heat shrink covering

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heat shrink covering

Postby yasser » Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:31 pm

hello everyone I do RC flying
This is the first forum that I have ever joined so if I say or do somthing idotic then I am sorry in advance :D .

since there is no one in my country who built and fly guillows rubber powered kits but still available at hobby stores and I love them.

I hve built 4 gullows rubber powered like 16" wingspan but never flew because when it comes to tissue covering the stuff like dope and shrinking thing is not available but on the local hobby shop the Heat shrinking covering is available, so can I use that to cover my model? how do you shrink a tissue? what is pre shrinking? etc

Please answer asap
thankyou
I love flying and airplanes specially models airplanes that can fly and look real.
yasser
 
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Postby Xanadu » Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:50 pm

The heat shrink covering will not work on a Guillow's style model. It shrinks too much and will twist/warp, and crush the structure since it shrinks so much.

You do not need dope, etc for your tissue to shrink. Just use a mix of 50/50 of white glue and water to apply the tissue and then give it a light mist of water and the tissue will shrink on its own.
Search thru these forums as there is tons of info on how to do that.

These models are designed to be built with just the basic white glue which is available everywhere pretty much.
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Postby dbcisco » Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:58 pm

I've used coverlite (from coverite) heat shrink covering, both film and fabric succesfully on Guillows 20"WS models and the much flimsier GAR models.I like the coverlite film best it is light and easy to apply with the right tools.
Heavy coverings like regular coverite and monokote are for much bigger models.
A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
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Postby pjstrains » Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:54 am

Yasser

I built a Corsair 25 plus years ago and covered it with monokote. I still have it to this day hanging proudly in my shop.

It was built to fly electric, but static display won over.

Paul
Baton Rouge
Paul Imhoff
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Postby yasser » Thu Mar 18, 2010 3:13 pm

Thank you all for these tips and feedback so soon :D

Please Xanado tell me what does dope do? and can we make it at home?

dbcisco can you please up load some picture of your heat shrind flying models here please :)

once again thank you for the replys[/quote]
I love flying and airplanes specially models airplanes that can fly and look real.
yasser
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:02 am

Postby dbcisco » Thu Mar 18, 2010 3:30 pm

A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
dbcisco
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:34 am
Location: Lansdale, PA

Postby yasser » Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:42 pm

hmm man that is some fine job dbcisco
but it looks heavy if i am rignt :?
can you help me understand what dope is? and if not available in the marcket then can you make it at home? e.g chamical store etc

thanks
I love flying and airplanes specially models airplanes that can fly and look real.
yasser
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:02 am

Postby dbcisco » Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:58 pm

Nitrate Dope is used for to apply and seal your tissue covering... it seals the pores on covering tissue to model airplane wings, etc, and to give your model a better gloss. You brush the Nitrate on the wood surfaces, then apply the covering; it acts like a glue. After that has dried, you would trim off all the excess covering and then brush on several coats of Nitrate dope over the entire covered surfaces of the model. This "shrinks" and tightens the covering, removing all (or most all) of the wrinkles to make it very smooth. If you power the model with an electric or rubber motor, or never fly the model (static display), you need do nothing more.
A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
dbcisco
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:34 am
Location: Lansdale, PA

Postby dbcisco » Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:00 pm

Coverlite/Solite is a very light film covering.
A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
dbcisco
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:34 am
Location: Lansdale, PA

Postby Xanadu » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:30 pm

yasser wrote:Thank you all for these tips and feedback so soon :D

Please Xanado tell me what does dope do? and can we make it at home?

dbcisco can you please up load some picture of your heat shrind flying models here please :)

once again thank you for the replys
[/quote]

You can not make it at home as it would be pretty dangerous as its quite flammable.
But white glue does the same thing pretty much except for fuel proofing. For that you do need dope or something similar.

White glue is cheap, and easy to use. I would say to give that a try.
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Postby dbcisco » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:41 pm

Dope is highly flamable and the fumes can cause mental confusion and brain damage. Ventilation is a must! ...and a fire extinguisher should be in everyone's workshop. CA glue can cause migraines and other side effects in many people. A major component of CA glue is the poisone Cyanide.

White glue is made with milk and vinegar, so safe you can eat it.
A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
dbcisco
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:34 am
Location: Lansdale, PA

Postby yasser » Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:06 am

Hello everyone :D

Thanks dbcisco for the warning about dope, I am never bringing it to my house because of children. :roll:

Is there another safe way to do it like 50/50 ratio of white glue and water.
I already tried but got wrinkles.

How and where to apply the glue can anyone illustrate through pictures please.

best wishes
I love flying and airplanes specially models airplanes that can fly and look real.
yasser
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:02 am

Postby dbcisco » Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:28 am

I never could get the hang of using paper.
A bumblebee isn't supposed to fly but does.
My plane is supposed to fly but doesn't.
Balances out doesn't it : )
dbcisco
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:34 am
Location: Lansdale, PA

Postby Bean » Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:57 am

yasser wrote:Hello everyone :D

Thanks dbcisco for the warning about dope, I am never bringing it to my house because of children. :roll:

Is there another safe way to do it like 50/50 ratio of white glue and water.
I already tried but got wrinkles.

How and where to apply the glue can anyone illustrate through pictures please.

best wishes


IMO dope is really not a problem to have around. I have 3 kids, all young. It deserves respect just like other tools and materials you might use for building...blades, saws, CA, LiPo batteries, Acetone, Paint thinner...not to mention a spinning prop! There are lots of things that you should be aware of how to handle, what not to use in combination (for example, CA is generally very safe, but can react with cotton (balls, swabs)) and dangers they pose.

That being said I have tried several different things over the years. I am just now getting into microlite heat shrink covering.

For tissue, there are probably as many different methods as there are builders...experiment a little and you'll find what works for you. Your method will change if you you decide to fly the model or not. Follow the diagrams on the Guillow plans for how to cut the tissue pieces. This will help a lot to reduce wrinkles.

I do not, and never have, cover the stick frame with any kind of sealer, sanding sealer, or dope prior to applying paper. Maybe I will one day, and notice a difference. I know the reason for doing it, just never have...

My favorite method for applying tissue is with a glue stick. I use an elmer's gel glue stick, you can find these anywhere. I'll apply some of that to a few spars/ribs/formers then put my tissue on, being sure to gently pull it tight. Then I'll put more glue stick on adjacent spars and pull the tissue tight to those...do this until the piece of tissue is on. Let dry then trim if needed (some tissue pieces I cut to fit before applying).

Once all the tissue is on, I'll use a 50/50 (clear) dope & thinner mix on the outside edges of the part to make sure it's tacked down good. (so for example a wing I just go around the outside LE & TE and brush on the dope mix). Let this dry, then I spray with water. Some folks use alcohol for this step, or a mix of alcohol and water. This will take some time to dry, when it does the tissue will be nicely shrunk.

This is the point where my method chages depending on what my plan is with the plane. If I am flying, I put 1 or 2 coats of the 50/50 dope mix on the entire plane, then 2 coats colored dope. Yes, that's all I do...somtimes less. You need to think weight with a flying model so you have to be careful how much your covering is going to add. (I fly electric)
After this dries you'll notice the tissue is nice and strong (for tissue anyway), and tight as a drum. Now apply decals.

For a static model, you can pretty much do whatever you like. I have heard people use everything from generic acrylic paints, model paints, and even home latix paint...and of course, colored dopes (which are probably the most expensive choice).

Microlite and Coverlite heat shrunk coverings are nice, strong, and are perfectly fine to use on Guillow models. They cost more (I mean, the tissue you got with the kit, right?), but in the end can actually weigh less. They give you a nice shiny look, which may or may not be what you're after. For some of the warbirds, you may want a more faded or matte finish, in which case you'd need to paint. As I understand it, the micro/coverlite materials need some prep to be painted. If someone could advise to this, I would be interested to hear your method.

There's some other things I'm going to be experimenting with (soon) and would love to hear if anyone else has used (succes stories?):

- krylon clear spray, or Rustoleaum spray can.

- Future Floor Finish as an alternative to dope. Yes, you heard me right. Here's the link because I keep losing it. I'm going to be trying this soon:
http://www.zininmijnleven.nl/hobby/mode ... index.html

- WB PolyCrylic (MinWax) as an alternative to dope.

- Using Sanding Sealer (Deft brand) for sealign teh stick frame.

My main focus on these things is the benefits vs. weight difference between these and more traditional methods/materials...and also the "look". Any experiences anyone has I'm all ears. :)

Cost is a factor for me. I mean, clear dope is expensive :x ...and I'm always looking for alternatives...
Bean
 
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