3rd 400 series FW190 rc

[ADW 123]

Bill, would love to see more detailed pictures of the latches you made for the battery compartment and wing...

Awesome build... always lots of fun building them for R/C . I find myself not wanting to fly them after since I spend so much time and effort modifying them to accept the electronics.

[Bill Gaylord]

Bill, would love to see more detailed pictures of the latches you made for the battery compartment and wing...

Awesome build... always lots of fun building them for R/C . I find myself not wanting to fly them after since I spend so much time and effort modifying them to accept the electronics.

Thanks, the wing simply has a locating pin in the front, and a screw with a nlyon washer in the rear. The key is the reinforcing spars under the rear wing that keep that distribute the load of the screw, and capturing the fuse mounted ply plate with the blind nut securely, gluing stringers below the plate so that it won't tear away. My scanner seems to be giving me issues, so I took a photo of the latch drawing.

I hear you on not wanting to fly these models after all the effort. I've often taken a year to fly them, so that I forget about all the effort put into them. Finally flew my Miles M38 with functional spring mains and tailwheel, after a good year. I had a lot of work invested in that model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BovvUlU ... e3uS3fLSoA

[Mitch]

Bill,

Why don't you use the Guillow Pilots... I have about a dozen of them. For a pilot not wearing the mask, you can use the Stearman Pilot. They are all 1/16 scale. That is one thing I like about the Guillow kits is that they are all 1/16 scale.

Something to think about next time. With a bit of green putty filler they are okay.



Mitch

[Bill Gaylord]

Bill,

Why don't you use the Guillow Pilots... I have about a dozen of them. For a pilot not wearing the mask, you can use the Stearman Pilot. They are all 1/16 scale. That is one thing I like about the Guillow kits is that they are all 1/16 scale.

Something to think about next time. With a bit of green putty filler they are okay.
Mitch

I probably would have, if I had one. I was tempted to steal one from one of my Guillows planes. One of these days I'll get around to making a "plastic" order from Guillows.
I figured out how to deck the seams 100% on the pilots, although it adds a bit of weight. I run gap filling CA down the inside seam, which provides sanding latitude to eliminate the seam without burning through. The pilots are a bit tricky, since there's only a small area on the boot heel to sneak the glue in from.

[Bill Gaylord]

May as well work on some of the details, doing anything to put off iron-on covering the fuse, since it's not very exciting.

[Bill Gaylord]

Finished covering everything with white Coverite Microlite iron-on covering and ready to paint now. I realized that the WN for the plane is 223 instead of 225, so I had to rework my rudder decals as 223.
The model will be finished in this A3 scheme below:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File: ... 2_kl96.jpg

[Bill Gaylord]

All painted except for the darker grun camo color, motting, and a few small details. Gotta love painting large areas with an airbrush. I've never found good RLM blue colors, so I'm stuck with Model Masters enamels applied with an airbrush. The grey is can primer, which had to be thinned with lacquer thinner for the airbrush, for painting the grey areas on the fuse with good control of the spray edge.

[Bill Gaylord]

Better than expected at a few grams less than 11oz AUW with everything on the scale, less waterslide decals which won't add much weight. My last Guillows 190 build is a good few ounces heavier and flies fine, which is really encouraging for this one. I fitted the tail feathers/prop to check the CG with a 3s-350 lipo and came out at around 36mm from the LE with no added ballast. I've flown my past Guillows 190 build a bit further back, but this one may need a further forward CG, since the max thickness was moved forward with partial top sheeting, versus full sheeting on the last model.

[Bill Gaylord]

Finished with an AUW of 11oz with 3s-350 lipo and no added ballast. The CG is at 37mm from the LE, which percentage wise is identical to my Guillows Zero that seems to fly well at that setting. The wing guns were attached by gluing flexible stranded aileron cable into small holes drilled in the LE, with the plastic tubing glued over the cable. This gives the gun barrels some flexibility, without breaking off. I believe that the wing gun covers are parts used from the smaller kit that I had on hand, as they appear to be more scale correct in shape than the ones included with this kit.

[ADW 123]

Excellent build, Bill. I do want to see pics/video of the maiden flight!

[davidchoate]

Beautiful. Thanks for the details. I'm trying to learn how to figuire out what power and prop to use mathematically until I get an intuition for it. In other words; i think the heavier the plane, obviously you must have more airspeed to create lift, and the power to achieve this. Thanks to Dave Lewis I have a very basic grasp, but am having trouble finding formulas. Ans I (on larger planes) will sheet the LE too, but I add capstrips, and eliminate the stringers tat run long. to the wing. I also partially sheet theTE. I have purchased alot of motors from `150,250,370, abd even 400 . I have alot of research to do. I have been building easy, cheap, and versatile fuselages to test different wings and power combos.

[Bill Gaylord]

Thanks for the comments ADW and David. I'll have to try to get around to flying this one soon. One thing I'd focus on before anything else in a build, is building the perfect wing. It's the least tolerant component of all. You want planes that fly straight out of your hand for 100 yards, before having to touch any controls. My Guillows Spitfire will do that now, which initially started out doing 4 rolls within 50 feet after launch. I started out building these and kept building without flying them for a while, which wasn't good. When I finally started braving flying them I learned a lot about what really matters. With a good airframe trimmed out for r/c, control surface deflections for reasonable control are really only about +/- 1mm, which says a lot about how something will fly with a 1mm warp. Next is gear placement which has to be considered along with what gear selection, using the gear whenever possible to set the CG without ballast. For example there's not much point in having a small motor on a subject that needs the noseweight anyway, especially when small modern lipos will drive the slightly larger motor anyway.

[Bill Gaylord]

Finally got around to flying this model. Fine flyer. The model has retractable gear with a retractable/steerable tailwheel, but the old 72MHz Futaba transmitter switch has failed again so I couldn't show them operating. I cleaned it at one time, but I now have a new Futaba T6 Super on my channel that I came across for next to nothing. If I ever get around to programming it for the 190, it could be used for the model.

Flight video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpgRIu6 ... e=youtu.be

[kittyfritters]

You picked a good one to be obsessed with. (I should talk...I've built 12 Comet P-40s since I was a kid!) According to an article in one of the scale model magazines, a few years back, the Guillow's 400 series Fw-190 is the finest representation of the aircraft available in a rubber powered model. That's more than can be said for the Bf-109.

Love the way it looks and it seems to be a satisfying flier. Nice Work!

Howard
(kittyfritters)

[Bill Gaylord]

Thanks. With a bit of added effort in the nose area, the kit makes a really nice rendering of the A3. I can understand Guillows simplifying the vent area for the average kit builder.