"New" Old builder

[Balsa Pilot]

Greetings to all of you.

My name is Henry. I live in northern Ontario, Canada, and have returned to building balsa aircraft, after approximately 25 years. This is a hobby inherited from my uncle, who was a master builder. But, he had the benefit of using materials I don't have access to.

Things have most definitely changed, and not all for the better. (After recently retiring many of you will no doubt agree). I find after consulting with my local hobby shop, model airplane dope and dope thinners are no longer available. While using a glue like mixture (called "MOD-PODGE" believe it or not,, thinned 50-50) for covering, doesn't present an issue. I have always "wet-covered" and achieved very good results. Painting the aircraft most definitely DOES present significant issues. When I have tried to paint (with Tamiya Lacquer) the fabric/new paint dries sagged and un-taught, ruining a nice covering job.

From some of the pictures i have seen on this, and Guillow's site, there are many of you who have already figured this one out. Respect to all folks, some of these are truly works of passion. So, I am asking please share your secrets with me. Also on the topic of appearances, Guillow's decals are consistently giving me a hard time. They fall off, peel off, wont stick to cowlings, rip,and are generally impractical. Is there a solution to this problem? The sheet directions have been followed religiously.
Next, if the is aircraft covered, and I want to paint the model,is there a practical method of masking for straight lines for the length of the fuselage, or the span of the wings. I don't want to try free hand and waste the covering labour, and I'm afraid of tape tearing the paper. This is, of course, assuming there is a way to seal the covering, so it doesn't sag like a full babies' diaper when I try to apply paint.

Having finished the Piper Cherokee-301, and the 305laser cut DHC-2 Beaver and float combination, I'm ready to try another , possibly the Cessna 150 Commuter. As I got my private lisence years ago on the '150 it seemed like a good idea to build an image of it. All of these are intended to fly, and as soon as the weather improves to show some grass the test glide process will start. Until then I am content with the "Flying Machine and Strato-Streak", plus hand launch gliders to keep the bug at bay.

[Brenda]

Howdy Henry and welcome back to balsa!

Just a FYI dope and dope thinner are still out there. Personally I use SIG. Still comes in the same cans we used years ago. Still makes paper squishy for doing rounded things. Speaking of SIG they still make SIG-Ment but Ambroid is gone (sort of). There is another company making Ambroid but I can not think of it right now. I do have some and yes it still smells the same.

[Balsa Pilot]

Hi Brenda, wow that was fast. I know dope and thinners ARE available in the USA, but my store tells me "only in Canada", alas they are not. Do you have any sources or addresses, phone numbers. I'd love to go back to this method, but Canada seems to think they are explosive and therefore not an item for import available to the public.

[Brenda]

I'm sure there is some sort of website that will ship to Canada but honestly I get my stuff straight from SIG http://www.sigmfg.com/
If you want to put a power plant on it Cox is in Canada http://coxengines.ca/
Speak to your LHS and see if they will carry stick and tissue stuff. Reason I say that is Smith Brothers here in LA is booming due to having 1/4 the store in nothing but S&T. Your LHS might be unaware that it is coming back with a force. They can even provide plans cheap for those wanting to scratch build.

[Mitch]

Hello Balsa Pilot,

I also use SIG dope, but more recently started using a spray on substitute. If they sell paint in spray cans you might find it. Start at a hobby shop that sells flying models RC such stuff... It is made by Top Flite and is called LustreKote I use crystal clear TOPR7501. It smells like dope, contains similar ingredients. I spray on 2 light coats to get the model covered then one heavy coat.

As for decals. The paper has to be sealed properly, I think that is your problem. Also on plastic, it should be smooth, gloss finish (this goes for plastic models as well) then apply decals, then spray with dull cote if that is the finish you want.

As far as painting goes, again the paper has to be sealed properly with dope. I have not painted a model yet but will do so soon. Another option is to use colored tissue paper. That is what I do for most of my builds. Then apply colored paper where you want and you are done...again this takes practice.

Here is an example of colored models just using paper:


Both of these are flying models, the Grey Me109 built as per plans, the Tan Me109 was modified for flight in FAC competition. The Grey model has Guillow decals, the Tan model has photocopies on bond paper, and squadron marking printed on bond paper from internet. Glued to model with white glue then another coat of dope.

Mitch...Glad to have you aboard

[Bill Gaylord]

Is this the same Balsa Pilot with the P47 rubber powered You Tube videos?
If so, they showed real potential for the large model as a free flighter.

I've been cheating for years with ultra light Coverite Microlite iron-on. Certainly not for purists, but it's fast and wrinkle free. It relaxes when painted, but shrinks well with a high power hair dryer after painting. Heavier than doped/painted tissue, but not much.

[Balsa Pilot]

Good morning everyone!
Hey Brenda, thanks for the suggestions, and for now its only rubber powered free flight. Theres still got a Cox Golden Bee, and a brand new Cox .020 in my work bench drawer but they are going to wait a while. Easier on the budget, and certainly quieter. I will search out SIG, as I still have their "Monocoupe" on the shelf waiting patiently. SIG was the brand I used to use way back when as well.
Mitch, thanks for the response. NICE 109's by the way.I'll try your hints re:decals and internet prints.
B Gaylord : Nope. different guy entirely, and while never having heard of "Coverite", I will search for it, and if available in Canada it'll be on the test bench as quick as lightning. The Topflite Lustrecoat is familiar, there must be someone north of the 49th who carries it.

Thanks ALL for your responses and experiences. With a little luck I can figure out how to post a couple of pictures.

Anybody have any ideas about the masking of wings +/or fuselage for painting? The using of different colours of paper is a great idea. Hopefully there is someone who stocks different colours around here. What kind of store stocks that stuff other than the LHS-mine only stocks Guillows white?

as for now everyone have a great day.
Keep the Blue side UP!!

Henry

[Balsa Pilot]

B Gaylord, not computer type yet, just scrolled to see the 190. WOW nice job


H

[Balsa Pilot]

B Gaylord, not computer type yet, just scrolled to see the 190. WOW nice job


H

[Brenda]

I get tissue from http://www.easybuiltmodels.com/
They carry the really good tissue there as well as the building board we all love so much.

[Brenda]

Oops I forgot Brodak. If you want electric over nitro Brodak is the only way to go. Be it free flight or control line they have modern timers that are very light and work great. Their 1/2a motor kit is about the same as a Cox .049 but just press a button and away you go. No fiddling with nitro, no mess, no hearing loss (who said that? answer that phone!), no lean runs, and no pricy nitro to buy. I've used the 1/2a stuff on Guillows Bf-109 and Spitfire with fine results.