Options for covering.

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Options for covering.

Postby johnwohl » Sat Aug 14, 2010 10:44 pm

So far the only covering i've done is using a dry application with gluestick, initial shrink with alcohol/water, several coats of white glue/water for final shrink and strength, then paint.

I've got a can of krylon crystal clear and a container of future floor finish. Where do these enter into the process?

How does one apply the floor stuff? Do I preshrink like with the glue/water so it doesn't sag?

Do I want to paint right on the floor wax finished tissue and then krylon, then decals, then more krylon? Do I have that right?
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Postby kittyfritters » Mon Aug 16, 2010 12:51 pm

If you have several coats of white glue/water on the tissue you are ready to paint. White glue and water is heavy so I assume that you are making a static model. You can use acrylics to paint the model. There is a load of water in the acrylics so you can expect sag, but the covering will tighten right back up when dry.

The whole point of using these products is to avoid the odor and toxicity of dope when fixing the tissue after shrinking with water or alcohol. Krylon Crystal Clear (#1303, gloss or #1311, matte) and the Future floor finish are used to fix the tissue in place of dope or the white glue/water mixture. With the Krylon, mist on two or three light coats from about 15 inches away. The tissue will sag briefly, after each coat, but tighten back up in a few minutes. You can paint with acrylics over Krylon. You can paint acrylics over dope. You cannot paint with dope over acrylics. Krylon is water resistant, not waterproof, so you will have to wait until the dew lifts in the morning before flying.

Krylon is also used for fixing and de-glossing decals or "tissuecals". It is an acrylic fixative meant for artwork so just spray on the decals as per the directions on the can.

Future floor finish is also used to fix the tissue in place of dope. It is also an acrylic fixative, but since it is meant to protect floors it is tougher than Krylon and very nearly as waterproof as dope. It must be handled carefully to avoid adding too much weight. The people who I have seen use it most successfully have been thinning it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with an open mix air brush. You can paint over it with acrylic paints.

If you are building a seaplane or flying boat that will actually be operated off water, use dope.

Does that clear it up?
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Krylon Clear-Satin Finish

Postby lukebozek1 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:12 am

I had some problems with this on a canopy this weekend. It looked like the canopy was "frosted" and I spent some time and energy to "clear things up." I don't know if it was the Satin variation of the clear spray, or inadequate mixing. I did shake the daylights out of it for about 3 minutes.I also noticed that it bibbled a few decals, some were perfect and some were not perfect.
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Postby kittyfritters » Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:51 pm

WHY did you spray it on a canopy?
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Flat finish

Postby lukebozek1 » Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:57 am

In the past, I have used a flat clear coat to cover the entire plane. I used to think it helped keep everything from chipping or falling away. I won't do that again. I know it helps seal the decals otherwise in the humidity down here it would just be a matter of time before they all peeled off. Learning from my mistakes.
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