Formers

[WilJay]

I have not built a Guillow's model for at least 30 years. I recently bought a Beaver as we have so many in the area. I had trouble building it because of the split formers. I'd set them up on the keel and square them and glue using white glue. I did the second set against the keels but I had trouble keeping them square. Consequently the fuselage is out of kilter. I never planned to cover or fly this model so it looks okay despite the numerous patch repairs I had to make.
Here is my question. Could these half formers be glued together over the plans rather than building them over the keels? I know there is not much surface to glue but I think it would help - in my case anyway - keep the fuselage shape square.
Because of this I am looking for models where the formers are one piece but it seems most of the Guillow's models make them in halves.
Thanks

[kittyfritters]

Here is how you deal with the split formers.

If you are using white glue or Titebond and not CA you will have to double glue. That means putting some glue on both the surfaces to be glued, letting dry to tacky, applying a very small amount of fresh glue, then pressing the parts in place. It takes a little patience but it works.

On an absolutely flat surface pin the keels down over the plan. Using a small square to hold the formers at 90 degrees to the plan, start from the back to the front and install the fromers moving the square forward for each former.

20029.jpg

In the photo, I was using Titebond and I used T-pins simply laid on top of the formers as props, to hold the formers straight up while the glue set.

20030.jpg

When the glue on the formers has set install the side keel making sure that all the formers are in alignment and apply glue. Hint: If the model has a bottom half former it is more easily installed after the side keel is in place. Now the trick for the other side. Using popsicle sticks, or some other equally flat, stiff wood, and spring clothes pins or small Scuncii hair clips, clamp the opposite side formers in place, as shown in the photo, when gluing.

Se5-6_small.jpg

When the glue is set, install the side keel, again making sure the formers are all perpendicular to the keel. Now, install the stringers, working in pairs on opposite sides, from the top down to complete the frame.

Using the same technique with CA will allow you to amaze yourself with how fast you can build.

Hope this helps,

Howard
(kittyfritters)

[WilJay]

Howard - thank you for your tips and the very helpful photos. I built the fuselage of the Beaver as per the instructions and somehow the alignment got out of kilter when I tried to attach the second half of the formers. I did use a square on each former on the first side and I guess you might say I eyeballed the formers on the second side.
I was just wondering if I could not glue the formers together before I installed the keels.
Thanks.

[kittyfritters]

The old Comet Speed-O-Matic kits had one piece formers. You put the top and bottom keel parts together with a temporary brace of 1/16" square at the front to hold them in alignment then took the keel off the board and fitted the formers while holding it in your hand. Then you glued in the side keels. This is doable but requires a great deal of fine motor skill. In the later, Super Star series they tried to make it easier by having you assemble the formers on a cardboard tube. This really wasn't much better. (And, if you wanted it to fly you had to figure out a way to get the tube out when the fuselage frame was assembled.)

If you don't have a modern (self jigging) laser cut kit that has notched keels you can avoid a banana fuselage when aligning full formers on the keels by using a box jig. There is a box jig in the lower right hand corner of the picture. The one in the photo is intended for half formers and uses popsicle sticks glued to the vertical keel with "green glue" (celluloid glue) to keep the fuselage straight until all the formers and stringers are assembled. After assembly the popsicle sticks are removed with acetone.

17416.jpg

A variation of this for full formers would use a solid deck of balsa wood with the plans segment glued to the deck and slots cut for the formers. With the keel pinned to the deck assemble the keel to the formers with half the formers sticking through the slots. Assemble the side keel to the formers and do the alignment for the perpendicularity of the formers at this point when you glue it all together. Pull the fuselage off the jig and assemble the other side keel and the stringers.

Although there are many people that think all these methods of keel and former construction are a pain in whatever part of the anatomy you prefer and build with box fuselages I prefer to use whatever method is appropriate.

Again, Hope this helps!

Howard
(kittyfritters)

[WilJay]

Preview: Re: Formers

Thank you Howard. You seem to have this fuselage technique down to a fine art. I like the box jig idea. If I recall the models I made eons ago had the full formers and this is why I was finding the half formers difficult. I think I will also make a bunch of true 90 degree blocks to help.
As an aside when I made the Beaver the first former was obviously out of kilter so I just glued the cowl to the existing cowl so it could be straight. I also used a propeller from my old days control line planes and a set of rubber tires as well. It looks good to those who have seen it but they don't know the errors in it. I have I hanging in my workshop and call it my earthquake detector if you know what I mean. If its shaking then we are experiencing an earthquake.

[Squid61]

The square method works great for the first half, it's usually the opposite half that give the trouble since the fuselage no longer sits flat and/or square to any surface. I have seen some "clamps" that look like they work. Take a 1"X2" (or whatever size you need) square of cardboard or balsa and cut a 1/16" (or whatever size you need) slot far enough through the center of long axis to grab both former halves. First completely glue up the first side using the square method then glue the mating halves and slide the clamp over the formers.

[joecrouse]

For the smaller planes in the Guillows collections I find the simplest thing is the best.

A pair of 6 inch Reverse action tweezers, will hold your former's nice and Square, Providing the first side is already Square and true. (a single pair works best with the 500-700 series)

If you need a LONGER span (like on the Spirit of St Louis or the PBY Catalina or something) the simple solution is to put extender strips of scrap the length of where you need them to be and clamp them,
OR put a piece of scrap spanning the length on both sides of the wood and then use 2 or more sets of Reverse action tweezers to act as a clamp but with not enough grip to crush the wood as with a Hemostat.

You can pick up decent ones for SUPER cheap on Ali express. If you aren't sure what a reverse action tweezers is ask your GF or Wife she will have a pair in her Makeup kit OR sewing kit she will probably know what they are (If you steal hers I will not take responsibility for your being beaten to death by an angry spouse)