removeable wing?

[davidchoate]

i have been interedted lately into converting Guillows models for RC. I would really like to be able to remove wings for acess and repair of electrics. I have read a few posts on this, but I need pictures. Can anyone help me? Mitch, wildpig; got any ideas? I have had a very hard time on these models centering, and getting correct incidence on the rubber powered ones before gluing on every model. why? I am sure I built everything straight. the middle saddle keel always linrs up well, but the sides under the fairing dont. I suspect its due to dihedral changing. And any ideas on creating a fairing for a removeable wing. and another question. I have been reinforcing the fuselages from the trailing edge forward with sheet balsa, using basswood for wing spars, but I see and read about people sheeting the whole plane. are there any wing areas that MUST be sheeted when converting to RC? thanks alot, and I want to show my models, but am not a computer guy, and have"nt figured that out yet. Thank you for helping.

[Wildpig]

I'm not much help on any of the questions you asked.
I've never converted a Guillow's or any other stick/tissue model to R/C.
I have seen on the big R/C airplanes with removable wings, the gap between the wing and fuselage is filled with foam rubber.

As far as posting pictures, you can search this forum. There is a thread about posting pictures.

[Mitch]

David,
I think the Guillow models are pretty well laid out. My builds are never perfect. If you miss align something, or change something... You will probably have an alignment problem latter.
For a FF rubber powered model... I will use my last build as an example. The 400 P-51 "Miss Scarlet" My construction was as light as possible. The only sheeting I did was from B1 to B0 (I did not use the plastic cowl) I only used a few small pieces of Basswood to hold the magnets for the wing. I think that was not necessary. Balsa would have been okay.
I have not been putting in the wing to fuselage fairing. For me it is too much work since it is not required for FAC flying rules. So if you want to make your wing removable, I would not worry about the fairing.

If you change the dihedral, or if you do not line things up properly the wing to fuselage will be a difficult joint. I use sand paper or fill in the fuselage wing root with strips of thin balsa to make the corrections. When the joint is NEAR perfect, then I glue them together. For me the Mustang was an easy conversion for a removable wing as the air scoop locks in the wing, and I only had magnets holding it together at the front. I would NOT trust that connection for RC. If you make a plane RC the plane will undergo a lot more G forces than rubber power. For RC, I would insert 2 dowels in the fuselage (Fwd and Aft of the wing) and secure the wing with rubber bands.

Before I get too involved I will ask a couple of questions.

What model, or series of models do you want RC?
Are you familiar with photobucket?

Mitch

[davidchoate]

im working on a bf 109 500 series now. im building it from plans. what i have been doing is building them as rubber powered kit models first. then test them. sort of a R&D model. i have built 404 Zero, but it came out so pretty i cant break it. i have my second build of a 300 series cub. i test glided it to destuction, but learned alot. it glides very good. even with weight added. i have the second one already done. servos,receiver,and linkage installed. the speed control and outrunner came last week that i ordered from the hobby store. the cub ended up being too heavy for the original setup i was going to use, so thats why i am building the 500 109. its my first aeleron conversin, but thanks to wildpig I got it worked out. i really want to post pictures before i cover it. I really enjoy following other guys builds, and want to share mine. i think i have to donload my pictures to a picture sight first? im not a computer expert.I use the one here at work and my dads, but the last one I owned was a Commodore 64 ! I think they`re boring. I type with a one finger pecking style. It took me a half hr. just to write this! I`ve always been a hands on type. I think thats why I chose to build models as a boy while my friends played Atari. But I`ll figure put the picture thing. I did get my cub on the modelers photos though. that was just I E mailed it to them.

[davidchoate]

im working on a bf 109 500 series now. im building it from plans. what i have been doing is building them as rubber powered kit models first. then test them. sort of a R&D model. i have built 404 Zero, but it came out so pretty i cant break it. i have my second build of a 300 series cub. i test glided it to destuction, but learned alot. it glides very good. even with weight added. i have the second one already done. servos,receiver,and linkage installed. the speed control and outrunner came last week that i ordered from the hobby store. the cub ended up being too heavy for the original setup i was going to use, so thats why i am building the 500 109. its my first aeleron conversin, but thanks to wildpig I got it worked out. i really want to post pictures before i cover it. I really enjoy following other guys builds, and want to share mine. i think i have to donload my pictures to a picture sight first? im not a computer expert.I use the one here at work and my dads, but the last one I owned was a Commodore 64 ! I think they`re boring. I type with a one finger pecking style. It took me a half hr. just to write this! I`ve always been a hands on type. I think thats why I chose to build models as a boy while my friends played Atari. But I`ll figure put the picture thing. I did get my cub on the modelers photos though. that was just I E mailed it to them.

[Mitch]

I suppose some people can put RC stuff in a 500 series, I think the 400 series is a bit tight. There are other forums for RC stuff and it might be better if you look there. Hippocket also has there forum broken down into categories, and you can search some info there on RC builds as well.

I really do not do RC at the moment, and would not be of much help.

It is good you are getting a good glide. Sometimes you will need to add a fair amount of weight. The model NEEDS to be balanced, and when it is, it WILL glide... That is as long as it is not a brick!

Good Luck, Mitch

PS look over the "posting pictures" post for info on how to post pictures!

[davidchoate]

thanks Mitch.

[davidchoate]

it is a challenge to RC these little ones. im usung a simple setup i borrowed from a 18"wing RTF park plane. and I can get alot of micro stuff from the hobby store, and i do check other forums, but i like this one. it has helped me. the hobby store has a RC thing every week. not a club; just guys with mostly cars and helis. i cant believe how few airplane people are around. maybe because i live in Philly and theres not alot of good flying spots nearby. who knows.

[David Lewis]

1. When converting a 24" span model to R/C, first make sure you use equipment that is appropriately sized. I've seen small FF conversions with drastically overpowered motors, heavy duty batteries and servos that are ridiculously too big and heavy. I'm sure you already know this but I'm mentioning it for benefit of other readers.

2. My suggestion is to re-engineer the structure both to reduce weight and correct weak points, such as wing and landing gear strut attachments. Weight reduction is achieved by eliminating parts, reducing cross section of members that are too strong, placing structural mass in load paths, increasing strength-to-weight ratio of joints, using contest balsa and lightweight covering and finishing materials.

3. Sometimes your best bet is to place all the equipment in the nose and access it through a removable nosebowl or cowl. That way you probably won't need to add nose weight and you can permanently glue on the wing, which makes things simpler and lighter.