Old returning modeler

[42swing]

Hello everybody! New person to the forum, but an old Guillow modeler from 50+ years ago just returning to it. Built all the larger WWII fighters and the smaller WWI fighters in high school, then got heavily into 1/72 plastics for many years. College, grad school, career, marriage, two kids and 50 years have passed. A recent stroke, and now mostly retired as a former pharmaceutical executive so have some time appearing.

I teach karate, am into restoring antique Fords, WWII re-enacting, and swing dance. My family is similarly into the Fords and re-enacting. Recently purchased the entire set of 12 WWI fighters which I intend to do as static builds, plus three of the balsa towline gliders I built back when for flying. I'm clearing my old space in the basement and finding where I can get what appear to be real novelties today like nitrate dope, and Ambroid glue. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions as I progress this winter. A couple quick ones for right now:

1. I'm going to start with WW1, the Albatross. Is there a method to paint the lozenge patterns? I never cracked this problem in days gone by, but maybe there's a modern solution - and I'll need it later for the Fokkers and Pfaltz.

2. I always painted my pieces with colored dope, but always wondered if I could have used airbrushed enamel to get the more complex colors.

3. What do people use for rigging these days? I used waxed thread back when, which wasn't really satisfactory.

Looking forward to many pleasant interactions.

[Mitch]

Welcome Back!

The German camo of WW1 is always the most challenging. It was printed on the fabric (to keep the weight down) so I feel that is the best way to do it. I am not an expert on printed paper but I have a source who will print the proper scale and proper pattern for you. The paper then needs to be shrunk with rubbing alcohol not water as the colors will run.

This will require extra care. May I suggest you find a color scheme and go with something more simple for your first effort.

Another way (What I did) is to make a pattern and cut out each color (very time consuming) But the results were satisfactory.

Here is a picture of my Fokker D-6 (Dr1 kitbash) with German lozenge:


Can I assume you are building for display?

Mitch

[ADW 123]

Welcome... glad you decided to get back into balsa planes!

I use sewing thread (black) for my rigging with good results. I heard a while back (not sure who from, but it was on this forum) that there is a neat elastic type of thread that you can stretch, secure in place, and it will stay slack long enough to dry then tightens up. Not sure if I'm must imagining this... perhaps someone else here can confirm.

[Steve Blanchard]

There is a thread available that I use for all of my rigging which is called Lycra thread. Lycra being the main ingredient in spandex. It is fine and stretches very well. It will hold for what seems to be forever. I have used it on all of my models that require rigging for more than 10 years now and none of them have ever needed tensioning or re-rigging. Try Volare products online (Shorty's Basement) to see if they carry it.

Steve

[Brenda]

Nice to have ya back building. You'll be happy to find Sig dope is still being made. If you choose white glue or glue sticks you can just airbrush with thin paint. Laser printing is really the way to go. I made decals for my 1/2a WWI Bullet and secured some with clear dope. Others I used Testors hot fuel proof glue. Both work well.

[42swing]

Thanks for the welcoming words all. I had found SIG was still making dopes, whew. Are most folks using CAs or white glues, since it appears they stopped making Ambroid some time ago.

I think for my Albatross I'm going to use the color scheme on the Smithsonian's D-5a with the Green/Mauve wings, natural wood fuselage and pale blue undersides to avoid the lozenge. I have good color digital images of all 4 lozenge patterns I can scale appropriately, and I agree it is probably best to go with a printed covering. Is it possible to laser print onto tissue or silkspan? Beautiful D-6 Mitch!

I will try the Lycra thread out once I'm to that point. Has anybody ever tried fine wire?

Anybody here ever built the old Berkley Sinbad and Super Sinbad or Jetco Talon towline gliders?

[Mitch]

Thanks... and I just got back home... I had to go to dance class!

I am glad you are open to suggestions. I have most of the 100 series and can help with building questions. If I were to build an Albatross I would lay on the balsa in sheets on the fuselage.

Got my D6 down and here is another picture:

I need to finish this someday. Planned to fly, but she is too heavy and I have too many other projects.

As far as Rigging goes it would be much easier to do the D7 or D8 first as the only rigging is on the landing gear. Anyway I rigged my SE5a. Just the basic rigging, not every line. I studied how I would proceed and use one thread to continue around. I needed just one eyelet and used the eyelet they sell at some hobby shops for rigging ship models. I think you can also find them from the internet.

Doing a 2 tone camo is not too difficult and I believe anyone can do it. But it does take a bit of care.

Here is what I do.

1. Choise the 2 colors you want.
2. Cover the entire wing with the lighter color. Shrink that. Add one coat of dope.
3. Cut out the pattern of the camo from the second color.

Here is where it gets tricky

4. Lay on the send coat of dope and lay the second sheet on that wet area.
5. When dry and a third coat of dope.

I use a maximum of 3 coats of dope because I want to fly my planes. Here is a picture of my Spitfire that is built as per Guillows and flies:


tat tat tat tat tat tat... down goes another Me109!

Mitch

[Bill Gaylord]

I use nylon coated stranded silver jewelry beading wire for rigging. I believe the .3mm is what I've been using lately, as it comes in various gauges but the thicker stuff weighs. I use it as functional rigging with small lengths of aluminum tubing used as crimps, which strengthens the wing assembly as well as holding settings. It's also useful for pull-pull linkage setups. The Stearman below uses this rigging.

[Brenda]

Anybody here ever built the old Berkley Sinbad and Super Sinbad or Jetco Talon towline gliders?

Yup I did years ago. Lost Super when stooge forgot to turn on DT timer.

[Wildpig]

Hi 'swing,
You can use an inkjet printer, I've never tried a laser printer, to print on tissue. Here is a link to Mike Stuart's website on printing on tissue. Mike is a renowned free-flight modeler who lives on the other side of the big pond.
http://www.ffscale.co.uk/page4e.htm

[42swing]

Fabulous Wildpig! Detailed instructions and digital files in the same place. Can't wait to give it a try. Planning to plank the fuselage on the Albatross, Pfaltz, and Halberstadt.

Brenda - the Super Sinbad was always almost mythical to me, I knew it existed but never saw one in pre,pre Internet days. I chased my Sinbad all over my neighborhood in Denver before it finally came down in a neighbors backyard. My Talon was simply too heavy, overdid it on the finish. Would glide beautifully, but only in a gentle dive...

Gonna be awhile before I have my workbench accessible and usable,but planning ahead.

[BillParker]

Fairly recently built

The Cleveland Condor Soarer E-19 (one to the plans, 2 at 13' woingspan...)

http://www.parkerinfo.com/ap104.htm


bp