New to Building Guillow's Models

[Scott67]

I started my first Guillow's kit, a German Stuka. I am still cutting out my pieces and I find that I have a problem. Most parts I cut out tend to split the blasa wood so I end up gluing nearly every piece being cut out. I am using an Exacto knife #11 and when cutting in certain direction or along the grain of the wood it usually splits in a spot I do not wish to be a split so I end up use CA glue for nearly every piece. Any advise on building Balsa kits would be great. I am starting with Guillow Balsa kits to practice in order to build some big kits for RC flying.

[cliffm]

My experience has shown that the X-acto blades are a little to thick for the cutting out of the parts you mentioned. For best results I use a single edged razor blade. I know your fingers will be sore after a couple of sheets so I found a thimble in the wifes sewing kit which takes care of the problem. I have gotten a guillow's kit (or2) that no matter what you did the stringer notches crumbled so to the glue pot I would go and put the little pieces back on, just lay them on a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap and glue away. Some of them are almost impossible to fix so after assembly I go back and patch things up so it doesn't affect the looks when the covering is applied. Good luck.

[Scott67]

Thank you. I am sure when I start building I will have more questions. Actually I am thinking of one now, on the model, the notches for the stringers shown a little slit that measures 3/32" but the direction say it should be 1/16". The first few forums I was cutting them the width of the slit started? I was just wondering if anyone else wondered about this and how do you accurately cut so the stringers will match up correctly? Also, on one former there is a piece that has a dashed line but no explanation of what it means. Are ideas on whether it means cut off or keep?

[cliffm]

Usually a dotted or slashed line is where it is bent to conform to the plans. I found a lot of questions that I put on the form when I first got back into building were answered in the building pamphlets in the kits.

[supercruiser]

The formers splitting is a common problem. Cliffm suggestion is a good one.

A couple of other things that might help. Gluing a piece of tissue over the balsa before you cut helps a little. The tissue gives it some resistance to splitting.

Also, for the stringer notches: I don't even cut them out anymore, I use a sanding notcher. It's really hard to explain but a simple tool that you can make easily. I can't post pictures so here goes the explanation:
You take a piece of your 1/16 square stringer material, cut it about 2 inches long.
glue the stringer to a piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I use CA glue.
Then you cut away the excess sandpaper from around the stringer.
On the side of the stringer opposite of the sandpaper side, glue a piece of balsa, 2 inches long and about 1/4 inch wide.
Now, all you do is rub the sandpaper side of the stringer back and forth where your notch is supposed to be in the former.
The sandpaper will "eat" away the balsa until it gets down to when your
1/4 wide top piece contacts the former.
Your notch is done.
Does that make sense?

[supercruiser]

This is a video of a fancy notcher made from aluminum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKxvrIZGtuI
You can get one from www.shortysbasement.com

[Bean]

I use Xacto...key is to take it slow, and use sharp blades. I have read some folks change out the blade every few pieces, I do once a sheet. Buy a bulk lot of blades so you have plenty.

I have heard people sharpen their blades...I wonder if it's worth the effort...? And is there a commercial sharpening tool that can be bought?...Hhhmmmm....

For me, slow is the key. Each cut takes half a dozen slices. You can also sand the back of the sheets to make it easier. I just recently acquired a Scroll Saw on Craigs list for $50. It's 10 years old but hardly used. I cleaned it up and have already used it on my current build...I might try it on my next build versus Xacto...