Sheeting a wing

[elkhart]

I'm working on a display Spitfire, 500 series. I'd like to try sheeting, but not sure about some of the details. I've watched a few videos on YouTube, but I'm not sure if it would be done the same on a little 500 series. What size balsa would you recommend for the sheeting? Should I reduce the size of the ribs to allow for the extra thickness of the sheeting?

Thanks for your help!

[Coloradoken]

Being a newbie to sheeting (just on my 2nd kit),I have been very happy with the result. As a rule of thumb, I use whatever minimum thickness I can use while keeping the contour of the wing profile. The means a lot of trimming to fit between the ribs and a lot of sanding. I don't try to wet or other wise shape the infill. Made good use of emery boards to shape and sandpaper to finish. Gradually finer to 400 grit before putting wood filler in the gaps. Then balsa sealer and more sanding.Would only fill on static display models only. Adds lots of weight! Time to infill doubled my build time, but who is in a race?

[elkhart]

Wow, that looks great! So you put the sheets between the wing ribs, not over them?

[Coloradoken]

As close as I could, but had to sand a lot to keep keep the airfoil shape. Soft thin balsa helps. I finished it with a high gloss and got a good result. Much prefer to tissue.

[heywooood]

Hi Elkhart
I have used both methods - sheeting over the assembled framework, fuselage, wings, and tail surfaces - as well as the infill method
You can see a few of those infill builds here in the threads on this page titled - next up, Viper - Call the Ball - and the Beaver Floats?

The sheeting method I used has not been chronicled but the plane image is in the photo archive on this website. It was the PBY Catalina in prewar aluminum finish with the bright yellow wing and tail. I think it is the may 2011 or so collection.

The infill method produces the best results. But it is a time consuming and labor intensive way to build. Take a look at the threads I mentioned and feel free to post any questions you have. You can build a beautiful and accurate model using the infill method..these Guillow kits are truly well designed.

[elkhart]

Thanks heywoood, I've seen your posts, very inspiring! Thanks for posting

[heywooood]

Good luck on your Spitfire project.
Thank you for your generous appraisal of my work, I appreciate it very much.
If you have any questions about the methods or materials I used just call them out.

[woundedbear]

I though that at some time in the future I might try doing a Guillow's kit as a scale static display model. The 1/16th scale 400 and 1000 series, "I think with their size", would be impressive displays. My eyes are getting worse and large scale models are something that I wouldn't have to have a magnifying glass to see I have some good 1/32th-inch A grain balsa wood sheets (3" x 36") I've looked for 1/64th-inch thick balsa wood sheets but haven't been able to find any balsa wood sheet that thin I'm wondering can balsa wood be cut or (possibly sliced) into such thin sheets Does anybody know of a internet balsa wood seller who sells balsa wood sheet in 1/64th-inch Is such a thing possible I guess it must be, I do have some 1/64th-inch Burch wood plywood sheets, but they are heavy

[Walt]

Check: http://www.specializedbalsa.com/product ... sheets.php
They sell sheet balsa in 1/64" thickness. Little more money then 1/32" but available.

[Coloradoken]

I have found that the larger scale models require just as much fine work as the smaller scale. The sections (tail, wings, etc.) are just bigger but require the same detailing skills.
Also my infill sheeting experience has been that really thin balsa is much more difficult to work with. Trying to glue in a fill on a curved surface can be much more trickier with a thin section. A thicker section is much easier to use although more shaping may be required. The extra weight of the thicker balsa doesn't matter if you are going for display, not flight. If you don't get the thin infill just right, you may have to put another section in to get the correct curved shape. Most of the kit has curved surfaces! You are best to try different methods yourself to get your skill level matched up to what you want in the finished product. Can't beat personal experience. If it is not working for you try something else. Life is too short be be unhappy.

[woundedbear]

Hello coloradoken! Thanks for your response. I have a set of micro carving tools, their about the only stuff from my days as a woodworker. Gave everything else to my older brother when I lost my shop and my health did a nose dive. This micro carving set has 2 gouges, 2 chisels, and a V tool, I'm glad I decided to keep them, "not sure they make them anymore". Their a 1.5 mm. set and I think the V tool will make doing recessed panel lines easy. At one time I had all my ducks in a row, my sister in-law's Dad had a small cabinet shop and was helping me start my. He had worked in furniture factories here in Carolina all his life and had retired. He planed to supplement his social security by making high end furniture for folks but had more customers than he could handle. He was a real great guy and taught me a lot, then he got pancreatic cancer, " it was real bummer man" Just about the time I became interested in traditional woodworking and carving, my mother had a stroke and my "Born-Again Christian" older sisters cheated me out of my house, shop, and my car That was 18 years ago and the whole thing left me broken, and homeless. I would like to pass along a little advice to all of you. If someone who describes themselves as "A Super-Christian" approaches you, don't walk away. RUN! Run silent, run deep, run fast run far! Run for your life and don't look back. These people will wound you and leave you destitute. They give lip service to Jesus every Sunday and worship the all mighty dollar 6 days a week. Is it any wonder some many of our young folk are atheist now.

[heywooood]

remember that wetting the balsa sheet allows it to be contoured and shaped to fit areas where a curved or even a compound curved piece of material is needed.
I usually cut the section to be filled from balsa sheet slightly oversized - test fit and trim to fit - then submerse it in warm water for a moment - then work the water into the wood grain with the fingertips until it can be easily shaped without cracking or splitting...maybe 15-20 seconds - then test fit and shape or trim ae required - then glue it in place. Once dry - it can be sanded as part of the usual process of shaping and finishing the complete component (wing, fuselage, tail) without any problem. I use this method on the infill pieces along the wing leading edges all the time - and with the Beaver - along the corners of the fuselage and under the tail

[davidchoate]

Thanks for the link to Spec. Balsa. I have been looking for a source for certain hard to get thicknesses. Until now.