Tissue for dummies?

[bsnider]

First and foremost, let me thank you guys for the help you have already provided. I have been reading the forum for some time now and have noted some useful tips... I am new to the hobby and know this topic has been addressed. I must be an idiot because I can not get my covering to turn out worth a darn!

Back groud information... I am interested in Guillow's planes from a purely static perspective. I stumbled across photographs of a 172 on the virtual aerodrome (made by a gentleman who I believe is a member of this forum) and desided that I had to make one for myself... I purchased one the next day which is now waiting for me on my shelf once I get my act together. I have tried the beech and now a cessna 150 with no luck. I trided dope on one and white glue on the other. On the first one, I used that tissue that came with the plane and on the second I purchased some "thicker" tissue from my local hobby shop.

I will try to explain my problem.... I used two base coats, sanded between them and then covered with tissue. I used the dry approach to apply the covering and then "applied water mist" and when that was dry I applied two coats of glue or dope depending. Well, the covering is not that tight, or at least as tight as I would like. In short, it looks like garbage! I know it will take practice, but if anyone could make any suggestions, I would appreciate it. Also, since these planes won't fly... could I used sray paint? Is there a way to apply primer to a covering or must I use colored dope... I would love to avoid dope, even with proper equipment, it still really stinks.

Sorry for the long post. Heck, at 38, I am just a child in this forum...
Thanks, Brian

[fychan]

As you may have noticed from the previous tissue posts I tend to do things in an unorthodox kinda way... But, for the record, I cut the tissue out to the approximate size and shape while dry (leaving 1.5-2" around the edges), crumple it all the way up, flatten out, crumple it all into a ball in an opposite direction (so for a wing I'll do front-back first then tip-fusilage) and roll it around nicely... Flatten out and then mist it lightly. Most of the creases will then drop out - I lay it over the frame and while it's still wet apply the first coat of dope (normally with thinned to about 20% dope, but I haven't done that this time and it's worked beautifully still). Once that's dry (the dope I have changes texture when it dries, so angling it to the light is a quick way to tell) I'll apply a second coat of dope - and maybe a third.

Perhaps this is not the standard way of doing things - but I never have any issues with tightness... If anything just the opposite. On the spitfire wing that I've done (only managed to do the bottom half of the wings before the wife banned dope from the house - and what with winter here, I get home after dark, and have 1,000,001 things to do at the weekend ) the tissue has pulled so tight that I have a concave curve on the wing... The trailing edge has been pulled downwards - which I'm hoping will increase lift....

A waffley reply to a long post From another youngen'.

Fych.

[supercruiser]

I use a dry tissue method. I cut the tissue slightly larger than the area to be covered. Using white glue , glue one edge. (I use 100% glue, no water, just smear the bead of glue along the surface.) For example the leading edge of the wing. Let that dry. Then apply glue to the trailing edge of the wing and the end ribs. Now, very gently pull and stretch the tissue to the T.E. and the wing ends. After this is dried; I trim the excess off with a sharp razor and then , maybe, sand it further so no little edge sticks up. Then, I either mist with water or put rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball and rub the tissue. It then sags and looks terrible, of course after it dries, it's nice and taut. I then spray a clear acrylic spray or an artist's fixative.
If you are not going to fly them, then enamel or acrylic spray paints will work
just fine. Take a look at Mr. Duckett's work, I think he is on virtualaerodrome.

[lennyz]

FOR AN ALTERNATE METHOD---TRY GOING TO EASYBUILTMODELS.COM
THERE IS A TUTORIAL ON TISSUE USING GLUE STICK---GLUE STICK CAN BE DISSOLVED & OR REACTIVAED AFTER DRYING W/ RUBBING ALCOHOL. THIS ALLOWS FOR SOME ROOM TO ADJUST AFTER YOU HAVE LAID THE TISSUE

[cdwheatley]

Have a look at the method described here http://www.ffscale.co.uk/comp7.htm. This is how I decided to go about things after reading it there, after a brief flirtation with the glue stick method, and it works fine for me. If you're having trouble covering a particularly awkward bit try wetting the tissue first, although some tissues do have greater wet strength than others.

[bsnider]

Thank you for the replies... I went to the site that was linked and found it very helpful. (Although I now feel so inferior)

Also, when I re-read my original post a thought came to mind... I realize that the cessna 172 that is my inspiration was probably made by someone with many years experience and I will probably never come close to his level of talent.

I can't wait to try covering again.... Thanks, Brian

[bonanza5508D]

Hello Brian!

Just joined this forum and already I have been transported back in time to when I built Guillow kits and other similar ones. Don't be discouraged with the results of your early attempts at covering. It takes practice and experimentation and over time you will develop your own bag of tricks and methods to apply to different situations . I remember my first attempt to cover my pride and joy. It wasn't pretty, and with encouragement from my mother I improved with each model. I used the dry attach approach and then spray misted the tissue to shrink it. I even remember covering some models using tissue utilized in wrapping presents. This tissue come in various colors too.

Well, I have gotten carried away here. Hang in there Brian. With all the help here on the forum and on the net, coupled with your desire to succeed, you will!

Good luck!
Bill

[Igneus13]

quick question (I couldn't find it elsewhere) I'm planning on using the 50/50 water/glue mixture to attach the glue to the frame, but can you also use it to coat over the model as well or should I just stick with the dope for that?

Thanks!

[Xanadu]

From what I read, you use it as a top coat as well.
It makes the tissue "sag" more than dope, but it comes back once it drys.

[Igneus13]

From what I read, you use it as a top coat as well.
It makes the tissue "sag" more than dope, but it comes back once it drys.

Yeah that's what I happened but I expected it. I was wondering what it's supposed to look/feel like once it's dried because I've put on three coats of my glue mixture. It's probably about a 60/40 water/glue mixture. The tissue it still taught like it should be, but I guess I thought the tissue would become a lot stiffer and harder and it seems like that hasn't happened. Advice anyone? Thanks.

-Ig

[flying chicken]

I'm working on my first Gillows, 504 Spitfire. I've just finished the fuse, except for covering, and I'm about 95% on the wing.
I'm hooked.
I sanded my fuse, and hit it with a couple coats of my wife's Aussie Hairspray. I started to do 50/50 g&w, but got lazy.
It dries up pretty nice. Gonna see what happens real soon. It sure smells nice, if anything.