Windshield attaching with CA

[davidchoate]

I am finishing up My Dumas Bird Dog. All I got left is to attach the windshields. I have always used Canopy Glue, but with mixed results. I did a very nice job on this plane and want to try using CA Glue this time on the windshields. I have heard others on here say that hey used it, and I would appreciate any help. Mainly I just need a detailed explanation of the procedure.

[tom arnold]

It's a simple procedure-----do NOT use it!! The fumes will cause the canopy to get a permanent white film on it that ruins it.

[dirk gently]

It's not that bad:



Sometimes you get a little bit of fogginess from the fumes, but it can easily be cleaned off from the inside with an earbud.

[NcGunny]

I use Nicoles Super Tacky craft glue. Dries clear. I only use CA on canopies that can have the edges hid out of sight. The blow mold canopies dont haze up as much as a styrene clear plastic will though..

[davidchoate]

Ok. thanks Guys. The Plans say to tape the windshield in place and to then use thin CA to adhare it, but I think it,s risky. I may experiment first with some scrap wood and plastic window materials. I have been leaving the side windows off on My last two Planes because It looks better than any glue on windows I have tried as of yet, and the airflow must be better to keep the ESC/BEC cooled. I'll post some photos after I'm done. I got lots of stuff to experiment with.

[Bill Gaylord]

CA works fine, but there are a number of tricks. First, I use thick CA, as I don't want it to flow much. It has to be used very sparingly, or it will flash whiten the glass. Activator applied with a fingertip will cure it readily and stop it from flowing, but it momentarily actually increases the flashing, while rapid curing. The flashing can be cleaned with alcohol/q-tip, but it does tend to come back over time. You have to be very careful not to smear it across the visible area also, when applying the CA and/or activator. Bottom line is if you have some overlap and apply minimal glue, the flashing can be fully avoided. This works well where there is some balsa underneath the plastic, such as windshield pillars. The CA will likely not flow beyond the balsa, if you have at least 1/16" overlap. It does not work well where the edge of the plastic simply touches the model, such as across the fuse, in front of the instrument panel. The best use of it is to tack a windshield in place, and then use something like Pacer canopy glue for the majority of the seam.

[Xanadu]

I use Weld Bond, works fantastic. Goes on white, dries clear.

[RocketRobin]

Foam safe CA can be used without fogging the plastic. However, foam safe CA doesn't really bond to anything, including foam. Glue it on, watch it fall off.

I prefer to use Foam Tack on my plastics. It bonds solidly to almost anything, it won't fog, it remains slightly flexible and air dries in a couple of hours.
Unfortunately it will eat certain foams, so I don't ever use Foam Tack to actually glue foam. For that purpose I use Foam-Cure.

Cheers!
Rocket

[Arlo DiPasquale]

I used to use CA glue, but many times I ran into the problem of the plastic fogging up, so I found this Testor's window and clear part cement. Takes a few minutes to dry, but works pretty well and does not fog up the plastic.

[backyardbalsapilot]

I tried using the testor's stuff, but it seems a bit too thin too me. I use Formula 560 canopy glue, and masking tape the clear bits to the airplane after it is covered and sealed.

[Jimmy]

The problem with using CA or Super Glue is that it "fogs" the plastic. This true. However has anyone tried dipping the canopy, etc. in Future before the dipping ?

[Bill Gaylord]

I wouldn't want to put any solution on the canopy that might reduce adhesion. Thick CA used sparingly will not fog glass, if it is applied to glass where it overlaps balsa framing. If a slight amount of fogging does creep to a visible area, it can be cleaned up with a Qtip, etc. The problem is people want to blob the stuff on. Only use microscopic amounts on spots needed to tack the glass in place, and then cure with activator. On areas where the edge of the glass glues to a fuselage, I use an exacto knife blade to apply CA, and then activator. There may be a bit of fogging, but the painted on window frame will generally cover it. Again the less CA used, the less fogging. I use Pacer glue for the majority of my windscreens, but there are some that are so difficult, that they would be a nightmare without first tack gluing a few spots with CA. I used a good bit of thick CA to tack the glass sheets in place on the model below built last fall, which would have been really difficult without CA.