YES there is a category for that at FAC!

It has a very nice landing gear attachment, that I plan to carry over to my 500 Stuka!

[rayd]

Say Widdog...those Guillows warbirds were always great to build...though flying can be limited on rubber power especially the really older die cut ones. I crashed many. I'm thinking often how to lighten 'em up for a flying chance on rubber. Horsing around also with non-rubber, even thinking about oddball lightweight windups Rube Goldberg styles. Had too many hanging from ceiling. Maybe will try to adapt systems from Guillows R/C toys or equiv. Sadly, I botched up some piecemeal systems, and H.O. gauge trains. Gotta watch budget now paying off hurricane bills. Would be nice if Guillows had a nice balsa version, with simple lightweight R/C included, but gather it could be pricey. Dream on I guess.

If you use your own wood, and visit eg Micheal's craft store, they carry quite a bit of loose balsa sheets, various thicknesses, most by Revell. (Watch for coupons in paper.) Thing is you can pick and choose. I've purchased really contest grade light stuff, yet next sheet might be like old tough heavyweights. Same price as lighter ones. The beefier ones I'll use where I feel more strength needed. Pick and choose helps, a little. Balsa might cost more than on-line bulk, but your choice of strength, and coupons help a bit if you can get. Oh, nice pix you and the guys have there.

[WIDDOG]

Thanks for the posts! I have been working on my flying. I have been getting better. http://youtu.be/kTnUMI75SzQ I decided to return to my work with the 500 Series kits. I think my problem is that the 500 series kits instruction sheet does not give a recommendation of rubber/propeller size is the best choice. This is an area i'm not so good at. I fixed up my experimental Zero and will try a 7 inch propeller. I pulled a pic from the Gullow's website. It has a picture of a Test Pilot Al Smith. Anyway anyone know the best motor/propeller to use?

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[kittyfritters]

A general rule of thumb for two bladed rubber power props is 1/3 the wing span. For a 500 series size model a 5-1/2" or 6" prop is about right. You might get great climb performance with a 7" prop if you can find a really light one, (Or, carve one yourself from balsa.) but remember, the bigger the prop the more rubber you need to swing it. If you have kept your Zero down to 20 grams, or so, it should fly with a 6" Peck prop on one loop of 1/8" flat. If that's not enough try two loops of 3/32" or one loop of 3/16".

[Mitch]

Hey Guys... FIRST OFF take everything that I say "with a grain of salt" I am still learning and am hearing input from people who know more than I and like to pass things along. I have been told Props can be 40% of ws. That would be 6 1/2 for these 500 kits (all ws of 16.5)

Is it me or do you all find when I have multiple sheets in a kit ONE is light and the other is heavy. So my last order for 500 series I ordered 2 of each kit of the Luftwaffe planes. I plan to build my first one, the 109, with the best material from both kits.

QUOTE from last issue of Model Aviation from an article about a local flying club that offers meets for various makers...
"A favorite is Guillow's 500 series. Those difficult little planes can really fly when an expert works them over"

I do not consider myself an expert, BUT with our combined knowledge and the ability to compare flight reports I think we can get these 500 series to fly well indeed!

I plan to use a 6 inch prop (5 inch in kit) for my flights. Mitch

[rayd]

Say, WIDDOG....that was a pretty nice flight posted on U Tube. I'm rarely that fortunate, and our local parks and schoolyards are not particularly happy about such flights in my crowded area...so, if I want to, a long drive is necessary for a field, before I get chased away...but I digress, as usual. There's a book you might try to pick up with lots of good tips. It's getting tougher to get it seems, so don't wait long. (Dunno, maybe you already have it.) Softcover 6 by 8 inch size, well illustrated, and nicely suited for rubber power building/tinkering...."Rubber Powered Model Airplanes" by Don Ross. Moreso old school/traditional stuff, but good info. You can find it on this site and others.

The rubber of today differs from rubber of yesteryear. Don't know which is best nowadays. Also, I recall earlier times with balsa wood props, sometimes came already carved, 99% ready to use. Most of 'em looked large, maybe oversized...but I saw, and heard stories about some planes going city blocks away! Many just lost. Often in trees. Guys usually didn't decorate....many figured on one shot flight contests to see how far it goes. I'm gonna try carving some, though I'm not optimistic. Maybe will try to adapt hardwood prop, like from U Control, but dunno...would prefer some rugged balsa. (They can break though in a crash...a big negative.) Anyone know who might make 'em these days? LIke 7 inch maybe? Anyway, do try and get that book by Ross. There's a follow up book also, but I understand its outdated some. I have not seen it, perhaps other members can comment on it. More electronic gadgetry in it I think, but maybe obsolete.

[WIDDOG]

Worked on trimming the Sterling Corsair today. Much better when I know what size rubber and propeller to use. Sorry about the appearance of the model I crashed and tore off the wing. I repaired with a Hot Glue Gun. Anyway back to the trim flights by the time I started to video the rubber motor had grown "Tired" . Anyway I think this model still has potential to fly.

http://youtu.be/FTbcNO6Pf0Y