Decal Adhesion Problem SE 5 (Kit 202)

[George Daddis]

I'm ready for assembly of my SE5 (kit 202) that I covered with colored tissue and oversprayed with Krylon acrylic MAXX.
The problem is some of the decals did not stick on the wings and rudder. (The fuselage decals DID adhere; I MAY have sprayed fewer coats of acrylic there.) I used MicroSet for help with adhesion. (See picture below)

My planned "fix" is to cut out the decal and tissue from those areas and start from scratch. But I don't want to make the same mistake twice.

- Did I use the wrong spray?
- Should I brush on Nitrate Dope instead of the acrylic spray over the repaired areas before applying new decals?
- Can I spray the acrylic on top of the new decals?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

SE5 decal problem.jpg

[kittyfritters]

Yes, decals are a problem over Krylon. Krylon fixative is water-resistant, not waterproof. The tissue will wrinkle under a wet decal and tighten back up after it drys popping the decal off. Usually, if the decal sticks so do the wrinkles. This is the only real problem I have with using Krylon. If I were going to make a model seaplane that actually was going in the water I would use nitrate dope.

I've solved the decal problem by; 1. printing my "decals" on tissue and adhering them with glue stick, 2. pre-printing all markings on colored tissue with waterproof ink and covering the model with that tissue, 3. masking the model and airbrushing the markings on.

Good Luck with your SE5!

Howard
(kittyfritters)

[Bis]

I presume I will have the same problem with Krylon Colormaster paint+primer spray paint? I am just finishing by Bird Dog and about to add decals. Any suggestions besides printing my own decals ?

[kittyfritters]

I presume I will have the same problem with Krylon Colormaster paint+primer spray paint? I am just finishing by Bird Dog and about to add decals. Any suggestions besides printing my own decals ?

Probably not. Krylon Colormaster is suggested for outdoor projects and, apparently, is waterproof.

kittyfritters

[Bis]

Thanks kitttfritters, I was about to go into panic mode.

[scigs30]

Yes, the Guillows decals do not like sticking to tissue, peel and stick would be better. Now here are 2 tricks that I use. 1. Spray the decal with Testors Glosscote with a couple of coats to protect the decal. Then cut the decal out and put in water until the decal comes off the backing. Use a glue stick on the backside of the decal and place on the model. If you do not seal with Glosscote the decal will fall apart when removed from the backing and the glue stick is applies. The other trick is to use Eze Dope on the model, then there is no issues with waterslide decals and they go on with no issues. Here is my Chipmunk with Eze Dope and supplied decals.

[Bis]

Scigs30, I was going to try ezedope on my next bird. I have read that you are supposed to thin the ezedope to 30% dope and 70% water. Is that what you did and if so how many coats did you put on? Also can you add acrylic paint to the mix for color?

[scigs30]

Yes that is what I did and it works great. Please practice before using it on a build. Peter Rake did a great write up on using Eze Dope at RCgroups forum, read that first. Read the entire thread to find out how to use Eze Dope.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... d%29/page3

[Bis]

Thanks for the info, I've got some reading to do

[Johnny ace]

For what it's worth,I've had success using Elmer's white glue under the wet decal on plastic models,especially on old decals.wash off the excess glue after the decal is dry with water.

[George Daddis]

Thanks for ALL of the replies; it feels like I'm back in school again! (How come 50 years ago, my ignorance never bothered me; I just plowed forward. )

Howard, the idea of printed tissue was a revelation; but I will have to practice the technique. The printing came out well on plain paper (from a new decal sheet from Guillow's) but was blurred on the "high spots" on tissue that I tacked down to a plain paper carrier with double sided tape on the edges. (I'm thinking of trying to use an iron to remove the fold ridges in the tissue, and more tape.)
If the plain paper works, the next step would be to over spray with the Krylon. These insignias are both on flat surfaces.

Speaking of the Krylon, it is clear that its tendency to be "water repellent" is a deterrent to both the slide off decals and to water based glues.

Scigs 30, I'm awaiting delivery of EZdope; which I will use on my next model* - an 800 series Sopworth- not laser cut. My plan is to coat the die cut sheets with Nitrate Dope before razoring them out. (I still remember when die cutting was an advance; before then you followed the printed outline with your Exacto knife.)

(* NOTE: Years ago, I treated balsa models like crossword puzzles; built them and then stored them away or disposed of them like yesterday's NY Times puzzle. [Of course my Guillows models cost less than a quarter then.] However, the last 3 models since my renewed interest in the hobby [Spitfire, SE-5 and Sopworth] are practice for the Wright Flier which will for a time reside in my office but eventually will be sent to a yet to be named grandson/daughter or grandnephew/niece who appreciates history as well as the work that goes into models. The great news is that I have are several candidates!)

[Bwoody]

Hello all,
This is my first post so bear with me. I have solved this problem in the following ways. I am also new to the hobby. Just a few planes under my belt. Also, my planes are all for display.
1. Print the image on regular computer paper. Cut this out and apply with Uhu glue. I think this works great.
2. You can try printing on sticker paper but this also has some adhesion problems. It works best on flat surfaces.
3. I have found that using a sheet vinyl such as Oracal works great for letters and numerals.
Note: I do use a Cricut machine to cut these decals. But a steady hand would also work.
4. I have also used an online service that will print and cut your decals (peel and stick). Works great but maybe a bit pricy.

[scigs30]

Guillows decals work just fine, but do need a little love. First spray the decal sheet with Testors Glosscoat, let dry. Soak decal in warm water until it releases. Brush a thin coat of Elmers white glue or Eze Dope to where the decal is to be placed, place decal. Let dry for 24 hours. Also an old school trick is to brush thinned Dope over the decal for a painted on look. This will dull the glossy decal but should snug it down. You are only going to brush the dope on with one swipe or else the ink will run.