paint?

[cowboydfk]

Hello everyone, new to the fourms here. I have a question about what kinda paint you guys are using over your models and what kind can be used over dope? I am building a messerschmitt bf-109 I was thinking about using Tamiya water base paint (would this be ok over dope?) Thanks and any other tips on completing the 109 would be appreciated.

[Xanadu]

David Duckett got me hooked on water based acyrlics, and they work great, and are cheap!
I buy mine at a local buck store.........come in a huge variety of colors, plus you can mix your colors as well.

[Xanadu]

Check out this posting, it will be of great value to you.

http://balsamodels.com/phpBB/viewtopic. ... ight=paint

[John G. Jedinak]

Xanadu has it right. I, too, via Dave Duckett, used the acrylic for the first just recently. Takes several coats, but sure beats the smell and clean-up of the dopes. Suggest, the next time around, consider Elmers white glue mixed with 50% water, as a replacement for the dope sealer. Works great both sealng the balsa wood, as well as, the tissue....Luck, JGJ

[Xanadu]

Yes, you can use the acylics over the dope sealer aready put on, it will be fine.

[cowboydfk]

Thanks to all, and I will let you know how my build is going. Mabe some pic's when completed

[kittyfritters]

I've been using both acrylic paint (Testor's Acryl and Tamaya) and acrylic artist's ink.

The Acryl and Tamaya paints have a great variety of colors available including historically accurate military camouflage colors. The ink is more expensive but the bottles are a lot larger. The colors in the ink are more intense and it will go on lighter, but practice on something first, the spraying technique is a little different than paint. There are several good books on airbursh technique for models (from the plastic model crowd) available.

Both paint and ink work over dope or Krylon. There is no dope smell and you clean up with water, but I made a small spray booth out of cardboard with a small furnace filter and muffen fan at the back for exhaust just to keep the overspray down in the garage.

You can spray either with an inexpensive Testor's airbush. Do yourself a favor and get a compressor. If you have to use a CO2 can, put it in a pan of water, room temperature, NOT HOT, to keep the pressure evein while you spray.

Both paint and ink carry a large load of water, although you can reduce it somewhat by thinning the paint with rubbing alcohol. Do not thin the ink, however you can use a drop of surface tension breaker to maker sure that the color is evenly distributed on the surface. Use a water filter in the air line, if you have a compressor, you don't need any more water.

Spray the lightest color first. The tissue will sag (Very scary the first time you do it.) but will be tight the next morning. Mask and spray succeeding, darker, colors allowing over night dry between colors. (Unless you are working on a 100 degree (F) plus, 10 percent humidity, California day.) I use photo friskit, available at art supply stores, for masking. Be careful to mask over previously sprayed colors well. The sagging effect from the water will cause 'sprayed on wrinkles" from the overspray of the succeeding colors if any gets under the masking.

Sounds like a lot of trouble but it's less than you think and the results are far better and lighter than you will ever get with a brush.

Try it!

Howard