covering

[davidchoate]

i know my 109 only has a16and1/2" wing, buy
t is it better to sheet it with 1/32 balsa, or use silk span? i think that tisssue paper they give in the small kits is just too weak. also I found out they dont make colored dope any more. what should I use instead? any advice Shawn?

[shawn32671]

wow, you too now huh? seems to be a lot of jerks here as of late...anyway, I'll offer a suggestion although most will likely think it a stupid one....maybe try adding a bit of food coloring to a clear dope? I don't see why it wouldn't work.

[davidchoate]

why you gotta insult me. im learning. ur the jerk, Mr. know it all!!!

[shawn32671]

I didnt insult you persay, I said there seems to be a lot of jerks as in many, you insulted me by calling me out by name after my comment on your post about "aelerons on bf109 500 series best method" and besides, I offered a viable suggestion here to what you asked for as far as suggestions...so I tried to help at least. And I sure don't claimed to "know it all"

[Phugoid]

David,

If your plane is to fly rubber, the it's got to be tissue, either the stuff in the box or Esaki tissue. Anything else is too heavy. There's lots of god RC guys on this forum that will help out if that is your pleasure. For statics have a look at Dave Duckets builds they are very good indeed.

I have read ( but never tried) that dope can be coloured by squeezing the ink from felt tip pen into it. Alternatively if you are going to use tissue there is a technique called chalking. You will be able to google that for sources of good information.

Andrew

[Bill Gaylord]

This staged argument quoted from previous posts in this thread is an absolute non-contribution to the Guillows board.
Game's over. People here have better things to do than talk with shawn and his aliases, along with reading staged threads.

For anyone who hasn't figured it out yet:
davidchote is shawn, and I believe a few others also
Calling people out in random threads seems to be something shawn's done before.



covering

Postby davidchoate » Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:39 am
i know my 109 only has a16and1/2" wing, buy
t is it better to sheet it with 1/32 balsa, or use silk span? i think that tisssue paper they give in the small kits is just too weak. also I found out they dont make colored dope any more. what should I use instead? any advice Shawn?

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Re: covering

Postby shawn32671 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:30 am
wow, you too now huh? seems to be a lot of jerks here as of late...anyway, I'll offer a suggestion although most will likely think it a stupid one....maybe try adding a bit of food coloring to a clear dope? I don't see why it wouldn't work.

shawn32671

Posts: 70
Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:13 pm

Top

Re: covering
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Postby davidchoate » Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:49 am
why you gotta insult me. im learning. ur the jerk, Mr. know it all!!!

davidchoate

Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Aug 14, 2013 6:41 am

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Re: covering
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Postby shawn32671 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:57 am
I didnt insult you persay, I said there seems to be a lot of jerks as in many, you insulted me by calling me out by name after my comment on your post about "aelerons on bf109 500 series best method" and besides, I offered a viable suggestion here to what you asked for as far as suggestions...so I tried to help at least. And I sure don't claimed to "know it all"

[davidchoate]

i am not Shawn. just a guy who wants advice from respected experienced RC people. thanks :

[Wildpig]

i know my 109 only has a16and1/2" wing, buy
t is it better to sheet it with 1/32 balsa, or use silk span? i think that tisssue paper they give in the small kits is just too weak. also I found out they dont make colored dope any more. what should I use instead? any advice Shawn?

Not trying to be contrary but, I thought I saw colored dope at my local hobby shop this past week. New stock, not some old dusty bottles.
I will go by there soon just to make sure I wasn't seeing something else.

Are you building for rubber flight as phugoid asked
You can purchase different colored tissue from craft stores. Yes, it's delicate. Takes a little practice to get the knack for handling it.

[Mitch]

Getting back to the question... as David said we need to know what you are building this for. That is, flying or display? I have not used kit paper in a while. Not to say it is no good. I choose to by tissue paper from Easy Built. It comes in 28 colors, about 12 are military colors. I have used it on for all of my lutwaffe for different theatres.

Esaki tissue is much more expensive, has less choices of color, and is for the serious flyer in mind. I use the domestic tissue. I have even used tissue from the craft store and it works also!

You can also use the paper from the kit, dope it, then spray paint. I know a lot of guys that do that with very nice results. An airbrush would be better than rattle cans.

Hope that helps, Mitch

[davidchoate]

i am planning on powered flight, Im using an ares 4:1 gearer motor, and a 3 in 1 ESC, and 2 servo combo receiver. I want to use elevator, and ailerons. should I sheet it all, or just the parts that need to be stronger. also; why are all these Guillows kits so tail heavy, and is there an approved method to reduce tail weigh. I did a rubber powered cub kit 303 24", and had to add 1oz. to the nose, but it flies good.

[Wildpig]

I really don't know much at all about electric powered flight. If you think some areas need beefing up, then it might best to do that. I don't think sheeting the whole model necessary.

Because they are scale replicas of a real aircraft'; you don't have the same weight proportion. The Me-109 has probably a
1000 lb engine up front. Your model essentially has no engine up front.It's just empty space, so they appear tail heavy. You have to put enough scale weight in the model to make up for the missing engine.
There is no approved method to make the tail lighter. There is a recent thread on laminating tail surfaces. The builder saved
1 gram of weight.
The laminated pieces are stronger than the kit construction. And like I posted in that thread, 1 less gram at the tail is probably about 3 grams less of nose ballast. Total weight reduction approximately 4 grams. That's significant on a 500 or 900 series model.

[davidchoate]

thanks for the advice, im new here and the first guy i got advice from was very condescending. im glad u toook the time to help. thanks.

[davidchoate]

666.jpg

[Bill Gaylord]

why are all these Guillows kits so tail heavy, and is there an approved method to reduce tail weigh.

Guillows kits aren't notably tail heavy.

Most models end up that way if not built properly, especially radial engined WWII warbirds. Some folks install tail servos in the cowl and batteries right behind the firewall to counter tail weight, especially when sheeting for scale looks.

[davidchoate]

thanks Bill. Thats what I do, but on rubber powered theres no servo , etc, and that clay is horrible. I like converting these little Guillows to RC. its challenging. thanks again. I read somewhere theyre tail heavy cause of the need to strengthen the fuselage due to the rubber motor forces. I did a 24" cub and cut away alot of wood from the bulk heads. it weighs 115g completed i would like to add a photo,but am having trouble uploading. i painted it like a ww2 grasshopper. the pic u see isnt it, i just copied the servo setup.