2015 Challenge, FW-190 "Red 13"

[Mitch]

Thanks for the questions.

Everything has a purpose. Yes, I will start off with down and right thrust. I will need more and back out the screws as needed. These screws are only holding in 1/8 plywood. If I used countersink heads there wood be no wood left to hold. (I am relying on the plywood, not the balsa). This model is being built copying the specific plane of Heinz Bar. That is why I made the tail separate. It will be white with his celebration of 200 victories. I generally do not use tail for trim. I will be trimming this model next week and want it to glide straight. When flying, the ideal for me is a nice climb circling to the left. The model will make a 360 degree turn or more. After the motor is spent then the model will glide straight ahead and be coming down at a 10:1 ratio. If the model catches a thermal it will stay aloft longer. I have not had a problem yet of my model not coming back down to Earth, but people do and that is why some competition flyers have DT's (De-Thermilizers) that are set for 2 minutes and then the elevator pops up and forces the plane back down. Maximum time for points is usually 2 minutes and that is what they set the DT's for 2 minutes.

For this model I will spray on one more coat of dope. Then trim and get some flights in. Then paint the model (Airbrush with Vallejo watercolors) and see how much weight she gained. I will attempt to fly again and those times will be for the G Challenge.

If the model ends up too heavy I plan to build another and will use colored domestic tissue, which is my normal practice.

Mitch

[davidchoate]

I like that You build Planes that have a theme of History. Alot of the reason I do scale planes is that I love the History behind them. I have a B-29 kit, and want to make it a replica of a real one. I have discovered that There is an online grour or club for just about every kind of Plane ever flown. I joined a B-29 club/forum, and You would not believe the information these guys know about the squads, and specifics of each individual craft. They are always eager to help with photos and info. Also Guys who build plastic scale models are much more into the exactness of the details as far as colors, insignias, and etc..Your plane looks graet as always.

[42swing]

Come see the only flying B-29 at the Reading WWII Weekend in early June, the Commorative Air Forces FIFI. Also B-17, B-24, B-25s, Mustangs, Thunderbolt, Wildcat, Corsair, Val, and more. Check out the Mid Atlantic Air Museum's website for specifics. You can even take a ride in FIFI - for $1300.

[42swing]

There are a lot of specialized publications aimed primarily at the plastic scale modeler. The cheapest are probably the Squadron "In Action" series which cover a very broad range of topics and are good for general information, pictures, markings, and color schemes. For details though, the "Detail and Scale" series are tough to beat but more expensive. Three volumes to cover the B-29 and its variants. There are a number of very high quality books on German color and markings, but they are very pricey and most are out of print.

[Mitch]

Glide Tests, First Flights and First "Badge of Courage"

Glide tests: I had a pencil with the rubber wound (to simulate the weight of the prop) The model was gliding straight and was going about 50 feet. I worked up to that. But on one glide the pencil feel out and that caused the model to go into a nose up and stall position, came down hard on the front end. Best Glide was 17 paces or about 50 feet.


Here is the damage.

I was undeterred and put the prop in and wound the motor until it was knotted up. (Rubber motor from kit) I did not really count nor did I stretch wind. I flew the model twice and the second flight she flew 27 paces or about 80 feet. She was flying straight ahead. I forgot my screw driver and It was getting late and with the damage to the cowl I thought that was enough for today.


Photo from my launch point.


Maximum Zoom.


Repair to the cracked cowling. If this was at a contest, the field repair would be CA glue. I do not like CA glue but have it in my field box for quick repairs.
NOTE: Use CA glue in well ventilated areas!

I may lay over another piece of paper over the damaged area, I'll decide when the glue is dry.

That's all for the now. Tomorrow is Ballroom Dancing from 9AM to 10PM! Time now for dinner then I need to get things ready for tomorrow. Good Night.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Update on repairs.

I am satisfied with just the glue repair to the cracked cowl and damaged paper. FYI, the AUW of the model at this time is 91 grams. I am disappointed it is so heavy, but as you all know the short nose FW needs a lot of ballast.

I think she is ready for full power test flights. She flew very nice so far, but only straight ahead and did not climb, only extended her glide. I had the screws backed out to my 'normal' settings, but with the 7 inch prop I will re set the screws to fully turned in and start with that.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Getting ready for a real flight test... Things we will eventually need:



Clockwise are:
1. Dental bands
2. Dow Corning 33 lube
3. Pilot for display only (he does not get to fly)
4. Winder (mine is a GismoGeezer)
5. Torque Meter (I have not used that yet) I go by count.
6. Extra rubber motors (Guillows rubber shown)
7. Crocket Hook (in center)

I find many people are not aware of the crocket hook. It will hook on to the front end of the motor and be secured with the dental rubber bands. It has 2 small holes. Put in your winder and stretch wind the motor. For test flights I can grab the motor, take off the winder and hook on my prop. For maximum flights the muscles in my fingers are not strong enough to hold the rubber without it unwinding. I know, you are thinking I have weak hands... Just to let you know some of these rubber motors can store the power of 1/4 of a stick of dynamite. That is why we like to wind with a blast tube. Therefore the second hole. Put a large pin (music wire) though the back hole to hold the motor, then take of the winder and hook on the prop. The nose block goes in and you are ready for flight.

Also needed is a stooge. I have a makeshift "tailgate" stooge, but am in the process of getting a better one.

Hope to get some flights in tomorrow.

Okay I should have a blast tube also, but I hope to just do some test trim flights. We'll see...

Mitch

I found this bit of info on the internet:
Winding a loose dry rubber motor is not desirable for a few reasons. First, the rubber is usually packed in talc. The small crystals will cut the rubber as it is wound, causing it to fail. Usually exploding in the fuselage of a new model. Washing the motor with soap and water will remove this talc. Friction will also prevent winding a dry motor to maximum turns as it abraids itself, again causing a premature failure. Finally, energy is also lost overcoming friction as the motor unwinds. This reduces the amount of torque the prop sees resulting in shorter flights with less power.
Lubricating the motor allows a much larger number of turns to be applied before failure. The motor will also unwind more easily, as the strands can easily slide against each other. Both of these factors will increase duration, and altitude of a flying model.

Like most magic formulae, the secret recipes of successful rubber lubes have been closely guarded by their creators. For years the traditional recipe has been a mixture of Glycerine and Tincture of Green Soap, both available from a pharmacist. Of course the magic ratios, and any other secret ingredients, were not often divuldged at contests! Today, this mix is still used, as it has the advantage of being easily washed off the motor if retying is necessary. Other easily available lubes being used are ArmorAll vinyl protectant and SylGlide bearing grease. Both are available at auto parts stores.

A common way to lube a motor, is to put some of the lube in a plastic sandwich bag. The bag helps keep the lube off your hands. Smear it around a bit, then add the motor. Rub this all around in your hands and then remove and install the motor. You're ready to go! Needless to say, a bit of experimentation will quickly reveal the benefits of winding a well lubed motor.

[Mitch]

Another day of glide tests.

I decided that having the rubber motor in with a pencil in front to simulate the wt distribution was not a good idea. I took out the rubber, and pencil. I added an equal amount of wt (clay) inside the airplane at about the cg. Then just put the nose plug back in. Ready for flights... Heinz stayed home.



The model seemed nose heavy so I kept removing some clay.



Don't throw the model up. Throw it down to a point about 50 feet away. This time the plane stalled and hit the nose hard again.

I eventually removed all the clay (it was near the cg) and the model was still nose heavy... I had one more adjustment... I had a washer (2 grams) hidden behind the cooling fan.

The model is flying better... It never glided more than 17 paces, about 50 feet, but I am happy with the slight adjustments of wt and the final glide.



The cowling was cracked again and more paper broke. I plan to remove all the paper between B1 and B2 under the side engine bumps and fill that in with solid sheet balsa. I think that will be a good fix to absorb the impact of wheel up landings.

It was difficult to get a good picture of the plane in the air, as I did not have any assistant with me.

Mitch

Note: I weighed the plane in the new condition with no ballast and was happy to see that the model is weighing in at 75 grams!

[gordonfan24]

Looks like fun, thanks for sharing.

[Mitch]

Thanks.. and this is why I do not add details to the model until it is necessary. I will remove the damaged paper under the cowl, inspect to see if there is any unseen damage, make repairs and improvements. When I glue the cowl again, I will use plastic cement not white glue. I'll keep you up to date with repair work and powered flight tests coming up next. I want to get in a few timed flights then I will paint the model, and add required details.

Mitch

UPDATE: I was able to get the cowling off, as the white glue was hard but does not really bond plastic to wood. I removed the paper from B1 to B2. I found one longron was broke and the starboard side keel was spit, with a chip off B2. So repairs are being made now. Also, I used some scrap plastic to make a patch on the split cowling, I made a doubler plate about 1/8 inch wide and laid it along the split. The cowl was almost split though but stopped at the radial curve. Everything should be much stronger and there should be no visible signs of damage when repairs are completed.



After the glue is dry I will fill in between B1 and B2 with sheet balsa. I think this will vastly improve the strength of the front end in the event of another unexpected hard landing.

[Mitch]

Here is the Repair/Upgrade to the FW:


Interesting info on weight gain...

Plane (without cowl and nose plate) weighed 62 grams after repair to longrones, but before installation of filled in balsa between B1 and B2.

After all wood was glued in model weighed 66 grams.
After glued dried model weighed 65 grams.
After I removed the excess wood (all the 'proud' wood) model weighed 64 grams.

I don't think it is so bad to have a 2 gram increase, as I will now just have less ballast, and the nose of the plane should be much stronger.

So her she is with the cowl slipped on, and front face plate in:


In this condition she weighs 77 grams, then of course she needs her prop and motor and rear peg for AUW (All Up Weight), flight condition.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Hello Guillow Fans,

I decided to bring in my FW to the IPMS meeting today (International Plastic Modelers Society) I also had 2 plastic models to "show and tell". But I was wearing my FAC tee shirt and I made sure everyone was aware of the 'side show' my Guillow's FW was sitting by itself on a side table.

After the presentation I went to my FW and was surronded by about 5 or 6 guys asking questions. I handed out 2 Guillow Catalogs and showed them the features of my FLYING model. They all enjoyed seeing it and want to see it again when I have it painted up. I think I will start to bring one flying model to the meeting every time I go. I also told them that Skyway Model Shop now carries the Guillow models and hope some of them will check out this site.

Mitch, Keep Building, Keep Flying, Keep Spreading the FUN!

PS: Raining today and still waiting for my new winding stooge. I hope to have it when the rain stops!

[Mitch]

Hey Flying Model Fans...

I picked up new stooge from the Post Office today:

Very easy assembly and will be perfect for any 400 series model and other models of that size...


It comes with a tray to hold you stuff... also a bungee cord and I am not sure what that is for?
The front support is easily adjustable for any model.
It has 2 support lines and 3 tent stakes.

The only problem I see so far is my Hellcat will be a tight fit. So for the 1000 series in the future I will make sure things will fit before I finish the model. If I had the rear peg back about 1 inch more it would be okay. I can still use the stooge for the Hellcat, but I will need to put the model in upside down. The Guillow's 1000 series are larger than most rubber flying models. I see Hellcats and Thunderbolts at FAC contests but they have 24 or 30 inch ws. The Guillow models are larger.

So for less than 100 dollars and a nominal shipping charge I am very pleased.
I found this on the internet and it is from:
StarLink-FliteTech Models, mine is the "Sturdy Stooge" model number SLFT-341
He also included a advertisement for a DT timer. I plan to buy one and install it in my 1/2 Wakefield model. It weighs 3 grams and I sure you can place the timer forward where you need ballast anyway. I will give a product review when the time comes for that.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Hello Guillow Fans...

I had my first powered test flights today with some satisfactory beginning results. I flew the model without the canopy as I removed it for inserting the rubber and it was only held to the model with scotch tape, and I did not want to loose it.

I meet up with members of my SAM and FAC club at our flying field this morning:


I used my stooge for the first time today:


I got in several flights and a fellow member got a photo of my FW in the air:


So here are the results so far and my planned changes:

Since the FW has already been though initial gluide tests I started right off with a short powered flight.

1. Guillow's rubber and prop, 200 winds. short flight but nice and level, slight turn to right... about 20 paces, which is about my best glide test. (60 feet)

2. 300 winds, model flew about 25 paces, model flew straight ahead. (75 feet)

3. 400 winds, model, adjust both screws out 1/2 turn. Flew about 30 paces. (90 feet)

4. switched to a Peck 7 inch prop, 400 winds ... flew about 35 paces. (105 feet) but still straight and level, no climb out yet.

I feel the rubber motor getting loser so I go for 500 winds... then a malfunction... I did not notice my 7 inch Peck Prop was only jammed into the front wire hook! The metal wire was not bent over to retail the prop! This worked at 400 winds, but at 500 winds while I was inserting the nose assembly back in the shaft pulled though the prop!
ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
At first I did not understand what happened...then I figured it out... fortunately not much damage to the model. I pulled out the wound rubber motor with no further damage and fixed the problem by reinserting the wire though the thrust bearing and BENDING the wire to retain the prop.

5. 500 winds, Peck prop again... about 35 paces again and the model seems nose heavy...she is not climbing.

I decide I need to remove some nose weight! I have another problem... after adding all the "In Fill" to the front end I removed all my ballast forward. I have no removable ballast for adjustment and now the model seems nose heavy... I do not want to add weight to the tail... I decide to remove my 2 adjustment screws for the next flight test... so they come out!

6. 600 winds ... Model definitely climbed out at the beginning of her flight... still no more than about 35 feet, but I am encouraged.

With some slight damage from the engine mishap and not wanting to break my motor I decide to call it a day...

Planned for next week:

1. Repair damage
2. Drill some lightening holes in front end to remove weight
3. plan to start with 8 inch, then 9 inch Peck prop.
4. plan to use Tan Rubber and more strands. I'll make up a few different motors.

I then had a nice brunch with my fellow flyers... check in next week for flight tests!

Mitch

PS: I used the supplied rubber motor for these tests. It was lubricated with Dow 33. I did not braid the motor. Next week I plan to used 6 strands of Tan rubber and that will be braided.

[Mitch]

The Focke-Wulf is back in the shop for improvements...damage is not structural and will only be repaired before contest:

The bare model here weighs 58 grams:


I want to remove weight from the front end so I sanded down the stacks of balsa rings and drilled 10 holes:

Here is the result and I removed 2 grams! The 2 screws I removed in the field do not even register on the scale... so they can go back in!

The model here weighs 56 grams! Of course it will be over 60 with the canopy installed and the cowling back on... I am happy to lighten the front end!

The rubber motor I was flying this with was 8 grams! I plan to use 20 grams of Tan rubber. I only had the Guillow 7 inch prop and a Peck 7 inch prop... Next week the FW will get the Peck 9 inch propeller!

This is ALL under the contest rules... The entire kit is from the box, only change is to the front end and rear peg and Propeller!

See you at the field next Sunday... now I am off to dance class!

Mitch

PS: At this point if the model is tail heavy again I can just fill up one or more of the holes I drilled with clay!

UPDATE:
With everything installed the model weighs more than 60 grams... a lot more... here she is ready except for rubber, she weighs 78 grams.



With 20 grams of rubber she will be still under 100 grams AUW (All Up Weight) and with that much rubber and a 9 inch prop I am looking forward to good flights... I want to get in some timed flights, I will have a Eagle Squadron Club member time for me next Sunday. But I want to paint the model for the Guillow Challenge Contest, and then fly the model again and use those times!