Hi everyone

[joan]

Hi everyone ,just starting out in this hobby and am really enjoying it so far.Just about finished with my first build ,a Spitfire, I made some mistakes but I looked at this as a learning experience and feel as though I learned a lot putting this together.My goal is to build the deHavliand Beaver as a RC rudder only rubber powered model covered in Econocoat (two shades of blue). My first question is should I try building the Fairchild 24 first ? I don't think the extra practice would hurt and it does look a bit simpler.
My second question is ,I only have the very basics as far as tools go and would a gram scale scale be a good next investment or is there something else I should invest in first? I was thinking maybe some mini clamps, not sure . Any other suggestions would also be welcomed. Anyway glad to be here and I've really enjoyed reading everyone's posts so far

[Bill Gaylord]

Having built both, the Beaver is easier to build, with the tab and slot type construction. Both should need a fair amount of dihedral for rudder only. I used Microlite iron on, which is much lighter than Ekonokote or Parklite, even with a light coat of over painting. The aft weight of Ekonokote is a real killer on the small models, learned from previous experience. I use CA, which creates an instant bond. My hats off to people using clamps with other glues for the F24's type of construction, as I don't have the patience for it.

[joan]

wow ! that Fairchild is gorgeous. Thanks for your reply

[Balsa Pilot]

Helloooooo Joan!

welcome to the hobby and site. it seems like there isn't a simple answer to your question. As you gain experience you will find that more and more tools become more and more of a necessity. I am relatively new to the hobby as well (about 4 years), and there are many on this site way more experienced than I- and who also have great tips to share. , yet the most valuable is knowledge, and that can be had in the form of DON ROSS' BOOK (there are two), "Rubber powered model airplanes", In his first book he outlines the basics and that's a fantastic place to start. At some point a scale will be very helpful, but I found a really good building board is another basic yet essential foundation block. ( I use ceiling tile X 2 fastened together), or a metal sheet with magnets - this is invaluable for keeping things square while they dry - which is very important if you are going to fly them which it does sound like..Are you using single edged razor blades to make your cuts?,
Anyways that's a start- if youre ahead of that, keep asking questions, keep flyin" keep tryin and smiling! One thing I learned from a very experienced pilot was that you can't be afraid to crash, or that they may fly away on you - its a funny hobby that way. Find a local club, the folks will be happy to help, and go to some competitions for a real enthusiasm booster- the non-nats are in Geneseo New York this July, and the name of that game is OH MY GOD FUN!!!!!! the competitions are all over and you will be happy you took the time to go (and learn). I also recommend joining the Flying Aces Club - easy to find, just a google away, and there is a wealth of information there, also check out the Easybuilt models website for comprehensive building tips, and great models as well as Guillows - who also have a good section of tips.
Sorry to be so wordy, but happy to help.
Up in the frozen wastes of Canada
Henry

[Mitch]

Hello

Not sure if you really intend to build an RC model powered by rubber? The rubber motor will take up all the room inside the model. This would be for free flight. I am still struggling to get 30 second flights. For RC maybe you want a small electric motor.

I would invest in tools and clamps before you need to buy a scale.

For test flights I live near a school yard that is sufficient. For a fully wound rubber motor you will need to find a flying field.



Here is a picture of a 400 series I built for the last Guillow challenge and flew at WEST FAC 5. Powered by 4 loops of tan rubber and a 9 inch Peck Prop. Best flight was 28 seconds. All wood and paper from the kit. Only changed location of rear peg, used aluminum tube for that. Front end is adjustable and used tan rubber with crocket hook and larger prop. The tape you see on the prop is to balance the prop... I add scotch tape to the light side until it is in balance.

Model doped then a light spray with Tamiya aircraft color rattle cans

My first real successful flight was a 400 series Mustang. Built right out of the box as per instructions. that flew with supplied rubber and prop...I did not time that, but maybe 15 seconds. Now I make a few modifications and use tan rubber and larger props then supplied in kits.

[joan]

Hi, thanks for the responses Yes rubber powered with RC rudder. A man posted some amazing videos on youtube and that's what inspired me .Domoremath is the person's name. Anyway just about finished the spitfire and not satisfied with my work at all. I was going to build the deHaviland Beaver next (already bought it) but now want to do something simpler before attempting it. However this is still great fun and I'm having a ball with this hobby and I'm reading everything you folks post

[Coloradoken]

Beaver rev 4.jpg

The Beaver is not a hard build. If you don't mind spending additional time, you might consider an" in fill" instead of tissue covering which I always do a lousy job on. It makes for a great looking model but the extra weight keeps it from being a good flyer.

[joan]

That looks incredible ! think I will go ahead and attempt to build it now,nice and carefully slow

[Mitch]

Maybe possible, but I do not think practical. My FW you see won the Guillow challege but still flew for less than 30 seconds...about 28 or 29 I remember...seems I also add a second or two in my memory...LOL

It never flew very high but was looking very nice in the air. I think with added weight of RC gear would be too much.

I have gotten the 400 series to fly as per Guillow plans... I would start with that.

You built the Spitfire... was that the 500 or larger 400?

I like the 400 and now am on to the 1000. I also need to finish my 2000 P-38, all these are in the same scale of 1/16.

Mitch

PS...Currently building a few Dumas models, I need to build up my Flying Circus for October skies in Arizona for WestFAC 6

[joan]

I made the 500 series one and I must agree with you about the RC gear . I'm just going to go for a nice clean good looking plane. I'm kicking around the idea of investing in a heat gun/sealing iron for a film covering. Thanks very much for your feedback and thoughts

[akjgardner]

The 400 series are Ideal for converting into RC.perfect for electric or small glow engines like Cox or Norvel