Adhesives for acetate windows

[Ken]

Hello, I'm nearing the completion of my Supercub, and I was wondering what adhesive I should use for attaching the supplied acetate window material. (I'm guessing CA)
Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Ken

[Xanadu]

Canopy glue, not CA.

CA has a reaction to some plastics, styrenes, etc. Caues them to "fog"

[supercruiser]

I have used white glue. It will hold if the window is not flexed or forced to conform to the required shape. I've seen other people use something called pva.??? Take a look at mike stuart's free flight site. don't know the link.

[cdwheatley]

As far as I'm aware, 'white glue' and PVA are one and the same thing. Mike Stuart's excellent site is here http://www.ffscale.co.uk/index.htm.

[John G. Jedinak]

Plain ole Testors glue for PLASTICS models always works for me. First put a light coat of balsa glue on the model where the canopy fits...let it dry, then apply a light coat of the Testor Plastics glue where the canopy fits and you should be home free....maybe a little touch paint may be required. Luck, JGJ

[Flyguy172]

Soon I to will be at this stage of building and I wanted to know which glue to use. So I built a test piece with scrap balsa and tissue to test a few glues. Using scrap celluloid (window material) and styrene (the white plastic used for the cowl and other things) I tested 3 types of glue, Testors wood cement, Testors plastic cement, and cyanoacrylate glue (CA). Testors wood cement? Nope, just pops off. CA glue? It holds the styrene well but as mentioned before, it leaves an unsightly “fog” on the celluloid. Next up is Testors plastic cement. It holds the styrene quite well but caution, put too much on and it will soften the cowl and may crumple. And then, hay we have a positive result with the celluloid. It holds it but not as much as I would like it to. Let’s try that one again but this time I’m going to scour about 1 to 2 millimeters from the edge with the point of my X-acto knife. Wow, that holds very well and I don’t see the scours since they’re so close to the edge. Then do that combined with John G. Jedinak’s method

Plain ole Testors glue for PLASTICS models always works for me. First put a light coat of balsa glue on the model where the canopy fits...let it dry, then apply a light coat of the Testor Plastics glue where the canopy fits and you should be home free....maybe a little touch paint may be required. Luck, JGJ

and I’m sure it will hold very well. Oh and which model are you building? I know that some models come with just a sheet of clear plastic and others come with molded canopies. Though I’m sure the plastic is the same, maybe.
Hope this helped.

[Xanadu]

Here is a link to the canopy glue I use. It works very well for exactlywhat you need. You can purchase it at most hobby stores.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX70

[Ken]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll try the Testors styrene glue with some scrap first (since I already have some). If that doesn't work I'll go guy some canopy glue.

Cheers,

Ken

[dpcmodels]

[i]You can get excellent results if you use a very thin bead of window and door clear silicone. It can be purchased in any building supply store. one small tube ( about 2.5 oz) will last a life time.

The advantages are it dries clear, will not ever fog, sticks to any painted or unpainted surface and has a heck of a bond. You don't have to worry about canopies popping off if in the event of a hard landing.

I would use it in small amounts as a little goes a long way. The extra weight factor is almost next to none if applied correctly. Try it and you'll never again use anything else.[/i]

Dpc

[gpatom5612]

found a glue at hobby lobby called testors clear parts cement and window maker. comes in an odly shaped contaner with the spout at a 45 degree angle. works great. dries clear set fast. excellent. product
Tom

[prototypesplus]

Thats good to hear about the Testors Clear parts cement. I just got some but have not used it yet.