elkhart wrote:I used tissue on the cowl to match the color of the fuselage, and as part of the "artistic" goals of the build. I wanted this build to be stick and tissue- no paint. The tissue was applied with thinned Elmer's Glue All. With the compound curves the tissue has to applied in several pieces. A 2D graphic of a radial engine was added to finish it off.
Balsa Pilot wrote:...Howard says he's seen the Hellcat do 50 seconds, and if that isn't optimistic? ...
elkhart wrote:All comments and critiques are welcome, I'm here to share and improve my builds. It's good to know about the photosensitive nature of that tissue. The krylon is supposed to offer some UV protection. We shall see. What kind of rubber are you using in the 500's? I have some 1/8" from EZ Built, will that work? I rarely hear a kind word about the blue kit rubber, but has anyone broken it in and lubed it?
kittyfritters wrote:elkhart wrote:All comments and critiques are welcome, I'm here to share and improve my builds. It's good to know about the photosensitive nature of that tissue. The krylon is supposed to offer some UV protection. We shall see. What kind of rubber are you using in the 500's? I have some 1/8" from EZ Built, will that work? I rarely hear a kind word about the blue kit rubber, but has anyone broken it in and lubed it?
Yes, if you used Krylon #1305, labeled UV Resistant, (The older #1305 wasn't) it should give some protection.
From the quality of your build I can't believe you sound like you are that new to this. That blue, industrial rubber band has way too much torque. The only thing it is good for in modeling is tying to a stick to launch catapult gliders. If your Hellcat weighs less than 25 grams I would start with a loop of 1/8" F.A.I. Tan Sport rubber about 1-1/2 times the hook to peg length. If it weighs more than that I would go with a double loop of 1/8" flat.
I usually lube with Armor All either Classic or Detailers Advantage. A good automotive silicon lube and rubber protectant spray will work also. Work it in well, I usually put the rubber in a baggy, pour or spray in the lube, and work it around. Wipe it nearly dry with a rag before installing it in the model. Both these lubes work when nearly dry. Good old glycerine and green soap still works, but it gets all over the inside of the model and can soak through the tissue and even the balsa. Keep the number of winds low until you get it trimmed, then work up. When you get it really wound up, if there is any breeze launch a few degrees to the right of the oncoming wind. The model will want to turn left and this gives you altitude to burn off the high torque when the rubber is fully wound. (Fully wound for sport flying is about 75 turns per inch on a single loop, maybe 55 on a double loop. You're not pushing it for a contest.) Check the rubber after every flight to make sure it is not tearing. You should be able to do this without taking it out of the model. If you see any signs of tearing replace it.
Hope this helps,
Howard
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