clay weight

[uncle looey]

Hello All.
I am assembling kit #1005, Grumman Hellcat with a wingspan of 32+ " given to me by my son 30 years ago.
It will be rubber powered.
Question - It requires a clay nose weight in the nose. How much? Is it plastaline or something else.
I've not done this since I was a boy. Memories!
Thanks,
Uncle Looey

[zoomie]

Hi Uncle Looey, welcome to the Guillow's Model Builders Forum .

Is this model going to be flown or is it for display only? If it's display only, you can omit the clay.

If it's to be flown, most models require some weight in the nose to properly balance the model at the center of gravity (CG) point. On scale models the CG is usually indicated on the plan as approx. one-third of the way back from the leading edge of the wing.

Most scale models with rubber motor aboard will balance tail-heavy without any nose weight. The clay is added just a bit at a time until the model balances at the CG point. Normal flight trimming of the model can progress from there.

Plain gray modeling clay is heavier than plastiline or Play-Doh and less of it is required. Personally I think gray clay sticks and stays put better than the others so is preferred on my models.

Have fun building your Hellcat!


zoomie

[davidchoate]

I use stick on wheel weights. I'm a mechanic so I get em for free, but the hobby store wants a fortune for them. Go to youre mechanic, and ask to buy a few strips from him. When you tell him what it's for, I'm sure he'll oblidge. I never met a mechanic who was'nt into planes.

[Mitch]

Hi,

Wow, a 1000 series for your first model in 30 years... Okay. I also have this kit and was planning to make for rubber power. First off I plan to use only about half of the material in the kit. All those neat gadgets you can make work are for display and will only add weight. I will keep all unused parts in the box. If I build again for display I would only need to buy replacement parts.

I would do the following:
1. Use half the wing ribs, I would use F1 and all the even numbers after that 2,4,6,8,10 and 12.
2. These ribs are large enough so that I would cut out lightening holes
3. Make the tail as light as possible. Scallop away from the inside of the C and D parts after built.
4. I would move the rear peg forward and make the aft end of the fuselage as light as possible.
5. I would make the front nose block adjustable so I could adjust my thrust line.

So that all being said... You will still need weight. I make the plastic cowling removable. I usually get things fairly balanced before test glides using clay and some pennies. At the field you can add more weight by sticking it on top of the cowling. When everything is right. Open the couling again and secure all the weight at the bottom of the cowling.

That's what I do.

Could I interest you in building the 400 series Zero first. Laser cut, good value for the money and should be a good flyer...then build the "Zero Killer" Hellcat!

Mitch

PS I have built ALL the 400 series and flown with rubber as per plans. I am currently making adjustments to get longer flights. I also have ALL the 1000 series kits. My Stuka is now in skeleton, needs to be finished. I plan to build the Hellcat next.

[davidchoate]

I agree with Mitch. Besides The PT-17, and by the way, I gotta get back on Mine, The Hellcat is a intricate model for your 1st in 30yrs. I would keep the Gizmo's though, and do it RC, with retracts and all, But yes, the Zero is a very nice build, and IMHO is one of the prettiest Planes, as far as Warbirds. And if you want to FF a Zero, you could easily eliminate about half the stringers ,and espescially on the wing. It has a very strong wing. I have mine ready to fly, but just cant get the courage to go on the Maiden. Its My 2nd plane I did in 30 yrs. I chose an 500 series when I got back into modeling 3 yrs ago. Very cheap to build, and you wont need alot of xtra tools like if you do the Hellcat. I want a Hellcat bad, but its not in my budget cause i'm going all out with it.

[Mitch]

Hey Uncle Looey,

I hope we did not scare you away. I just want to be upfront and let you know that these models, are MULTI-Purpose. And just because they say you can fly with a rubber motor included does not mean you can build EVERYTHING into the model and expect it to fly under rubber power. I have not built the 1000 series for rubber power, but plan to do so soon.

I just ordered some replacement parts for a 400 Zero. Enough for me to build 2 planes, for 40 dollars. I hope to have the parts at my house when I get home in a few days. Of course for that much money I will still need to cut out some parts, use my own strip stock, plywood, and covering, and motor/prop. As my current Zero is built as per Guillow plans. It will fly, and has flown in competition, but it is not competitive on the FAC contest level. I will start a post on my NEW Zeros... stay tuned!

I also plan to pick up some of my 1000 kits from my house, (Corsair and Hellcat) and build them for rubber power. They will be a stripped down (as light as I can make it) version of the Guillow kits...

Mitch... FAC Member, Eagle Squadron... Keep Building, Keep Flying, Keep sharing the FUN!

[davidchoate]

When you built your Zero for rubber power, you must have needed to add ALOT of weight to balance. I Have a motor, two servos, a nd added a much larger battery than necessary to get balance. I'm just curious because I am going to do another Zero, and possibly for rubber, and it would help if I knew how you balanced yours. I Love Zeros. My second favorite Plane next to ME-109. I dont think I ever saw a pic of your Zero? P.S.: You see the pic of my RC Zero? It's been sitting ready to fly. But I dont have the guts to maiden fly it yet.