P-51D - Looking for color/number of paint for static model

[TIGERHD1]

Oh , Mitch...about the pilot...thanks. I will look into it, undecided as of yet. I believe, at the time I did the fuselage for the Spit so long ago (I think weird sometimes I guess) it was static, so it would be, like, parked...so no pilot would be in it? LOL....but then I put the prop on and it spins in the wind....who is in the aircraft while it is running, right? So....I am thinking on it now for the P51!

[NcGunny]

Love the wheels..i was going to rob a Tamiya kit for a set for my Stuka but just couldnt do it. I am disappointed in those lil thin things they include. Your props are nice,cant really notice an out of scale appearance. So...I was going to amend my post last night. We hit up Hobby Lobby and Michaels..their craft paints are always on sale it seems. Last.night I could have bought a bottle of silver and grey for .39 cents each. I get sick of the cost of model paints and thinners,once I went to craft acrylics I never looked back. But I do buy Vallejo German sets since I am exclusively a German modeller. I will post a thread soon to mixing crafts to simulate German colors.

[Mitch]

People here have asked before where to get pilots... and with a bit of work I think the Guillow pilots are just fine for the 1/16 scale planes... there are a few 1/16 scale pilots in plastic kits, Tamiya make a German Pilot and a Japanese Pilot, MiniArt makes an American AAC Pilot and a Navy Pilot.

Here are some pilots in my Zero Tainner Kit Bash I did... I used the Steraman Pilots and cut and moved there heads, need to fill in the crown of there head and finish... Japanese Pilot standing with sword is from Tamiya. Went together easy, and primed but I need to paint.

So for your next build... and if you ever get the 1000 series they have cockpit interiors... I was planning on using photo copies and cut and past and rework the cockpits of the 400 series when my planes are retired from flight duty!

Just food for thought...



Mitch

PS: This Zero Trainner was a real airplane... I have mine covered in Hi Visibility Orange and plan to fly in FAC competition..."Low Wing Military Trainner"

[TIGERHD1]

Good luck in the competition Mitch!! Has anyone had experience with the Testor's metalizer spray paints, like Testor's Model Master Metalizer Aluminum Plate 1451? Have been told it only works on plastic. I wonder if it is compatible with butyrate dope, after the silkspan has been applied? Would save me the hassle of returning what I bought and getting something different like Testor's Spray Enamel '1246 Metallic Silver' as Mitch suggested.....getting closer to having to paint...and need to get one more color...will, at the same time, either exchange or not. LOL.. now getting nervous about compatibility of what I have, the 1451 laquer....

[NcGunny]

If you have enough silk span to spare i would mock up a popcicle stick square...cover it..dope it up and give it a test run. I would think that a primer may be needed. Most paints that dont stick can be directly attributed to wrong primer and/or the paint solvent being a issue. I would personally try a mock up and give it a go

[Mitch]

Tiger,

I do not want to give miss information here. I have only used the Testor's "1246" Spay Enamel on the plastic parts of my models. I like the color match to the Silver paper I use. I have painted paper models before and I suggest you dope the paper first to seal the paper well. I do not remember which paints I have used in the past for painting balsa and paper models. I never had a problem with interaction between the paint and dope. I believe the paint would work on papered dope, but I understand sometimes different paints are incompatible.

I would try the paint you have and see how you like that. Good Luck and I hope you enjoy your build!

Mitch

[TIGERHD1]

Thanks NcGunny....the main thing is, I have not even opened the spray can yet (cap is sealed with tape, and paper has not been cut around cap)....and if it will not work for sure, I will return it, to get money back and / or exchange for a paint that I know will work....if someone has had experience with that type of paint (Metalizer) and can share the info.
Personally I have never used it before. If I had the money to spend, (six and change per can) and I knew I had more to spray...I would do as you suggested and test it with no problem.
LOL...like everything else, it's all about the money, you see! Thanks for your response and suggestion.

[TIGERHD1]

Mitch, thanks again...At this point, I have pre-doped the build, ready to put the silkspan (wet ) and dope over it....on the spitfire I shared pics of, It was all enamel Testors in the little glass jars. Worked well. Wanted to spray, for the P-51 is such a large area of silver ...faster and probably better looking than brush is my thinking...and as I said, I picked up the 1451 (aluminum plate) Metalizer Laquer without (my duh) looking into it. Thinking I have that, if someone had experience with that particular paint...and shared...my mind would be eased...and like NcGunny and you shared, test it would be the best way to see.
I think as of now (money is tight) I will exchange it for 1246 metallic silver spray...it is enamel, you have had experience (as have I) with enamel....probably a better way to go.....
Thanks guys ....much appreciated!!

[Mitch]

Tiger,

Sounds like you are on track... that metal lacquer sounds expensive and may be overkill for what we want to accomplish here. I was just at my IPMS (International Plastic Modelers Society) meeting yesterday. I am sure some of these guys know more about silver paint for the aluminum finish look.

As for covering your model. I usually use domestic light tissue, but on my FW build for the Guillow challenge I used the paper from the kit. I applied it dry. It shrinks up very nice after that. I am sure you have seen pictures of that FW as my threads are still active. Some people cover wet, but I do not. I have trouble that way. I do not know your experience level. Just make sure you are laying the paper on with the grain of the paper in the proper direction. For the fuselage I try to cover a bit more with each piece than the instructions suggest. I try to have a few seems as possible.

Mitch

[Mitch]

Hey Tiger...

Just got back from one of my LHS's...needed to get more LusterKote (Crystal Clear). I see they have several colors also... I bought a can of Aluminum TOPR7506. This would make painting Aluminum a one step process instead of two. (Doping then painting) I do not know how far you are now and I thought I would tell you ASAP!

The next time I build an aluminum plane I will use this new spray dope... I think I have it... I have the Spirit of St Louis... but I do not want to start that right now as I have about 4 planes underway now!

Mitch

[TIGERHD1]

That sounds interesting, and much more easier with a one step process!!!!Appreciate you thinking about and telling me, Mitch. I have already finished the pre-dope, and am now covering with silkspan and dope...am now questioning myself why I am covering with silkspan as it is a static model, and have used sheet balsa to cover the entire frame and stringers of wing, fuse, elevator and rudder.....maybe just because I have it? LOL...I really am not sure, but anyway, working on top of the wings now, only the bottom of wingspan is complete.,,,with a couple small wrinkles.

[TIGERHD1]

Well, I am done. Photos (I hope) here...








This side is where I started decals...LOL...however, I was not paying attention.