Fairchild RC II: 4 CH. RC

[davidchoate]

I used Pull-Pull Rudder on Fairchild 1, and was impressed, but had servo stall problems with elevator pushrod. I'm going to give the .020" wire with ears a try on Fairchild 2. P.S. I'm not used to Guillows builds being this light.My Fw 190 I had to almost Monocot it, and I.m still not happy. The Litecote has made a difference. In weight, and in quickly removeing warps, and evening washout etc. But sometimes paint just looks better on all out scale, but I'm just more experimenting here.

[davidchoate]

One Wing.only took 12 hrs to make it fit just right.

[davidchoate]

Last time I esed a solid Fin And Elevator, but I used some soper hard balsa from My die Cut Spitfire kit.

[davidchoate]

Well after letting the parts "settle "for a week or so it seems all is well except for the fuiselage. It has developed a twist or Racking condition. I should have added a couple more stringers to hold it all straight. I often leave most of them off until I find the best place to put the servos, batt, esc, and etc. I may have to make an entirely new one.

[davidchoate]

After not looking at it a few days; with fresh eyes I see that the fuselage will be OK. And the wing still looks perfect. The raised center of the wing will be perfect to hide a servo from hanging too far in, or down. Also I relocated the windows forward to eliminate too much window. Not scale I know, but either is a servo where a Pilot should be seen. This is part of the fun. Finding out solutions by Myself.

[davidchoate]

Started on ailerons

[davidchoate]

No. I'm going to have to just do a whole new fuselage. Maybe now It's Fairchild 2.1 ? I may be up to version 2.8 or so before it's satisfactory. Oh. If anyone is outthere. How are You Guys Posting these super clear photos? I have to reduce My size to a grainy old looking photo or it wont post due to being too large.

[davidchoate]

Aileron .5g as of now. I used Deluxe Super 'Phatic Glue. Do not have a lot of experience with it, but heard it was good.

[davidchoate]

I removed more material from the wing ribs to make room for a aileron hinge spar I'll call it. The spar on the aileron I made by putting scrop balsa inbetween the spars. I may end up laminating that with a solid piece depending on the strength. It seems strong though, and I plan to use Hinge Tape not poking slots for CA hinges. Ailerons are far from needed on this, but I need the practice. I kept most of the dihedral and plan on very limited aileron movement. The full scale 3 view on plans shows 0 dihedral. If this works I may decide to do a Fairchild 3 at some point. With more details to scale.

[davidchoate]

Spar added. i used thin CA and accelorator as it should not need a lot of sanding. And I'm seriously addicted to the accelerator stuff. Has any body else tried the used up backing from monokote or microlite instead of waxpaper? It's pretty good.

[davidchoate]

I'm using the same method on the Right Aileron to keep weight on R and Left I hope balanced, but I'm using TiteBond Wood Glue. Experimenting. I going to try Bill Gaylord's method of using .020" wire as Control Cable. I have Sullivan Gold N Rod, but on this small model, I agree, too heavy. One Servo in the middle to move them, and like I said before, I am looking for very mild roll. I know what happens from adding ailerons without dropping dihedral. It's horrible.

[davidchoate]

I have the aileron bays cut out and stringers attached on both wings, and am now fitting/bending to shape the music wire and finding the best spot to locate the servo, and the best servo arm to use. I think I will cut My own control horns as even the smallest plastic ones are a bit too large.

[Bill Gaylord]

If you use the .020" versus .015" wire, you will definitely want to pre-shape the curved area to reduce friction, although both can work fine. I've spent a good while tweaking the bends to reduce friction, with the wire setups. They are nice, when working well though. I spent a good while fitting individual servos into each wing panel, on the last Cub build. The single servo with .015" wire in the Guillows Robin was probably easier, all things considered. Worked out really well on that model.

Never thought about using covering backing for wax paper. The wax paper is definitely only so-so with CA. It's forced me to get better with applying less glue, as it will stick to the balsa.

[davidchoate]

I tried a small patch of the superlite backing, and a patch of the thicker monokote clear backing. the CA sticks to the lite stuff not as bad as wax paper, but much worse with Ca accelerator. the thicker monokote backing worked no worse than wax paper, but is easier to see through, and both although not stick free; had way less bleed through to the paper plan copy from pinholes than wax paper. The Deluxe Super phatic Glue is nice, and way better than tite bond, but it has a cure time of at least an hour before parts can be un-pinned, and a good 8 hrs before cured enough for sanding. but is much better for areas that need sanding than CA.I think Deluxe makes good products, and I want to try their EZ Dope. I think Guillows sells It. I was always under the impression that is was like water and Elmers, but I think it may be much much better. I saw where a Guy used it to cover a sheeted surface with fiber glass cloth instead of 2 part resin. The Deluxe Co. sells cloth .6 Oz. I think the lightest. I dont know if that's per Sq. Ft. or Sq. Yd. And I was thinking to use a straw from a W-D 40 can to make sections of guide for the aileron .020" wire. I thought maybe a coffee stir straw but the holes too big and the O.D. too thin. I gotta get out the old micrometer because I think I may have .015" wire. I will have to see if one 2.5g servo has enough torque to work both ailerons, and if not I'll do one in each wing because the next size larger servo I have is only 1 g lighter than 2 2.5's and after the adapter to make it fit My Rx (it's a Spektrum 3.5g with the mini white connector) it would be around the same.

[davidchoate]

It is .020" wire I have. I used small pieces of Red plastic tube to work as a bushing to keep the wire from wearing the soft balsa wing ribs, and I ended up using regular CA Hinges. Hinge tape would not have worked well here. Although the control horns are not in Yet ( I want to wait until I'm sure where I want them) I believe the one little servo will work. I had to fuss with the wire until the servo stopped "buzzing" and I will probably try and get even less resistance in the movement. I'm going to cover it in microlite. But if is does Fly I would like to do it in a GOOD tissue and Dope Finish.