Building/Flying Kit 904 Skyraider

[Mitch]

I took a peek in the box of my Peck... It is Printed Balsa Sheet. On very thin 1/20 (I think) wood. With very small color coded (contest) sticks. This will be a CHALLANGE to build. Some of my Easy Built kits have "WARNINGS" about handling the wood . I have broken more than a few in my Mustang build and need to handle it carefully. The warnings say if you have trouble with the wood, use the stronger (and heavier) balsa...

I take that as to mean... "Build a few more Guillow Kits!" Mitch

[WIDDOG]

Thanks Gentlemen for the great posts. I'm not really looking for kits that fly better than the kit 507, Before I had my "Hat Cam" I did have the kit 902 Bird Dog and it flew great. There are several reasons why I like kit 507. I really like that it seems to be challenging and of course it's made by Guillow's. My point if I have one, is that I don't think there are that many people still using the Cox motors. Don't get me wrong I still have my Cox Pee Wee 0.010 500 Series FF motor. I feel that the kit 507 is designed more for this somewhat heavy nose motor than for a rubber motor. If I even do have a point I hope to prove it by building a Comet, now rights owned by Guillow's, Zero designed for rubber power.

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[kittyfritters]

...I feel that the kit 507 is designed more for this somewhat heavy nose motor than for a rubber motor. If I even do have a point I hope to prove it by building a Comet, now rights owned by Guillow's, Zero designed for rubber power.

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The kit was not designed as a Zero, but as a Rufe with that big float hanging out in front. You really have to lighten it up behind the C.G. to fly it as a Zero, without the float, even though it has the basic Zero outlines.

If you are building a Comet Zero, if it is the wartime Speed-o-matic kit, the only modifications needed are a removable nose block to make the rubber handling easier and a tubular motor peg to make stooging easier. The 1960s Super-Star, Tube-o-Matic kit (X rib layout) is another kettle of fish. Basically you have to get the tube out to make it a good flier. The Super-Star kits were Comet's attempt to compete with the then new Guillow's kits. They did not go far enough and this was their last gasp in kits.

[WIDDOG]

Your correct again Howard. The kit 507 was not really designed to built/flown as a Zero, I decided to go with the kit 404 Zero.

[kittyfritters]

Your correct again Howard. The kit 507 was not really designed to built/flown as a Zero, I decided to go with the kit 404 Zero.

Hopefully, you are building a laser cut one. The wood is usually better in the laser cut kits. You'll still need to watch the weight behind the C.G. and build carefully, but I think you'll be much happier with the results.

Have fun!

Howard

[Mitch]

TORA! TORA! TORA!

This one is a die cut kit... Flew for 6 seconds at WESTFAC IV. OUT in the first round of "Battle of Midway"
I was told it was the wrong color for that battle, but was permitted to enter the contest. By then the Zeros were all white.
This picture in at my schoolyard before WESTFAC IV, for the contest I had mg's and cannons mounted and all required lines drawn on model.

I have a new laser cut kit and we can build and compare. ALL my first generation 400 series weigh about 100g (Built as per plans).
My NEWER Me 109 weighs 80g. I hope my NEW P-51 will weigh in at less than that.

The 400 series are my favorite for size and value!

My suggestion:
1. Half the wing ribs
2. Lighten Fuselage
3. Move peg forward
4. Keep tail as light as possible
5. Make new front end out of balsa

Mitch

[kittyfritters]

TORA! TORA! TORA!

This one is a die cut kit... Flew for 6 seconds at WESTFAC IV. OUT in the first round of "Battle of Midway"
I was told it was the wrong color for that battle, but was permitted to enter the contest. By then the Zeros were all white.
This picture in at my schoolyard before WESTFAC IV, for the contest I had mg's and cannons mounted and all required lines drawn on model.

I have a new laser cut kit and we can build and compare. ALL my first generation 400 series weigh about 100g (Built as per plans).
My NEWER Me 109 weighs 80g. I hope my NEW P-51 will weigh in at less than that.

The 400 series are my favorite for size and value!

My suggestion:
1. Half the wing ribs
2. Lighten Fuselage
3. Move peg forward
4. Keep tail as light as possible
5. Make new front end out of balsa

Mitch

Mitch,

The FAC people were right. Early in the war the Zeros were not camouflaged. Camouflage is defensive. When you have complete air superiority you don't need it. That's why late in the war the USAAF accepted planes from the factories in bare metal. They didn't need camouflage and paint is weight. Naval planes continued to be painted, even if it wasn't for camouflage, as corrosion protection.

The Japanese, however were under threat of increasing air attack, after Midway, and started camouflaging all land based planes. Even trainers and experimental aircraft, normally painted all over orange with black cowls, were painted green on the top. The mottled camouflage schemes depicted on Japanese planes late in the war were about evenly divided between deliberate design and green paint flaking off because of poor quality paint. A really interesting paint scheme for a Zero would be as a trainer green on top, orange on the bottom , and a black cowl.

Your advice on building the 400 series kits is good. I usually build a wooden front end to go under the plastic cowl supplied.

Howard

[WIDDOG]

Very interesting great posts and Beautiful model Zero. Since I kind of used up my model budget for August already I will have to wait till next month to have a crack at the 404. I will be working on my own designed Zero. I will use a motor tube of rolled up Balsa Wood.

[WIDDOG]

I decided to work with the 900 Series kits for awhile. Maybe someday try to design a 900 series Zero.

[WIDDOG]

Sorry about the delay on this build. I have the plans already for this kit. Also I have a badly smashed up model made from the kit wood. Live and learn I decided to build this new model entirely out of Contest Balsa Wood. https://www.a2zcorp.us/store/Default.asp sells 1/20 inch sheets of this somewhat hard to find size of Balsa Wood. I did have to order some parts from Guillow's. I ordered decals, thrust bearing and music wire. I don't have any local hobby stores close by so music wire is kind of hard for me get here. I use the landing gear wire from the Arrow kit 0.47 inch and Zero kit 0.35 inch wire to make my propeller shafts. I will make the landing gear detachable for flying.

[Bill Gaylord]

I wish I had made the LG detachable on my Skyraider.
I think you'll have a good subject with this model. I wonder why they're not more popular, as I think the series could be good flyers. The three that I bought all had pretty light sheet wood for the built-up fuselages. I have a Hellcat that's heavy due to heavy covering, but for the heck of it, maybe I should add whatever ballast is needed and try a short flight. This thread is motivating me to give it a try. I also have the little Chipmunk, which I should try to build as a rubber flyer, as I don't need any more micro rc flyers.

[WIDDOG]

Hi Bill, wow I have to say I'm a fan of your work! I have seen some incredible videos of your work. It would be awesome to see some of your work with rubber free flight. If you want to post some pics here that would be great! Your work has really motivated me. Micro RC is too tough for me. Don't get me wrong I love it. I do have a Foamie from Plantraco that I'm getting better with but I have a long way to go. I mean wow your work with Micro RC is awesome.

[kittyfritters]

I wish I had made the LG detachable on my Skyraider. ...

I did make the landing gear detachable on mine.



There are small rare earth magnets in the landing gear facing small pieces of thin steel (cut from a cat food can lid) under the tissue in the bottom of the wing. Note the whole "wheel well" is detachable leaving the wing looking properly "gear doors closed" when the gear is off. Gear on for display, gear off for flying.

[David Lewis]

To reduce weight on the Zero, if you can sneak it past the judges, or when designing a sport scale model: Move the firewall forward, increase the cowl chord, extend the front of the crankcase and locate noseweight in or around the nose button, move the canopy forward or devise a paint scheme that disguises a lengthened nose, or increase stabilizer area and move the CG aft. Noticable performance improvement may be obtained with subtle combinations of deviations that your eye does not readily pick up.

[kittyfritters]

To reduce weight on the Zero, if you can sneak it past the judges, or when designing a sport scale model: Move the firewall forward, increase the cowl chord, extend the front of the crankcase and locate noseweight in or around the nose button, move the canopy forward or devise a paint scheme that disguises a lengthened nose, or increase stabilizer area and move the CG aft. Noticable performance improvement may be obtained with subtle combinations of deviations that your eye does not readily pick up.

Having the nose weight "around the nose button" is a good point. One or more steel washers on the back side of the cowl front make good nose weights in a model of a radial engined airplane.